Rescuing 1983 Elektra Microcasa a Leva

[Bob Barraza]

(split from My new Elektra Microcasa a Leva by moderator...)

Karl,

Since you just purchased your machine I assume that you have a manual with it. I recently bought an abused Micro Casa a Leva manufactured in 1983. I have not made anything worth drinking yet because I am systematically going through the machine and finding problems. It almost feels like a rescue program.

When I pulled the piston I was amazed to find the bottom of the piston and the screen mostly covered in grease! Along with that, there was some corrosion on the side of the piston and the group cylinder wall. Although the gaskets look OK, I have ordered a new set. My question is: how does one remove and replace the gaskets?

The location of the grease made me think that the machine was left on for an extended period of time, and/or it is running excessively hot. There are also signs of deformation on the bakelite water fill knob. I have had to make a gross adjustment to the p-stat to get it to read below 1.5 bar.

I'm not really sure of what the pressure is since the gauge is very dodgy. I will be substituting another gauge for the final adjustments, but at least the safety pressure release valve no long spits and sputters.

The machine is so simple in it's design and construction that I am confident that no permanent damage has been done. Now if I can find out how to replace the gaskets, I'm optimistic that it will all have been worth while.

Bob

[HB]

I've never repaired my Microcasa, but Steve's Refeathering the Peacock - Pavoni head gasket replacement shows the general steps that should apply. Coupled with his close-up pictures in Elektra/Pavoni side by side, you've got a pretty good idea what's in store. Steve's out of town at the moment but I asked his opinion, seeing that he's replaced gaskets like it a few times. He says he doubts you'll even need a screwdriver. Cut the old gaskets off, apply some light lubricant to the new gaskets, then slip them over the piston (assuring that they are in the correct orientation as shown in his pictures).

PS: Would you post some pictures of your new find?

[coffeefrog]

Bob,
Some random thoughts after living with an Elektra ever since sometime about 1983.

Was the bakelite knob kind of flat? After a couple of decades the pressure release in mine had worn and had to be replaced. It developed a tendency to spit and hiss at random moments. The new ones are a different shape, taller.

You might find that the grease is actually coffee residue (if its black and very thick and only kind of greasy). I periodically pull the shower screen out of mine and wash it.

The pressure gauge in mine (original) now reads about 0.7bar cold (its been slowly going up for years) but still only reads about 1.5 when hot.

The bit that has changed over the decades is the spring and piston. The new springs are shorter (or is it longer?), a different length anyway, and so is the piston to compensate. If you need a new spring that may tend to be a drama, and might require a new piston to go with it. Still worth the investment, the parts aren't too expensive.

Greg

[cremacafe]

Follow Dan's links above, and that'll help tons. I just replaced the seals on my piston (Elektra MCL) about a month ago. All it takes is:

1- make sure the machine is cool
2- take the two allen bolts out of the top of the group
3- Gently lift the piston/lever assembly out of the cylinder
4- take the opportunity to push out your dispersion screen and give it a good cleaning
5- Clean the gunk off of the piston
6- either cut, or simply pry off the old seals
7- slowly work the new seals into their new homes
8- re-insert the piston assembly into the cylinder
9- put your bolts in and your done.

DO NOT remove the lever/spring if all you want to do is change seals. I did this the first time and had to use wood clamps to put enough pressure on the spring to get it back together. whew.

That's it. Just be careful when installing the piston again since your new seals will be a bit larger (due to wear) than your old ones. I think the most time consuming part for me was re-inserting the piston into the cylinder since I didn't want to damage the new seals. My machine works like a champ again.

Good luck with the refurb.

[KarlSchneider]

Karl,

Since you just purchased your machine I assume that you have a manual with it. I recently bought an abused Micro Casa a Leva manufactured in 1983. I have not made anything worth drinking yet because I am systematically going through the machine and finding problems. It almost feels like a rescue program.

Bob

Hi Bob,

I just got back in town after a trip to Asheville. I do have a manual but it will not do you any good. It is the classic Italian minimalist text for these occasions. I guess we are supposed to know everything already.

Good luck. Sounds like a very worthwhile project.

KS

[Bob Barraza]

Time for an update...

I ordered the gasket kit and it went fairly well, thanks to the advice and encouragement here. Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, it did not solve the problem. As a matter of fact, it made the piston travel restricted and it would hang up about 2/3 of the way down. Even without coffee or water!

I decided to try some Plumber's Silicone Grease by Gunk. I pulled the piston and took the opportunity to polish the group inside walls with a Scotch Brite pad to get a smooth finish. I applied a light coat of grease to the group and a bit in the V-groove of the lower gasket. This worked nicely when dry and cold, but the piston still hangs when pulling a shot.

This past Friday I took the machine to our local Coffee Geek meeting since Dan Kehn was going to be there. Dan had just spent two weeks with his Elektra while on vacation. Dan didn't get a chance to pull shots, but he immediately noted that the spring tension on the lever was significantly less than on his machine.

When I 'balance' the machine on my bathroom scale (off center so that I can still read the dial), it has a dead weight of 18 lbs. As I lower the lever to a horizontal position it reaches 30 lbs, and maximizes out at 35 lbs. Twelve to seventeen pounds of force seems to explain why the piston was binding even without a portafilter in place.

It appears as if the spring has lost its sprung. Any ideas?

I was wondering if it would make any difference if the spring were removed, heated in the relaxed mode and then allowed to cool. Would this reverse the 'memory' effect of 22 years in the semi-compressed mode?

Hoping to earn a LMWDP registration.

Bob

[HB]

When I 'balance' the machine on my bathroom scale (off center so that I can still read the dial), it has a dead weight of 18 lbs. As I lower the lever to a horizontal position it reaches 30 lbs, and maximizes out at 35 lbs.

Interesting, I just tried the same experiment. My Microcasa weighs 18.5 pounds and the reading when the lever is held parallel to the floor is 42 pounds, or about 20 percent more than yours. Steve and I were discussing your machine last Friday. Inexplicable as it seems, he thinks your machine was stored with the spring compressed. Sorry, I doubt that you can reinvigorate a spring into feeling more springy.

[cannonfodder]

I seriously doubt you can rejuvenate that spring. Once they have been worn out you need to replace it. Heating and stretching it back to it normal length will probably have limited effects and what you get would be short lived. You burn the temper out the steel when you cook it like that and it will recompress even worse than it was before. As far as lube, be careful what you use. Make sure you use a food safe lube and use it sparingly.

[srobinson]

Bob, thanks for posting some more on this baby. Dan said he got a look at it Friday and it may be that the spring is sprung. I am sure that the gasket replacement will be a worthy investment once you have this baby humming. Go ahead and get you a new spring...sounds like that is the missing piece to the puzzle.

Then you can proudly wear LMWDP #0021 in your posts as you put it in.

[coffeefrog]

Bob,
I had the spring in mine die too. You will find that the new Elektra springs are a different length to the 1983 springs (see earlier comment). My local Elektra distributor spent ages trying to get one of the right length and tension for my machine and eventually had to get the current piston to go with the current spring.

My machine looks MUCH more horrible than yours. Have you refinished yours or was it in that condition when you got it?

Greg

[cannonfodder]

My machinist finished turning and tapping the inserts for my soon to be, newly turned handles for my lever machine. I may get them turned and mounted by the end of the week. It's not an Elektra, I am not that fortunate, but at least it is a lever. I will toss up a photo when I have it finished.

[Bob Barraza]

I had the spring in mine die too. You will find that the new Elektra springs are a different length to the 1983 springs (see earlier comment). My local Elektra distributor spent ages trying to get one of the right length and tension for my machine and eventually had to get the current piston to go with the current spring.

I checked with 1st-line and they said that the new springs cost $20 plus shipping. However, Jim confirmed that it would not fit my 1983 machine. He is going to check on the cost of the newer piston so that I can use the new spring.

My machine looks MUCH more horrible than yours. Have you refinished yours or was it in that condition when you got it?

It looked much worse than what you see in this photo, but it just took a lot of elbow grease and common household cleaners. I think that the machine has had very little use, basically a lot of neglect.

Do you remember who you ordered the piston/spring from and what the cost was?

Bob

[coffeefrog]

Bob,
I am in Australia and the Australian Elektra distributor's warehouse is 5 minutes walk from home (Mocha Coffee or Elektra Australia). The spring, piston and seals cost somewhere about AUD150 all-up, but the price won't be comparable with US prices.

No amount of elbow grease would get my machine looking that good. Mine looks like a prop left over from a Mad Max movie these days. I'm not sure whether its nickel or stainless steel under the copper on the base but lots of the copper coating is gone.

Greg

[srobinson]

You can always have them replated. I have about every shiny metal part on the Olympia I am rebuilding out for plating or buffing. Not really that bad.

[coffeefrog]

You can always have them replated. I have about every shiny metal part on the Olympia I am rebuilding out for plating or buffing. Not really that bad.

Gasp... no coffee machine in the morning? Do platers make housecalls? Do they have "visiting hours"? After I buy an A3 I'll try getting the old one reconditioned.

[srobinson]

I think purchasing an A3 is a worthy and economical solution in order to get a lever machine back in shape.....(or at least that is how I would try to justify it)

[coffeefrog]

I think purchasing an A3 is a worthy and economical solution in order to get a lever machine back in shape.....(or at least that is how I would try to justify it)

Actually the deal here is: Mercedes A160 or BMW X5, then Elektra A3. My wife bargains hard. For me, an A160 is a worthy and economical way of getting an A3.