Removing Super Jolly lower burr carrier - Page 2

[dsc]

Hi everyone,

first of all thanks for the great advice on removing the bottom burr carrier. I'm currently working on a used 15-20 year old Mazzer Major and was really struggling yesterday to get that damn carrier out. Finally I left it and moved onto removing various other elements.

After reading the last replies I'm a bit worried I won't be able to place the carrier back properly. Is it really that hard? some pictures would be lovely:)

Oh and by the way, has anyone completely disassembled the doser? I removed the arms and other 'easy to remove' parts but I'm left with a rack mechanism under the doser (which is totally covered in grease) and a long bolt inside the doser. There's a nut holding the rack in place and a small pin stuck in it. I'm pretty sure I will be able to completely disassemble the doser after removing the pin, but it's sitting in a bit tight.

Cheers,
dsc.

[IronBarista]

BTW, the bolts are M4. I used some and they worked great. It took a bit and I thought I was going to strip out the threads but it came out. Cleaned the poop out of it.

To put the carrier back on, I just lined it up with pin on the motor shaft and used the bolt to snug it down. It was aligned properly because the zero point didn't change.

To take the lower star out of the doser, you need a small punch and a hammer. It'll come out with a few hits. Clean everything and put a light layer of grease on the moving parts (only on the bottom of the doser). Sorry but I don't have any pictures.

[blu]

hello,
for disassembling a mazzer doser look at the pictures in the german board:
http://www.kaffee-netz.de/reparatur-und-wartung/18436-mazzer-mini-dosierer-zerlegen-und-reinigen-teil-1-a.html
cari saluti blu

[dsc]

Hi guys,

thanks for your help, I did manage to remove the bottom burr carrier, but I did 'scar' the bottom of the burr chamber a bit. Still it was worth it.

Blu, I was curious about this photo:

http://up.picr.de/868531.jpg

I understand I need to remove the black pin, to unscrew the nut?

Cheers,
dsc.

[HB]

I understand I need to remove the black pin, to unscrew the nut?

Correct. Gently tap the pin down, remove the bolt, and then you can easily remove the pin from the other side with a pair of pliers.

[dsc]

Hi Dan,

thanks for the tip. I did tap the pin down but I cannot unscrew that damn nut. It has to be really old or tightened very hard, because I broke one of the 'arms' on the star shaped element inside the doser when I jammed something hard to stop the whole thing from spinning.

Cheers,
dsc.

[HB]

It has to be really old or tightened very hard, because I broke one of the 'arms' on the star shaped element inside the doser when I jammed something hard to stop the whole thing from spinning.

Sorry, forgot to warn you... the doser arm is made of aluminum and breaks easily (don't ask me how I know ). I use a pair of channel locks to hold the ratchet gear immobile while turning the nut.

PS: For those following this thread, also see Ian's Warning about grinder burr / carrier removal.

[zubinpatrick]

just going to chime in here as I did this last week. The top carrier I pried out using the curved section of a plier handle through the coffee chute ( need to remove doser) keep rotating and prying ie., don't just pry one edge that will just jamb it.
lower carrier is easy using 2 bolts through the machine holes.
roll pin must be removed before the shaft will slide out of the upper bearing.
I used a wood dowel and hammer to drive the upper shaft out of the housing/bearing. I also used a wood drift to get the upper bearing out.
I had neither the time or patience to use pullers/presses so I used hammers and sockets/wrenched to take off the lower bearing from the shaft.
I reinstalled all bearings by using temp difference (oven and freezer) to shrink /expand press fit surfaces, they then require very little force to install, drove them in with wood rigs....
main shaft is very tough, as long as you apply force parallel to the shaft you should be fine.

[dsc]

Hi

thanks for the tips.

I did finally managed to remove that nut and disassemble the whole doser. Maaaan it was dirty as hell, if you haven't cleaned yours have a look at what it looks like:



In the end I ended up jamming a screw in between the ratchet gear and the doser output hole and almost hanging myself on the wrench to unscrew the bolt. Wasn't easy but I'm glad I did it.

Cheers,
dsc.

[LGB]

Hello,

I recently bought an old Mazzer Major from ebay. Currently breaking it down to clean it, but I can't get the inbus bolt on top of the lower burr carrier to move.

How did you get it off? Do I need to turn counterclockwise to unlock or is the thread reversed? And what did you do to stop the burr carrier from spinning?

Regards

[zubinpatrick]

re the bottom bearing holder(plate) there are 2 machine screw holes in the bearing carrier I believe the bolts that hold the lower burr are the same size, if they are long enough you can use them to drive the bearing out, I think I just used them to use as a size ref., and got longer ones from the store (metris). you screw them in the holes of the bearing holder and they press the bearing out.

[LGB]

But to do so I would first have to remove the inbus bolt on top of the burr carrier, right? I cannot get the damn thing to move, probbably it's been sitting there getting tighter for many years now...

[LGB]

Bumb!

Does anyone know if the inbus bold on top of the lower burr carrier of the Mazzer Major unlocks CW of CCW? I'm anxious to try it, making it tighter isn't going to help me

I'm guessing CW, but if someone could comfirm this?

[LGB]

Bumb!!!

I'm sorry, still no luck. Is it supposed to be this tight? I blocked the carrier via the chute and almost jammed the inbus tool right through my hand.

[HB]

Retaining bolts are threaded the opposite direction of the expected torque. So if the motor turns clockwise, the bolt securing the gear on the shaft tightens counter-clockwise. Or at least that's how I remember which way to turn it (corrections welcome).

You haven't said why you are removing the bottom carrier, but be careful how you immobilize it. Jamming a screwdriver through the chute to block it may snap off one of the sweep vanes. Better to immobilize it as Paul shows in the prior page.

[LGB]

Thank you. I've used Paul's method and finally got the darn thing to give up. There are only light dents in the bottom, probably I can smoothen that.

Why I did it? Well, if you've got a >15 yo Mazzer from Ebay you probably want to get rid of the smelly old coffee beans, don't you?

[mhoy]

Anyone know if Paul's method will work with a Cimbali Cadet?
Mark