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Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever

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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:02 am

Bought a used Astoria single-group lever machine on eBay for $130, plus $86 shipping. Here is the photo of the machine from the ebay listing:
Image

I'm using that photo because I didn't think to start taking my own photos until I was several steps into disassembling it. More pics to follow...
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:05 am

A pic of the front of the machine:

Image


and another, just as overexposed:

Image


I just love the curves on that group. Weighed it after taking it off completely; it weighs 12 pounds.
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:07 am

Left side:

Image
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:08 am

Right Side:

Image
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:09 am

Top view:
Image
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:11 am

Sight glass:
Image


Incidentally, I cracked it while removing it. Not that I was surprised by this turn of events. I'll order 2 replacements, so I can crack the first one of those also.
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:14 am

Dispersion screen. Out of focus because I shot this while the group was still attached to the frame, and I didn't have much room for the camera:

Image


note the little light bulb hanging limply to the right.
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:19 am

Boiler end:
Image


Several items of note:
1) I'm guessing that the element was manufactured in March of 1995, due to the final "03/95" on the stamp.
2) Check out the polka dots on the wire sheaths. Not sure what it is, but pretty sure I'll be replacing the wires.
3) Plenty of scale and copper corrosion to work on...
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:21 am

Heating element. Came out pretty easily, actually:
Image
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:22 am

Element hole:
Image
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:27 am

I have a few dozen other photos, mainly of my hand holding a freshly removed pipe so I'll know where to put it back. Case in point:
Image


Unfortunately, my camera battery died just before I opened up the boiler, so no photos of that. It was pretty bad, though. Hopefully I'll have a fresh battery for reassembly.
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by OkcEspresso on Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:26 am

Hey that looks familiar!

:lol:

There are a lot of common parts between our machines. This will be interesting. Tandem CMA machine rebuild/revitalizations. Before I throw anything away, I will see if you want it. :wink:

Good luck!

C.
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Tue May 02, 2006 4:14 pm

No new photos, but the project progresses nicely. Found powdered citric acid at the local restaurant supply store and soaked all of the brass and copper parts in it for several days. This worked fine on most of the parts, but had no effect on the thick black layer of ?whatever? on the inside of the copper boiler and on the heating element. Called up a local roaster that has a great repairs department, and they said that citric acid works best when it's hot. After discussing the black coating in the boiler, they suggested muriatic acid, diluted with 2 parts water. Off to Home Depot...

Kee-rist, that stuff works great on scale. I bought some long neoprene-coated gloves which allowed me to scrub the parts as they soaked in the muriatic acid solution. All of the black stuff flaked off in no time. Following the advice of the repairs department, I then dipped all of the parts in a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid, then rinsed with plenty of water. As a side bonus, my driveway is now sparkling clean!

The frame had flaking paint and rust in several spots. I worked with a chemical stripper to get the paint off in most areas, then used a wire cup attachment on my drill to brush most of the rust off of the steel beneath. Unfortunately I couldn't get a lot of the rust off of the front plate, where the boiler and the group bolt together (see previous photos). I also couldn't get any paint off of the more difficult to reach areas on the frame.

I was fortunate to go and have a talk with the local powdercoat company at this time. After discussing price ($85, including a zinc primer for rust resistance), I asked how I needed to prep the piece, explaining how I was having trouble getting all of the paint off. "Stop," he says, "because we're going to sandblast it all off anyway." Ok, what about the rust? "Don't worry about it. We'll sandblast that off too." Apparently Christmas comes early this year.

5 days later the frame comes back, and it's just lovely. I went with a slightly glossy black epoxy finish, which apparently is also used on exercise equipment because it's so tough. Put the rubber feet back on it, put it on the workbench next to the clothes washer (which is where it will stay; the thing is much to big for our kitchen), and showed my wife with a silly grin on my face. She gave me the look, then went back in the house. You know the look, I'm sure.
Drew Bushnell
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Fri May 05, 2006 4:16 am

After the acid soak, much of the copper and brass came out either dingy or kinda greyish. I took some Brasso polish to the outside of the boiler, and steel wool to the inside, as well as all of the copper pipes. All of the brass fittings went into my vise and received a quick burnish with the wire brush attachment on my drill. The boiler is copper, but the boiler lid is brass, and after some work with the brush, it's almost golden.

Bolted the boiler back onto the frame, and started a "rough draft" assembly. I wanted to make sure that all of the pipes were in still in the correct shape, and putting the machine back together allowed me to go over it, top to bottom, with diagrams in hand, to see exactly what parts were needed. It's a lot easier to see what's missing from the steam valve if you try to assemble it first.

I decided off the bat to replace every bit of rubber on the machine except for the feet. Based on the amount of rust, scale and mold in the inside, I can't imagine that it had a good life before coming to my house. Whenever possible, I'm going with teflon seals, such as with the boiler gasket, the group gasket, and the autofill sensor gasket. There are also several copper washers that I've never seen before. They're sort of rounded, like doughnuts; at least, when they're new. The ones on this machine are all flattened. Not sure what the advantage of this kind of washer is, but I'll trust the designers.

I found out that the wire brush attachment on my drill does wonders for all sorts of things on the machine. It cleaned up the steel screws that attach the boiler endplate to the boiler, and in the case of 5 of the screws, strip away all of the rust to show that there are serious bits of thread that have corroded completely away. Add those to the parts order...

Everything is coming along nicely, actually. Went to EPNW and ordered a buncha stuff: 48 pieces in all. One side note: wouldn't it be cool if the little red ball inside the sight glass were available in different designs, like an 8-ball, a little yellow happy face, a yin/yang ball, a disco ball, or a tiny planet Earth? Ok, for a 32-cent item it may be asking a bit much, but I'm just sayin'...

Only one part that EPNW doesn't have: the pipe that comes out of the boiler and goes to the bottom of the sight glass fitting, as seen below:
Image


The welded fitting on the end has cracked and fallen off. I suppose i could fabricate the piece myself, but while I am reasonably competent at replacing parts, I am not the best at making my own. So I'll see if I can't get the piece from the importer instead.

Still no battery for my camera yet.
Drew Bushnell
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by cannonfodder on Fri May 05, 2006 8:54 am

You can purchase the little bullet ends by themselves and solder them onto new pipe.
Dave Stephens
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by OkcEspresso on Fri May 05, 2006 10:33 am

On mine, that pipe is steel, not copper.

http://www.home-barista.com/forum...-coffee-t1413.html (first picture)

This could make a difference when discussing with EPNW.

C.
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by bushnell_a on Fri May 05, 2006 11:35 am

Thought of that too, but no, they just don't have the pipe. I'll get it eventually, though.
Drew Bushnell
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by Borys Ta Polon on Fri May 05, 2006 8:26 pm


Hi-I also have been rebuilding an Astoria lever machine. The pipe you mention was broken on my machine as well. (I think the water in the boiler had frozen, blowing out the pipe)
Anyway, I was able to secure that part. If you can't find it anywhere else, I do distribute Astoria machines, so give me a call.
Borys
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Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by mattwells on Fri May 05, 2006 9:19 pm

I am very jealous of the Astoria projects...if only I could find one.
Matt Wells

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A nice lever......

Link to "Rebuilding a Single Group Astoria Lever"by mogogear on Fri May 05, 2006 11:38 pm

mattwells wrote:I am very jealous of the Astoria projects...if only I could find one.


There is a nice one on ebay - A La SanMarco

Image

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4459873241

A pretty hefty BUY IT now price- but .... The seller gave me the dimensions as 21" h (to the top of the handle x 14"w x 18 deep).

Seems to be in nice shape, but you never know. Claims to be barista owned- maybe.
I know, sorry to feed the sharks, but
greg moore

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