Potential Mod -- replace machine frame/shell to reduce countertop space?

[DickC]

I'm fairly happy with my Expobar lever, but it looms a bit large on my counter. With reservoir gone (plumbed in) and soon pump too, there's not really that much left. Grouphead & boiler with attachments, valve-wands, gauge, heater-light, switch, -- front panel has just 9 holes -- fill-controller, that's about it. Just a lot of empty space inside some sheet metal.

I'm thinking of something cylindrical (octagonal?) that would mount from the side to a wooden column I happen to have coming up through the counter, supporting the ceiling. The machine would then use near-zero counter space.

Although I could presumably buy all the parts to build a machine, they would cost more than the Expobar did, and for sure a lot more than I could get for the Expobar. Also, presumably, all these parts now work together and would still do so with different structure and covers...

So what obvious problems am I not seeing with this scheme?

It *seems* like just sheetmetal, machining, plumbing, and a little wiring.

Of course, I do know that this little project will obey the First Law of Projects: "It takes longer than..." (Than you thought, than you planned, than it should, etc.) But otherwise?

Are there subtle issues of machine tuning for thermal issues, having to do with shape, volume, airflow that affect coffee brewing and so on?

I might want to reposition the boiler more directly behind the grouphead, which might shorten the lower thermosyphon tube some and raise the boiler relative to the grouphead -- problems?

Comments, criticism, constructive ridicule -- all much appreciated.

[Paul]

hi Dick,

I plan to do this very thing with either a spare 3gr carimali or 2gr astoria lever machine. Kees van der Westen is the man with respect to rebodying machines: http://www.keesvanderwesten.com/index2.html . Click on the 'earlier work' tab for inspiration.

[espressme]

hi Dick,

I plan to do this very thing with either a spare 3gr carimali or 2gr astoria lever machine. Kees van der Westen is the man with respect to rebodying machines: http://www.keesvanderwesten.com/index2.html . Click on the 'earlier work' tab for inspiration.

Hi Paul, I only found the four machines there and no tab, Is there a better URL?
This may be another site as some are shown toward the page bottom.
http://www.espressovivace.com/archives/9501col.html
richard

[Paul]

hi Richard,
try across the top, above the mirage picture between the 'workshop' and 'distributors' tabs. sorry, I don't know how to link to pages within a flash site.

[DickC]

hi Dick,

I plan to do this very thing with either a spare 3gr carimali or 2gr astoria lever machine. Kees van der Westen is the man with respect to rebodying machines: http://www.keesvanderwesten.com/index2.html . Click on the 'earlier work' tab for inspiration.

Well, I have a perspective now on how truly modest my little project is, compared to what's possible. Thanks Paul, that's what I wanted to know -- basically, that the components producing hot water and pressure are what brews the coffee while the skin and structure are about appearance, access, and use of space.

[erics]

Hi Dick -

I would recommend that you keep the position of the boiler and the grouphead (with respect to one another) the same. The thermosyphon system is very finicky and doesn't like to be disturbed too much.

Well, on the other hand, perhaps an orifice or lengthening of the outlet line or solenoid valve is not a major disturbance.

[espressme]

hi Richard,
try across the top, above the mirage picture between the 'workshop' and 'distributors' tabs. sorry, I don't know how to link to pages within a flash site.

Only works in Explorer. Duh! I have firefox. Now I know!
richard

[DickC]

Thanks Eric,

I'm sure you're right that the safest is to keep the boiler/grouphead connection stock. I hope that you're also right that various changes might not constitute major disturbance. Right now, it looks like my best option is to rotate boiler 90 degrees and reconnect closer. I'm also thinking about making provision for some of those changes you mention, such as variable restriction and solenoid valve...

Anyone know if there are special considerations in connecting copper tubes that are part of the thermosiphon? Soldered fittings and threaded brass should be OK, yes? (Since both are used in the stock hookup.) No special solder or anything unobvious? I may need to make some of my own fittings, but that doesn't look difficult.

Any advice appreciated.

[Spresso_Bean]

I kind of like the industrial look of exposing the internal workings of a nice machine, but I'd like to see pictures of your completed project once you're done. The Kees van der Westen site is awesome - works of art that make espresso.

[DickC]

Pictures, for sure. So far, it's just in my head and some crude pencil sketches.

Don't look for van der Westen level of art -- my ambitions are less and my taste more conservative. But I'll be happy to share what I do.

[Paul]

Dick - re solder; use lead free silver solder.

[DickC]

Dick - re solder; use lead free silver solder.

Thanks Paul,

OK, despite lots of weldiing and brazing experience, I haven't used silver solder. Did you mean plumber's "silver" solder, such as DutchBoy Silver:

Tin 95.6% Melting Temperature 440°F
Copper 4.0% Tensile Strength 6900psi
Silver .4%
Wide pasty range (440@-640° F) allows for more working time.

Which compares to more ordinary lead free, such as TarametSterling:

Tin Balance Tensile Strength 7130psi
Copper 4.0 - 5.0% Shear Strength 5970psi
Selenium .04 - .2% Melting Temperature 410 F
Best flowing lead-free available.

I assume not the welding supply type that melts at 1400+ °F but offers no potable water spec ?

[Paul]

yup, plumbers silver solder.

don't forget to post progress pics!