I doubt that you are ever going to get sufficient gas pressure using a barbeque regulator. You need an adjustable high pressure regulator similar to this one:

https://millcityroasters.com/shop/roast ... lator-kit/

Our regulator won't help you, because the internal regulator is a second stage regulator with a maximum set point of about 3 KPA or 12" WC. According to this, it appears to be adjustable.

http://gassazan.com/atdm-media/images/r ... %D8%A7.pdf

If it's adjustable, the black cap on top will unscrew and there will be a slotted adjustment disk underneath. Turn that disk clockwise to increase the gas pressure.

If 3 KPA doesn't give you enough heat, you'll have to decrease the batch size.

It came from Turkey, no Instructions. I actually just Emailed them, will see what they got to say....
Meanwhile tried another batch this morning, 750 gr. only. Took almost half hr, to get to 200c, after beans went in, the temp. dropped to 150c and by the end of the roast only to 165c at 17min. will wait 48hr. before tasting.

Nice looking roaster. The picture you show is that of a low pressure, second stage regulator. The first stage regulator (usually on the tank) MUST be used with it. Although it is intended to produce a fixed 30 mbar (about 7 ounces) of pressure, it is possible for a QUALIFIED person with the right equipment to adjust it manually from about 20 to 50 mbar. This may have been done by the roaster manufacturer (important to know if you have to replace it with a part from another supplier). BTW, two regulators are used in equipment where stable pressure is important (i.e., a well-designed roaster). The huge variation in raw pressure from propane tanks makes the output from single stage regulators vary, mostly due to hysteresis in the poppet valve mechanism. If you are unable to achieve sufficient flame, the poppet in either regulator could be clogged. Only a qualified person can service them and, frankly, they usually advise to simply buy a new one. Somewhere in your system, as others have noted, you must have a means to adjust the flame. In simple roasters, it is just a manual needle valve, or it could be an automated valve. This too could become clogged. Usually needle valves can be cleared by repeatedly opening them to the max, closing them to the max (not too tight or you'll mess up the seating), with the propane flowing. Be sure to do this in a well ventilated area, preferably with the flame lit.

Edit: I see more replies and photos posted while I was typing, including from Mill City. They more about this than I do, by far. Good luck!

Wow, I can't thank enough you guys, for taking time to read and reply....
Firstly: yes, there is an adjustment screw under the cover and there was room to increase the flow!!!!
It still took close to half hr. to get to the 200c, but the whole roast took less time 15min. The temp. read out at the end still 165c, but, maybe I shouldn't trust the PID read out.

If you can, try reducing your airflow.

I'm glad that you are happier now than since "day one".

BUT I sure can't agree with what you did. This roaster has a design gas input pressure and that will surely be contained in the manual(s) which were sadly left out of your shipment. The regulator you have on your propane supply should be similar to that sold by MillCityRoasters & recommended by Dave B. It should be adjusted to provide the design gas input pressure.

Then, the machines internal regulator should be adjusted to the design value recommended by the roaster manufacturer.

I AM NOT a roaster but I do have some knowledge re pressure regulators. The flame(s) from your burner do not look right. There should be no exiting flame near the orifice and the flame tips should just barely "kiss" the drum as compared to enveloping the bottom surface as your pic shows. I certainly defer to a roaster with an equivalent machine as yours and definitely to the manufacturer. Why not send them a link to this thread and get their input?

erics wrote:There should be no exiting flame near the orifice and the flame tips should just barely "kiss" the drum as compared to enveloping the bottom surface as your pic shows. I certainly defer to a roaster with an equivalent machine as yours and definitely to the manufacturer. Why not send them a link to this thread and get their input?

A) Look more closely. His original pic shows the same flame out of the orifice.

B) To the inexperienced eye, I can understand the confusion, but probably not an equivalent machine.

Sometimes the flame in my 1 Kg roaster fairly well envelopes the drum. The beans don't burn. With larger loads or denser beans I'm glad to have the extra gas pressure. Of course I'm roasting using Mill City's high pressure regulator in a roaster they know. When I'm doing that the drum is set to spin faster and I increase airflow to make sure the flame gets enough oxygen to avoid a flame-out. Like Eric, I believe a new roaster should be delivered with a manual so that its gas pressure is properly regulated and controlled.

A) Look more closely. His original pic shows the same flame out of the orifice.

Of course, I agree, but his original configuration (from day one) was improper in some way, shape, or form.

I still say that the flame exiting from the orifice area is NOT correct.

And, respectfully, I am definitely not confused although I be wrong in some of my comments.