Versalab M3 - Static electricity ruining my grind

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
Mr Coffee Labs
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Joined: 7 years ago

#1: Post by Mr Coffee Labs »

Hi all,

Using the Versalab M3- having issues with grounds sticking to bottom of basket if the portafilter or cup isn't pressed directly against the basket. I used food wax around the edges and inside of the basket which worked well to prevent grinds from sticking.
The M3 instruction manual indicates that the static wand is "shorter" than the picture in the instruction manual, and I'm

1st question- I'm trying to grind for a Melita drip pour (around setting 7~8)- I know the M3 is capable of grinding to that coarseness, but is it primarily for grinding espresso? The belt slips (more often) grinding more coarse. And if I do not have a portafilter or cup pressed against the basket, grinds build up (1-2gs).. I guess what I'm asking, does anyone have a good method for using the M3 to grind coffee for pour overs?

2nd question- is this the length of the static wiper on my M3 correct? Or is it too short? (Also, anyone know how easy it is to replace?)

3rd question- any advice on replacement belts? I've already had the stock belt slip a few times, planning on upgrading to a sturdier belt from Dr. Bean, if they're still available.

Thanks all


*also the picture of the bottom basket (removed) is just for reference. Those grounds aren't the actual grounds that are clumped to the basket.

leozava
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#2: Post by leozava »

have you tried adding a couple drops of water to your beans before you grind them????

dino
Posts: 38
Joined: 12 years ago

#3: Post by dino »

RDT or send it to Terranova :lol:

samuellaw178
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#4: Post by samuellaw178 »

1st question - I've never used mine for drip coffee. But if static is the culprit, you can spray some water onto the beans to reduce static (using an atomizer bottle). Without that, some static is normal and is expected. Ross Droplet Technique-Eliminating Grinder Static

2nd - Your static wiper length (the thin metal wire) is correct. The longer static wiper you might've seen was the older version. Note that the 'static' in this context means that the wiper is stationary, and not that it is used to eliminate the static generated from grinding action.

3rd - How old is your belt? I personally would (and did) replace the belt with a cogged/Dr Bean belt. The motor seems plenty powerful but the belt slips once it's dusty/old/scarred. Before the Dr Bean belt upgrade it slips easily (got mine used), and the motor never stall after the upgrade. If you replace it with a cogged belt, either install a thermal breaker or remember to not allow the motor to stall for excessive periods (ie, don't load the bean for grinding and walk away), just in case.

I got mine from another hb member Rush as Dr Bean can only start the manufacturing after a minimum 10 orders is met. Rush might have more belts if you pm him (if he doesn't reply, pm me I have his email).

Mr Coffee Labs (original poster)
Posts: 4
Joined: 7 years ago

#5: Post by Mr Coffee Labs (original poster) »

samuellaw178 wrote:1st question - I've never used mine for drip coffee. But if static is the culprit, you can spray some water onto the beans to reduce static (using an atomizer bottle). Without that, some static is normal and is expected. Ross Droplet Technique-Eliminating Grinder Static
- thanks for the link, very helpful
samuellaw178 wrote:2nd - Your static wiper length (the thin metal wire) is correct. The longer static wiper you might've seen was the older version. Note that the 'static' in this context means that the wiper is stationary, and not that it is used to eliminate the static generated from grinding action.
- ok thanks for clarifying this.
samuellaw178 wrote:3rd - How old is your belt? I personally would (and did) replace the belt with a cogged/Dr Bean belt. The motor seems plenty powerful but the belt slips once it's dusty/old/scarred. Before the Dr Bean belt upgrade it slips easily (got mine used), and the motor never stall after the upgrade. If you replace it with a cogged belt, either install a thermal breaker or remember to not allow the motor to stall for excessive periods (ie, don't load the bean for grinding and walk away), just in case.

I got mine from another hb member Rush as Dr Bean can only start the manufacturing after a minimum 10 orders is met. Rush might have more belts if you pm him (if he doesn't reply, pm me I have his email).
- the belt isn't new, isn't old.. I've ground maybe 500-600 grams in the past 6 mos. and the belt is starting to slip more and more often. Thermal breaker is a great idea!
If i cannot find a replacement belt online i'll shoot you a DM. Thanks!

samuellaw178
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#6: Post by samuellaw178 »

Mr Coffee Labs wrote: and the belt is starting to slip more and more often. !
Ah, yes. The moment it slips, it will get worsen from there onward as the grooved smaller pulley will scar the belt. The more it slips, the more scarred it will be, and the less grippy it is. It's a downward spiral. The only way to avoid that altogether is to pull out the belt every now and then(every week or two) and clean with acetone, and never allow it to slip.

For now, you can also flip the belt inside-out, should last you a bit. Overall, I do think a cogged-belt+breaker is a better solution than dealing with organic solvents. Another way is to utilize a different motor controller that reduces the likelihood of slipping via rpm feedback/regulation. You will likely need a new belt regardless. Versalab M3 vs. Others