Help/advice needed to restore Elektra Microcasa a Leva

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holonomic
Posts: 19
Joined: 7 years ago

#1: Post by holonomic »

Hi there I have just purchased a second hand elektra mcal and I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on what it may need doing to it to get it into a well working espresso machine. I believe that it has had little use but has been in storage a while and needs some TLC

From what I can tell it is most likely going to need new seals/gaskets all over. But I am holding off from ordering these as I'd rather get everything ordered at once.
The machine should be arriving tomorrow so I will know more then but here are some pictures of the machine.






It looks in 'ok' condition but I wouldn't be surprised if it needs more than just the seals replacing (budgeting to replace the heater and more if needed). I think the plastic drip tray is not there either so that would be something else I need to get for it.
I plan on replacing all the wiring and anything else that could do with upgrading while I am at it.

My main concern however are the marks on the base which looks as if rust has set in and has damaged the chrome. Does anyone have any tips on how to treat this or is it going to be a case of putting up with it until I can justify a re-chrome?

Most pictures I see of these online seem to have slightly different logos on the front... the oldest being the sticker and then the one I have and then the ones seen on modern ones... any idea of when they changed these over so that I could attempt to age it?
Any tips/hints will be helpful as I have not done something like this before (although I am looking forward to it!)

To summarize I plan on doing the following (please tell me what else I should be doing).

- treat for limescale (unless it REALLY does not need it)
- Replace seals and gasket (maybe teflon or PTFE?)
- Give everything a good clean
- Lube the piston and replace if corrosion has set it
- replace wiring harnesses
- treat the rust showing up on the chrome (hopefully)
- buy a new drip tray
- MAYBE buy some wooden handles, or get some made :/


//Holo

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rpavlis
Posts: 1799
Joined: 12 years ago

#2: Post by rpavlis »

The first thing I would do when it arrived would be to look for external damage from shipping. Then I would fill it with water, connect it to a power source, and check to be sure that everything functions without leaks. Usually the pressurestats turn off the current at about 1.0 to 1.2 bar. I would then turn the machine off and disconnect the power and let it cool off.

I would then remove the two Allen screws from the top of the group and remove the piston assembly. It should come out easily. Look at the inside walls. They should be smooth. There should be no pitting! Examine the piston assembly carefully. Look at the two piston seals and evaluate their condition. Clean everything well. You should probably also remove the dispersion screen. It can be pushed out the bottom with something like a flat wooden dowel. Clean the dispersion screen and the bottom of the group where it fits.

You will need some dimethylsiloxane polymer grease, Dow 111. Do NOT use any kind of lubricant except these "silicone" ones, as other lubricants will damage the seals. Be careful not go get any UNDER the piston when you replace it, but be sure that there is plenty on the seals and above them. Be careful when replacing the piston assembly, you can damage the seals if they fail to enter the bore properly.

These machines have a very small filler hole, and it is difficult to inspect inside. One thing that works well is a rifle bore illuminator. These boilers are brass. Use only citric or acetic acid for descaling should that be necessary. These machines are particularly prone to damage from contaminated water. Hard water and water with more than traces of chloride can cause worse damage with these machines than many others. That is why Elektra has stern warning with new ones NOT to use contaminated water.

The seals could be fine. You will have to check.

The base is fairly thick metal compared to many other sheet metal parts on espresso machines. You might get some chrome polish and try to clean up everything. Remove the plastic sub base. Check for leaks inside. That will tell you whether you need seals.

After my macaw decided the wooden handle on mine was a large nut I replaced the group handle with brass. I also replaced the portafilter handle with brass too. (I had to use a Ti threaded rod to attached a brass handle to the brass portafilter--with a brass rod it got too hot.) It is quite easy to make handles, either wood or brass, with a lathe. (Note that Titanium has an extremely low thermal conductivity.)

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holonomic (original poster)
Posts: 19
Joined: 7 years ago

#3: Post by holonomic (original poster) »

Thank you so much for that. It is nice to hear the process someone more experienced would go through upon receiving a second hand machine.
I think I'm getting a head of myself as usual and thinking too far a head. What I currently plan on doing is what you suggested and leave as much as possible alone, aim on getting it working and then in a couple of months I shall maybe completely strip it down and rebuild it with new gaskets/seals.

It may sound sacrilegious but upon searching on how to go about re-chroming it I saw a picture of one completely stripped of chrome/brass.... this to me looked lovely and I may very well strip the chrome all the way back and only put a matte clear finish on it to protect it from corrosion...

I am new to home espresso machines having only used stove tops and an aeropress before... So I think I should try to keep most things stock for now just in case I decide to sell it for a HX machine. For now though I am eager to welcome this elektra into the fold.


Thank you again for your reply.

//Holo

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cuppajoe
Posts: 1643
Joined: 11 years ago

#4: Post by cuppajoe »

Stefano has a complete seal/gasket kit as well as repair parts - https://www.espressocare.com/products/microcasa-leva.

If wanting the brass look, you might find someone here wanting a chrome one and do a swap. It looks like a recent version, so the base and other sheet metal parts may be steel. If you do strip it, make sure to clear coat it with a material that is water and heat proof, funky clear coat is a common complaint with the brass/copper versions.

If using citric acid, make sure to no mix chrome and brass. I usually use a 50/50 white vinegar solution for descaling chromed parts.
David - LMWDP 448

My coffee wasn't strong enough to defend itself - Tom Waits

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sweaner
Posts: 3013
Joined: 16 years ago

#5: Post by sweaner »

Where do you see marks that look like rust? I see reflections. It looks like a nice machine.

I would run it and see what happens!
Scott
LMWDP #248

holonomic (original poster)
Posts: 19
Joined: 7 years ago

#6: Post by holonomic (original poster) replying to sweaner »

Ah, sorry I just realized I uploaded the same photo twice!

Here is the picture I'm referring to


holonomic (original poster)
Posts: 19
Joined: 7 years ago

#7: Post by holonomic (original poster) »

Hi, just a quick update. The Elektra arrived today and it is actually much better condition than I was expecting, the date on the base says 2001.
All I had to do was put a plug on the cable and then proceeded to do as Rpavlis suggested. To my delight the light turned on and the water began to heat up. I then drained the boiler and let the pressure build up and it stopped right before 1.5psi and then dropped down to 1 bar and is now just sitting around the 1.3 mark, so maybe a little too high?

Upon pulling down the lever water came out of shower screen and the motion felt smooth both up and down. there are small bits in the water so I think I'd be best to descale the boiler... although to be honest I wouldn't be surprised if it had never been used and the bits are just dust/dirt from storage.

The seals seem to be ok too... although I was concerned at one point that the boiler cap had gone as I could see water around it... but I think this may have been excess water around the cap which was just boiling away (seems fine now).
The steam wand is working as it should be too and just giving the base a wipe has removed most of the "rust" but there are some very small blemishes left over.

So, all I really need to buy is the plastic trip tray and a double basket as only a single one came with the machine, which I hear is not so good.

I'm waiting for it to cool down before I can look at the piston assembly, but I am hopeful that it will be OK. Actually, that is another thing I must buy - Dow 111.

Thank you again, I shall update you with pictures once I have cleaned it over the weekend.