Hello fellow tweakers....

I have a question. I want to align the flat burrs on my Grindmaster bulk grinder.. here is what they look like.



Because of the lack of a flat edge, the marker test doesn't seem to tell me much. My grinder uses a screw on the front knob to calibrate coarser and finer. Clockwise turns are finer. So here's the question. In theory, if the burrs are closer to parallel wouldn't I be able to calibrate to a finer screw position before they start to touch (heard by audible chirp)...

I have a hunch based on the marker test which side might be closest together so think I know where to start with my shims.

Have you tried the marker trick? I don't think alignment by sound is feasable, but this video might help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jWlpz9mELM

RyanJE wrote: In theory, if the burrs are closer to parallel wouldn't I be able to calibrate to a finer screw position before they start to touch (heard by audible chirp)...

Yes that is right.
The more parallel, the bigger the gap between your grind setting and 0 point.

trumz wrote:Have you tried the marker trick? I don't think alignment by sound is feasable, but this video might help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jWlpz9mELM

Yes, that was the point of my post. Since my burrs don't have a flat edge, the marker doesn't wipe when they are touching....

Terranova wrote:Yes that is right.
The more parallel, the bigger the gap between your grind setting and 0 point.

Awesome, thanks Frank!

See my post about how I aligned them. The Grindmaster 890

I used a dial indicator and a little creativity. Basically, there are three positions for the inner burr which are slightly different in height. You can use a flat screw driver to push the slightly-tightened burr up/down/left/right.

Great grinder.

I've read that post before and am confused now. I thought that was to align the burrs concentrically rather than parallel? Can you correct parallel alignement that way?

How come you got rid of it?

You might get lucky and be able to correct parallel alignment by trying possible permutations of the 3 positions each burr can be installed in, other than that, aluminium foil shims are the only reasonable solution. But you need to find a way to see the pattern when the burrs touch.You should be able to do it with a sharpie or maybe Dykem, but you might need a magnifying glass or better to see the marks.

Ira

Actually a magnifying glass is a good idea. Since the burr edges have peaks, its very hard to tell right now.