Another thing to maybe replace is the Pstat since it is a 20A Pstat which Reiss says hangs up and causes problems. He even claims that the machines (L1-p and the L-2,3 ) are fitted with them when they come from the factory; mine was NOT.

Or replace that pstat with a simple MA-TER and appropriate SSR.

I would replace the anti-vac valve with one from the current GS/3 OR the one that has a male barb and then utilize a silicone 90 ell as pictured below:

erics wrote:Or replace that pstat with a simple MA-TER and appropriate SSR.

I would replace the anti-vac valve with one from the current GS/3 OR the one that has a male barb and then utilize a silicone 90 ell as pictured below:

<image>

I like the idea of an SSR and MA-TER.

What exists now is this:


Not a lot of room in here.



I already have the current GS/3 valve waiting to go in, just need the barbed fitting for the drain cup, or maybe delete that and just drill a hole in the side of the cup.

Stephen -

What is this?

Have you ever had an issue with the Sirai? Mine is still working fine after 5 years of use.

erics wrote:Or replace that pstat with a simple MA-TER and appropriate SSR.

I would replace the anti-vac valve with one from the current GS/3 OR the one that has a male barb and then utilize a silicone 90 ell as pictured below:

I gave up on those silicone ells as they kept falling apart about every 18 months. The top of the LM vac valve on a generic vacuum valve body/internals is the best set up I've used.

Recently replaced the failed Jumo steam boiler electronic controller in my Speedster with a kit that uses a Mater P'stat & Comus SSR with a built in transformer. Amazingly the Mater is dead quiet & has a nice tight 1 bar deadband.

JohnB. wrote:Have you ever had an issue with the Sirai? Mine is still working fine after 5 years of use.

The 20A might have caused problems in the L-1 but so far the 20A in the 240V L1-p has given zero problems, although being mounted to the frame it is a bit noisy.

I gave up on those silicone ells as they kept falling apart about every 18 months. The top of the LM vac valve on a generic vacuum valve body/internals is the best set up I've used.

I agree that those silicone ells are being proposed (by me) for a service they were not necessarily intended. However, I have not experienced the problems you have. They are required depending upon the bend radius of the tubing necessary to clear the surrounding sheet metal.

Definitely I agree with the use of the GS/3 vacuum breaker.

Sirai pressurestats have varieties:



I only have experience with one (original Londinium L1) and certainly believe that a MA-TER pressurestat with an SSR is far superior.

erics wrote:Stephen -

What is this?

<image>

Top panel of the L1p removed showing boiler.

I really meant what the green arrow was pointing to.

HA! I was looking on my "Smartphone" and missed the arrow.

I am not sure the proper nomenclature of that device but from my observation it is a resettable breaker that controls the Heating Element and the Gicar and the Pstat. It is mounted right next to the AntiVac valve, above the Heating Element.





Without an exploded view and a parts list I would be guessing at what Fracino is calling that part. The Bambino lists it as a relay but it clearly has a reset or manual override button on top.