Cimbali M30 dosatron - rebuild progress. - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
gor-l (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 12 years ago

#11: Post by gor-l (original poster) »

Lee,
I'm still looking at a pile of un-painted body parts that need attention before I can re-build. :( I need to find time to get to a powder coaters..
However, I have cleaned and reassembled some parts - I'll post some before and after shots when I get home.

The jury is still out on the boiler - the base-plate at the bottom looks cast rather than machined. It could be stainless. Seems unlikely.
Most of the parts are getting "coppered" at least a bit and if nickel plated, that might be coming off in a few places. It seems a shame not to keep the original finishes so if anyone has any tips on cleaning well while preserving finishes, I'm all ears.

Regarding grease, I have put a couple of assemblies back together dry - I don't want to introduce grease where it isn't needed and end up drinking bits of it for a while. Food grade grease on the steam wands sounds like a good idea - erring on the side of caution. The easily obtained alternative is something a bit "automotive" for use in the kitchen. :shock:

I would like new heat exchangers but I'm still struggling to find a supplier in the UK. Any pointers welcomed.

My pressure gauge pipe is clear. I don't think it was necessarily that. I had a cursory glance at the dial to see if I could get into it, but it looks like the bezel snaps onto the body and will easily be damaged removing it. Can they be fixed or are they disposable? It is in dirty but good condition otherwise.

Cheers,
Thom.

lmclaren
Posts: 51
Joined: 12 years ago

#12: Post by lmclaren »

http://www.espressoparts.com/M2732SolenoidGroup

are US based, there are a few good suppliers in Europe, you may have better luck.

I use coffeeparts.com.au but espressoparts has a better range.

I have another that I have the link for on my home computer, I will send later.

lmclaren
Posts: 51
Joined: 12 years ago

#13: Post by lmclaren »

This one looked good, but they are a little far away for me:
http://www.gastroparts.pl/
http://www.gastroparts.pl/pliki/2/Cimbali.pdf

lmclaren
Posts: 51
Joined: 12 years ago

#14: Post by lmclaren »


gor-l (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 12 years ago

#15: Post by gor-l (original poster) »

Question regarding Lucifer valves - I have stripped the main parts and cleaned them, however, I can't get the inner seals and springs out of the plunger. Actually, I can do the one that is positioned away from the mounting flange, but not the one that faces the flange - the spring is too short to compress enough to flip the seals sideways.

Has anyone any ideas how to do this??

Is it "normally" done or do most people just clean around them?

The valve was pretty manky so I would like to clean it all the way through if possible.

Any suggestions anyone??

Many thanks,
Thom.

lmclaren
Posts: 51
Joined: 12 years ago

#16: Post by lmclaren »

Which valve is this? I have gotten all of mine apart without breakage but it does take more than the usual amount of patience...

gor-l (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 12 years ago

#17: Post by gor-l (original poster) »

They are the 3-way solenoid valves on the group heads.
Both are pretty blackened with coffee tar or something and I'd like to get right into the spring to get as much of it out as possible. I really don't want to drink any of it!

Breakage isn't so much of an issue, it's more a question of technique. How is it assembled/disassembled??

Ta, Thom.

lmclaren
Posts: 51
Joined: 12 years ago

#18: Post by lmclaren »

Ahh, sorry did not tweak to the name on the valve, can see it now on the diagram.

On mine, if they are the same, Undo the nut on the end of the shaft that is holding on the coil assemby, wiggle the coil off and put aside.
Undo the 2x Allen bolts from the square plate that is holding the valve to the body (there are 4 holes but only 2 used on mine) and wiggle the valve off, I suspect you have already got that far.
When you undo the bolts you can then split the square block that is the valve, the bit with the shaft separates from the brass block that goes against the group head. It is the square bits that separate, the bit with the shaft is only about 1mm thick.
Maybe a soak in citric acid or hot group head cleaner. I did not disassemble any further as it was clean.

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