Background: At first my quick mill Anita started tripping the GFI socket. I didn't think there was anything wrong with the machine, but a problem with the GFI socket. I then plugged my quick mill into a regular outlet.
I would start my brewing process but the boiler now took 35 minutes to heat up. Again, i thought this was normal. But the problem was that the vacuum breaker valve would not seal. I ordered a new vacuum breaker valve to replace the old one, cause that's what a technician at chris's coffee suggested. The new vacuum breaker valve is a little different, it has a spot to attach a 1/4 silicon tube to it. see my next post for the modification.

My problem was still happening. The boiler would heat up and there was some steam coming out of the breaker valve. but the steam was never strong enough to push the plunger up within the vacuum breaker valve to seal the system. If i manually help lift the plunger to seal it, then my boiler would heat normally albeit a little slow. It turns out the heating element was cracked. But would still heat up. That's what caused the GFI to trip.
HOW TO DIAGNOSE IF ITS YOUR HEATING ELEMENT IS BAD.
So even if the heating element was cracked, it would still heat up the water, but it won't generate enough steam or heat. Another sign that you have a problem with heating element is if it trips the GFI socket. To test this, unplug the leads that is connected to the heating element. Plug the machine back into GFI socket. Turn on the machine. If the GFI socket is not tripped then your system is fine. If it still trips the GFI electrical outlet, then you have another problem with your espresso machine. If the GFI electrical outlet does not trip with the leads to heating element detached, then your heating element is the problem. You will notice the crack in the old heating element on the 3rd rung from the right. There were more cracks but not shown in the picture. (see picture)


To replace the heating element, i ordered the new element at chris's coffee. The newer shinier one on top (see pic)
HOW I FIXED IT.
The heating element will be very tight or appear stuck. I bought a 1 7/16 (VERY BIG) wrench but the heating element would not budge. It would just rotate the boiler. so BE CAREFUL. You can bend the copper tubes and kink it. The best way to remove the heating element was using an impact driver.
I bought a 1 7/16 (very big) socket at sears with the a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter, then a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter finally connected to the 3/8" socket adapter that fits in my dewalt impact drill. It's effortless to unscrew and doesn't rotate the entire boiler.

Unscrew the old heating element, put some teflon tape around it and screw the new one back in.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE!!!

I also to this opportunity to flush out the boiler. It was full of calcium granules like sand after decalcification.


The white and black sand like granules is actually calcium flake residual that does not get completely dissolved during decalcification. There was probably 2 table spoons full of that stuff inside the boiler. I found the best way to flush the granules out of the boiler was to bring the machine over to the kitchen sink. With the heating element taken out, take the kitchen shower head and squirt it up in the heating element hole. (SEE PIC)

water will flush the loose granules and run down the sink. This process is very mess and will get the bottom of the machine wet. Just remember to use a blower or hair dryer to completely dry any water that splashed on the electrical components.

Great info.
I'd add that in absence of an impact driver, you can whack the wrench with a mallet to get the same effect, albeit slower. Have to be careful either way and start with low power on the impact, if adjustable.

Just curious, how often did you descale? Do you feel that to-frequent descaling may have led to the demise of the element?