Mazzer Super Jolly doserless modification - Page 3

[lino]

Hey Sean,

At some point you (well, I, not necessarily you) have to quit trying to fix it. I drew the line on this at adding new holes or doing any cutting. That leaves it with some glaring issues such as the ones you discussed.

My opinion of the SJ is not the highest out there, but the price of used ones gets you a decent grinder for the $$. Making it doserless seemed (and still does some days) to be a good idea.

I have hopes at some point to start from scratch, but like many projects, it's just waiting in the wings....

ciao

lino

[lennoncs]

Lino,
I couldn't agree more.

After a while it gets to the point where you save the motor and a few other tidbits and throw the rest away.

I would like to start from scratch also but with a DRM burr set (conical/flat)
but where do you get them?


all in all though, the machine serves well for the price they were to be had for.

Cheers,
Sean

[shadowfax]

and felt like spending a lot of money to make a doserless conversion.


about a week ago i randomly browsed Espressoparts.com and noticed, hey, look! there's that Mini-E chute! I want one! ... must... have!

so I ordered it.



The arrival was something of a let-down. As I read somewhat post-facto, you really need to have that damn finger guard thing there or the chute just totally sucks.

So, I made a little mesh out of twist-ties to see if this really were true, and that worked out real well--no static problems. But it really, really irritated me that I couldn't sweep the stupid inner chute out. I slept on it and came up with the idea that I should make a movable de-staticizer


And this is what I came up with:





Of course I know it looks like crap--that's what the lid is for. The important part is that it does the job--dropping almost all the static in the grinds--without precluding the per-session inner chute sweep. I'm starting to really like this idea. Mine is low on production value, of course, because I just learned how to solder today, and this is not really the ideal place for soldering anyway. But, heck, I think that a hinge and a little mesh door with an easily disconnected and reconnected locker would be awesome.

Now i am reasonably happy with my doserless mod. maybe someday i'll get a real hinge with a cool mesh door welded in. until then, I'll be shooting my coffee through a soldered and sanitized paperclip.

[Bobenis]

Why not just use a small rare earth magnet or something similar near the chute exit to kill the static? Just a thought.

[bentzltr]

I realize that this is an old thread, but I am to receive the Super jolly i got off of ebay tomorrow, Im just looking for opinions on what methods of modding people were happiest with, as i plan to remove the doser, and convert to doserless.

[Psyd]

Why not just use a small rare earth magnet or something similar near the chute exit to kill the static? Just a thought.

Or, attach the grid to the lid, and have the grid removed just as you take the lid off to brush the chute. there is no law that says that the grid has to be the same width as the chute opening, so you could have it be just slightly wider so that you don't have to be micron accurate on aligning the thing when you put the lid on.
I always thought that the chute should be sloped down toward the doser's bottom far more dramatically than it is, and up toward the lid as well. Heck, angle it out right and left a bit while we're at it, too! That would make the 'shelf' more of a ramp (less accumulation, therefore less clumping) and far easier to clean on a per dose basis, as well. Instead of disassembling either of the dosers on the Majors like I should, I'll ask those that have spent more time in there than I have. How much 'meat' is left around that doser hole before you start to get into the motor housing. Could an enthusiastic modder bevel that chute down to thirty or forty-five degrees, or would additional material have to be added?