Macap MXK or Mazzer Kony? - Page 4

[Teme]

I found this picture of a Kony mod on a German coffee forum. Definitely cheaper than the Mini-E funnel + you would retain the option of converting back to stock specs more easily if you so desire (e.g. if you get static/clumping problems)

Here's the link to the thread on that forum for those who understand German: click here

Br,
Teme

[Rainman]

Great idea... Just gotta figure out what it all means (and where to find some sheet metal)-- the German translation always amuses me:

Per Worldlingo.com-

"hello chris,

mad pictures, mad idea - thanks! now one could the metering unit still darken that one does not see the funnel from the outside

perhaps I make also again to interiorlive myself mine dosierers to cannibalize (a little as with old Werner comics, where those half of the engine with tinker on the garbage lands and the machine afterwards nevertheless better funtkioniert...)"

Too funny!

Thanks, Teme.

Ray

[k7qz]

Hi guys:

Another point I've noticed with Mr. Kony. He seems to benefit from a little more frequent cleaning intervals than my Mini did.

With my Mini-E, I'd disassemble it every couple or three weeks (collar, burr carriers etc.) clean the burrs down with dental picks, shop-vac it out, re-assemble and all was well. As long as I did this once or twice a month I didn't seem to build up much residual grinds on the burrs and sweeps.

The Kony seems to build up a layer of espresso on its inner sanctum quicker than its mini brother. I don't know if this is just a quirk of: A) Conicals or B) Low speed grinders but my Kony seems to benefit from shop-vac therapy on a weekly basis rather than waiting for 2 or 3 weeks.

Fortunately the Kony is even easier to strip down than my Mini-E was (and the latter wasn't all that hard) as the collar tension springs do not seem to be as heavily loaded by the Kony's collar. If it's a 10 minute job on the Mini, it's a 5 minute job on the Kony. Everything is way bigger and easier/faster to clean, e.g. the burrs are huge on Mr. Kony so an old toothbrush works just fine instead of nit-picking the burr grooves with a dental tool like I did with my Mini. The Mini-E also had that wire static grid in the way of cleaning out the exit chute which I found to be a pain. Not so the Kony-

Anyway Ray and Ko, I thought I'd throw this out as it may be something you want to keep an eye on-

Hey, BTW Ko, how are the "Rainman Mods" coming?

-Michael

[Ko]

Oh, BTW Ko, sorry for the confusion. I signed my post best as in best regards as I was too lazy to finish it out. My name is Michael. No worries though as my wife thinks I'm the "Best" Michael anyway...

Oh stupid me...

Hey, BTW Ko, how are the "Rainman Mods" coming?

Did the Rainman Mods in 20mins. I had a little hard time getting the hopper out of the collar, those darn plastic fastener. Cleaning the chute out is so much easier now.

[Rainman]

Hi guys:

Another point I've noticed with Mr. Kony. He seems to benefit from a little more frequent cleaning intervals than my Mini did.

-Michael

Darn! ...and I was hoping given the rather vertical slop of the burrs, gravity would work better in our favor... I'll take it apart after this morning's session. I've never owned a Mazzer before, and I'm wondering how many revolutions there are to getting the grind adjustment collar off... does it go back together easy enough so you can find your old spot if you remember where it was?

Ray

[HB]

Hmm-m, I haven't counted the number of revolutions - around eight maybe? The Macap is a lot more. I mark the Mazzer's collar with a lab pen. It's easy to return to the same spot after a cleaning.

[k7qz]

Darn! ...and I was hoping given the rather vertical slop of the burrs, gravity would work better in our favor... I'll take it apart after this morning's session. I've never owned a Mazzer before, and I'm wondering how many revolutions there are to getting the grind adjustment collar off... does it go back together easy enough so you can find your old spot if you remember where it was?

Ray

Dunno, haven't ever counted. Dan may be right- 8 or so revolutions?

I count collar "notches" to the users left of the factory sticker black triangle point. For me and my double ristretto habit, (depending on my blend) I'm usually running in the neighborhood of 3 or 4 notches finer than the factory mark. (off the subject but I have to wonder how Mazzer gets this reference point. If I use it I get the worst looking blond gusher...)

I have never bothered to count revolutions, simply spin the collar off, clean up, re-assemble and spin the collar back down. After several revolutions you'll feel the spring stiffen and after a little more tightening down (gently) on the collar, the burrs will lightly touch as the upper and lower burrs contact. That's your zero point. I now back off the collar to my 3 or 4 notches in the finer direction from the factory setting mark and I'm right back in the narrow ballpark again.

As you already know, the collar is reverse threaded. When you are replacing the collar, spin it in the "looser" direction (CW) for a partial revolution and you'll feel the collar threads drop into place (with a slight click). Now spin the collar back on to tighten it down (CCW direction) until you feel the burrs touch lightly. Back it off to your prior setting and you're done.

The threads seem to engage at or about the same spot every time for me, so my "notches" always have come right back to their original setting each time. (Cleaned the Mini maybe 50 times and the Kony's about 6 or 8 times now) Even if this weren't the case, I'm constantly adjusting the grinder setting anyway (as I switch blends often throughout any espresso session to compare one to the next). Thus I've never worried if the notches aren't perfectly the same because I compensate automatically to optimize the shot without getting too caught up in absolute "notch" numerology. Fortunately, it's turned out to be a non-issue for me.

If you're not sure about this, use Dan's "make a mark" suggestion to prove it to yourself-

[Rainman]

You guys were right- I don't think I was in there for more than about 6 or 7 minutes. I just placed a piece of masking tape and marked that with a Sharpie to line up the collar w/ the arrow on the machine. It took 4-1/2 turns to remove it, then some quickie brushing, then turbo-vacuuming and voila! Clean as a whistle. Stuff really does cake up on the inside of that burr chamber, and like you said- weekly cleaning is probably in order. While I had it apart, I took special notice of the build quality of the burr carriers- that upper assembly weighs almost as much as the E61 group on my Brewtus!

Ray

[Ko]

The threads seem to engage at or about the same spot every time for me, so my "notches" always have come right back to their original setting each time.

I agree that the threads seem to engage at about the same spot each time I put it back together. I have maybe done it 5 or 6 times. It did surprise me the first few times but thought that Mazzer engineered the threads that way. But with my Rocky, I have to do the whole "zero point setup" everytime I take it apart for cleaning.

[Rainman]

I found this picture of a Kony mod on a German coffee forum. Definitely cheaper than the Mini-E funnel + you would retain the option of converting back to stock specs more easily if you so desire (e.g. if you get static/clumping problems)

Here's the link to the thread on that forum for those who understand German: click here

Br,
Teme

I talked briefly with the folks over at espressoparts.com, and the back plate is not available for the Kony-- the others are just a bit too short and would leave about a 1cm gap near the top. With that in mind, I think the sheet-metal insert is the best (and cheapest by far!).. I don't think the German site gave much of a "how to", but I'm assuming he just went at it w/ a piece of sheet-metal and some tin snips.. hope I don't shred my fingers trying to morph it into a cone.

Pics coming when I get some spare time.

Ray

[jesawdy]

With that in mind, I think the sheet-metal insert is the best (and cheapest by far!).. I don't think the German site gave much of a "how to", but I'm assuming he just went at it w/ a piece of sheet-metal and some tin snips.. hope I don't shred my fingers trying to morph it into a cone.

How about a sheet of acetate or similar thin plastic sheet (or laminated paper, like an old placemat or something equally undeserving of being crammed in a $1000 grinder )? That would allow for some simpler fine tuning of the pattern if nothing else.

[Rainman]

How about a sheet of acetate or similar thin plastic sheet (or laminated paper, like an old placemat or something equally undeserving of being crammed in a $1000 grinder )? That would allow for some simpler fine tuning of the pattern if nothing else.

I know- it's probably a crime in Italy to do all this to these Mazzers, but function is more important- and I'm doing my best to keep all mods reversible. I like the acetate sheet idea, and I think we've got that handy at work.

[TomP10]

I think about upgrading from my Rocky every day. But, my cabinets are only 17inches high from the countertop. The only way these grinders would work for my kitchen is without the bean hopper. I am wondering about the body height of these grinders (even without the hopper).

Can anyone of you folks tell me the height of these grinders (in particular, the Macaps)?

- Tom

[Teme]

Can anyone of you folks tell me the height of these grinders (in particular, the Macaps)?

The smaller Macap conical, i.e. the MXK (or MXKR) is just over 13" tall without the hopper.

Br,
Teme

[Ko]

Can anyone of you folks tell me the height of these grinders (in particular, the Macaps)?

The Kony is 26" with the hopper, 15.5" without the hopper and 17.5" with the collar but without the clear plastic hopper (Rainman Mod).


Ko

[Teme]

Hi,

To those who have done the Rainman mods to the Kony, how does the on/off/start switch work after the mods? I.e. when turning from off (0) to on (1), does the grinder start grinding or do you have to nudge it further forwards to actually start the grind? I am still struggling with my grinder upgrade and if I were to go for the Kony, I would be adding an external grind timer. This is where the operation of the switch comes in as I would like the grinder the "on" all the time and the grinding would purely be controlled by the timer...

Br,
Teme

[Ko]

I.e. when turning from off (0) to on (1), does the grinder start grinding or do you have to nudge it further forwards to actually start the grind?

It still works exactly the same as a stock version which is "0" being the OFF position, "1" being the Standby position and START position (starts grinding) is by nudging it futher forward. After starting the grinder, the switch springs back to the "1" position. The "1" position (Standby) is used when you "thwack" (for lack of a better word or if this is a word ) the doser lever about 5 - 10 times (providing the doser is empty) which would activate the grinder to start grinding. Just FYI because I doubt you would need it in a home setting.

A little rewiring job should allow you to get the "1" position as START. The timer mod would be nice to have but me no electrician... But if you were to choose the Kony and do the timer mod, please post how to either here or your blog.

Good luck with your grinder upgrade!


Ko "Very happy with my Kony"

[k7qz]

The "1" position (Standby) is used when you "thwack" (for lack of a better word or if this is a word )

Hey Ko, I think the term "wack" is used unless you are in mixed company then one should always use the term "thwack" instead...

Teme, after the aforementioned mods, you really end up with two "off" settings: 0 and 1. The "Start" setting remains unchanged. I measure by volume (sorry to all you dose by weight purists), dump the charged PF double basket I have for said volumetric dosing purposes into my short Mini Hopper and begin to "wack". ("thwack" if there are ladies present...) during the time the big conical is happily grinding away my dosed shot. Once my basket is heaped full, I reach over and flip the switch back a click (to 0) which shuts her down.

This is nothing new to anyone here with a doser grinder but my "wacking" during grinding seems to nix the need for the WDT, particularly given the uniform grind spewing forth from this conical. (especially if I move the PF around a bit to evenly disperse the grinds).

[Teme]

My experience with doser grinders has so far been limited to manual and timer versions, but not automatics. Hence the question. Thanks for the clarifications.

A little rewiring job should allow you to get the "1" position as START. The timer mod would be nice to have but me no electrician...

I guess there would be two ways of achieving this. Firstly, I assume one could take out the switch, take the wire originally leading to the "START" position and move it to the "1" position (also retaining the original wire in the "1" position). The second alternative would be to short the sensor in the bottom of the doser that initiates the grind after the barista does some "thwacking" (meaning: connect the wires leading into and out of the sensor). Again, this is an assumption. Can anyone confirm?

Good luck with your grinder upgrade!

Thanks. I have actually made my decision and I am just waiting to get a confirmation on if it will work out. My decision may actually be a bit surprising An update is to follow on the CG thread. Very soon...

Br,
Teme

[HughF]

>snip<
Anyway, I was in touch with Macap directly yesterday and they confirmed that all MXK grinders they build are automatics (at least for the European market). However, they also noted that they could build a manual (or timer) version of the MXK if one so desires.
>snip<

That's odd - I wanted a timer MXK but couldn't get one, their Web site doesn't show anything other than manual (one big On-Off switch) and I checked this with Macap via my UK dealer. Mine is definitely manual - it arrived in December 2006 I think.

Cheers,

Hugh