Levers and SO coffee

[srobinson]

I wanted to start a new thread to talk about enjoying Single Origin coffees on the lever machines. I am beginning to believe that a great lever and a SO is a decedent combination. Tony over at Caffe Fresco had send me some great Datera Reserve that he is working on. Chuck has tempted me twice with some outstanding Yemen and Dave (rockygag) just sent me some great Tanzania AAA that is peaking right now. Tony has some new coffee coming to me and Chuck has promised me a refill in the new year and will try to put up some good posts on what I am currently drinking. I wanted to share with you some pics of Dave's homeroasting prowess since his coffee is peaking right now.

Here are the notes on this one from Sweet Marias:

Notes: It's good to have a little background information on Tanzanian coffees; A good Tanzanian coffee from the North can be a treat, but many lots that arrive in the U.S. never had a chance. The Northern coffees are grown near Kenya (Mt. Kilimanjaro) and bear that out in the cup: more acidity, lighter body. But the Southern district coffees from the mountains of the northeast rim of Lake Malawi are full bodied, have milder acidity, and extremely long in the aftertaste. The problem with Tanzanian Peaberry has less to do with where it is from and the original cup quality it possesses. Poor cup character is the result of poor transportation routes to port, and while at port the shipping container that is delayed from leaving the country can bake the coffee in the humid, blistering sun ...not good. So even a good Tanzanian coffee can go bad en route. The result are harsh, baggy flavors in the cup. This flatbean coffee shows none of that, and is a sweet coffee without much of the characteristic East African hidey character. What amazed me is I cupped this with a table of 17 Auction Lot Kenyas (the powerhouse E. African coffee) and it was my favorite. What struck me was this very aromatic Dutch cocoa quality in the cup, which really came out alongside some very citrusy, acidic Kenyas. It has vanilla hints, moderate brightness and a lighter body than last years crop. There are floral (rose) aromas as it cools to, and the chocolate -vanilla quality remains lively and soft (not bittersweet or harsh). This lot can really take a wide range of roasts and display a slightly different character in each, from a bright, light-bodied City roast to a pretty pungent Vienna, I would say it has multiple personalities but in a way this lends itself to the craft of roasting, and your interpretation of the coffee! I plan on having some real fun in the Probat with this one...

Here's a view of Dave's handiwork...smaller size bean and a not a full roast. Dave I will let you append on how you tackled this bean:



As it got to me it still needed some degassing, but it really came together today. As an espresso shot, I am getting very good crema and a bit lighter color than the heavier blends that I use as a daily coffee. The body on this is light, with a good earthy undertone and a light chocolate/vanilla aftertaste that really stays with you. It will take a tighter grind (8 on the Rocky...reference point is 10 for Black Cat) and on the Olympia I did my deeper older basket, about a 12 second pre-infusion and about one and a quarter pull.



So my challenge to the board is to see if we can do some education on coffee instead of just machines. Dan has a coffee forum, but I would like to see what you are drinking, how you are pulling them and if you are home-roasting how are your treating your SOs. News about blends are fine, but I have a selfish interest in SOs. So let's pay it forward and use this as an opportunity to educate everyone on what you are drinking.

[another_jim]

I use only the Peppina for "espresso-cupping" since the clearer taste helps.

[KarlSchneider]

Steve,

This is a great idea. I am at the moment away from home, away from my Elektra and drinking my own roast Ethiopian and Yemen done in a Mr. Coffee. Condolences accepted.

The Tanzanian notes encourage me to try some in my next order from Sweet Maria's. I do not recall ever having a Tanzanian coffee.

On the issue of lever machines and SO coggees I can report that my own experience matches your suggestion of great reciprocity. I happily lived with a Giotto for two and a half years and I almost always had espresso made from blends. I liked three of Tom's at SM's. I started with his Classic Espresso. Then picked up his Monkey Blend and finally added his Moka Kadir blend to my regular espresso roasts. Each had a distinct profile in the Giotto and I chose one or the other as my mood directed. I would roast a max of 7 days worth. I typically roast every weekend. I did occasional SO's but rarely when I had the Giotto.

A little under 5 months ago "Niccolo Amati" replaced the Giotto as my only machine. One of the first things I noticed was that my espresso pantheon of Classic Espresso / Monkey Blend / Moka Kadir did not seem to reach the same level of excitement. In each blend I get what to me tastes a bit unfocused. The clear lines are gone. The lovely bright, rich chocolate I got from Classic Espresso seemed a bit dull. At first all I noticed was when I chose the next week's beans for roasting I choose these standards less and less. This lack of excitement also applies to a 50/50 blend I make of Sulawesi + Monsooned Indians. At the same time I noticed that I choose more and more often SO's. At the top of my list have been SM's Yemeni. Up until recently I had three different Yemeni -- a Sana'ani, a Mattari Muslot and an Ismaili Hirazi. One week I had some of all three and loved having them one after another in what I thought of as a three part musical composition. The Sana'ani has become my favorite with its great elegance. This isn't heavy flavor. I suspect it is similar to what Steve talks about in his Tanzania.

In addition to the Yemeni coffees I have also loved two SM Ethopians, both dry processed. One is a Sidamo and other a Ghimbi. These seem to give espresso of great distinctive flavor. I should emphasize that I am talking about straight espresso done with a single basket and with a single pull. I think my doses are ca. 7 g (I almost never weight them) and the pulls are 30 ml.

Another thing I have noted is that my SO preferences do not extend to dry processed Brazil's. I have about 4 recent SM Brazils and I have yet to get an espresso shot from them I really like. They seem dull and lacking structured flavors as do the blends coming from the lever.

One final note for now. In the morning I make myself an Americano. Here the coffees mentioned above that I do not like as espressi (SM's three blends and their Brazils) I do like very much as Americani. To complicate the report more, I also like the Yemeni and Ethiopian SO's as Americani. I also like Sumatra Aged Lintong and Mandehling as Americani from Niccolo Amati.

My next steps will be to play more with the ones I do not like. I am thinking of roasting them less dark -- I typically go a good minute into the second crack on my Hottop. I am also planning to try changing grind and tamp combinations.

[KarlSchneider]

I wanted to start a new thread to talk about enjoying Single Origin coffees on the lever machines.

As it got to me it still needed some degassing, but it really came together today. As an espresso shot, I am getting very good crema and a bit lighter color than the heavier blends that I use as a daily coffee. The body on this is light, with a good earthy undertone and a light chocolate/vanilla aftertaste that really stays with you. It will take a tighter grind (8 on the Rocky...reference point is 10 for Black Cat) and on the Olympia I did my deeper older basket, about a 12 second pre-infusion and about one and a quarter pull..

As a home roaster for just over 3 years my habits with de-gassing have evolved. For a long time I started using fresh beans as early as 8 hours after roasting. I learned from this that each coffee has its own pattern of "aging." All develop more and more flavor for up to 3 days. I wanted to follow this pattern carefully. Now I do not bother trying anything for at least 30 hours -- except when I try a kind of coffee I have never had before. In general one seems to get too vague a picture of what will eventually develop. Both flavor complexity and body typically increase. Acidity seems to go in both directions.

Yemen SO's are in my experience the slowest to develop -- never peaking before the third day. The Ethopians evolve slightly more quickly. The Brazil's are faster than the Africans and Indonesians.

The other side of this equation is that after 7 days virtually all of them lose a significant amount of their singularity. I can at this point separate Ethopians from Yemeni but I cannot separate clearly a Yemen Sana'ani from an Ismaili Hirazi. I think it was H. Warner Allen, one of the great British wine writers who said, "You can call an old wine anything you want." Old wines and old coffees all taste more like each other than different from each other.

I would also add to Steve's comment about different SO's taking different grinds that this grind setting is complicated not only by degree of roast but also by degree of maturity. I find that I grind ever-so-slightly more finely as a batch matures.

[Rockygag]

Some Comments on the Tanzania:

It was roasted in a SC/CO combination. The heater on the SC is disabled. I roast in a garage with the door open. The ambient happened to be much lower than usual here in Houston, around 50F or so. I do not preheat the SC/CO as a general rule, but in this case, I had done a batch before.

Right now, I am roasting more or less based only on what I see/smell/hear. I do have a digital thermometer, and I have tried to get a few profiles together, but with the kit I have I have never been able to get really consistent temperature control. ( Think VARIAC in the near future, look for dead band in the forums!) . That said my roasting method is turn CO to 500 and let the beans ramp to just the first noise of first crack, power off, lift lid, listen till cracks just die, then add some heat, repeat until end of first crack. --- Once the first is over, back to full heat. --- Second starts, for this SO roasting for someone I didn't know, I decided to stop at what I thought was full city. From Steve's comments, it seems to be a good guess. I am clearly not a pro at this, but I do look at SM's color cards, and that seems about right in comparison. For my self with this coffee, and most others in fact, I go just a touch past the end of second. I use the same add heat lift lid method. I like the oil just to show on a small percentage of beans. For those of you who home roast, I try to stop just at the end of the first wave of acrid smoke. ( If you don't roast, that's a really tough one to explain ) So I try to stretch the gap between first a second a bit. ---- Steve asked for a SO, so I sent him one. However, for my self, I really prefer about 25% Indian coffees with the balance African to make my espresso blend.

The Indian is a mix of 1/2 robusta and half Monsooned malabar. That, I roast MUCH lighter than the base coffee. Say just into rolling first crack.

I cool the beans on a cookie baking sheet.

Degassing is in silver (mylar?) valve bags.

I find that I do have to grind finer as the coffee ages, the Oly seems to take a little finer grind than the Gaggia. I have a Mazzer at home, and in general I think the coffee at home is better than at work where I have a Rocky/Expobar. I was grinding too coarse until I won the coffees off this site for my entry into their last contest. Counter culture sent some great SO coffees, and I was getting crap crema, and then I started tweaking the grind. I am two clicks finer on Rocky and about 12 degrees on the mazzer than when I started. ( This confirms the conventional wisdom, Fresh beans, Great grinder, any machine = good in the cup )

Hope the holiday season treats you all well.

Best;

Dave

[KarlSchneider]

Hi Dave,

Even though I have a Hottop and thus a quite different tool I find your notes of real interest. One thing we roasters might do is indicate degree of roast by calculating the % of weight loss in the beans. I weight beans before and after each batch and record these in my roasting log. I typically get an 18-19% reduction in weight when I roast a minute into the second crack. It would be nice to use pictures but I am not sure how far we can push the interpretation of color in web-based images.

I roast in my workshop which is an uunheated free-standing building that also houses our two cats. In Ohio I roast at low ambient tems of 0 and highs in the 80's. I do not find that even this great range has a huge effect on roast times. I also record times from start to first crack, seecond crack and dump in my roasting log. My times are typically 16-18 min (ca. 15 mim. to first + 2 min to second + 1 min. to end). A Hottop does not allow for temp adjustment in normal mode. I like to get beans to a rapid second crack (which is more like a snap). I think this is darker than your preference.

[KarlSchneider]

I wanted to start a new thread to talk about enjoying Single Origin coffees on the lever machines. I am beginning to believe that a great lever and a SO is a decedent combination.

In support of Steve's desire to develop a thread on enjoying SO coffees and lever machines i can report the following tonight. Before I proceed I must point out that it is often said that telling university profs what to do is like herding cats. I am not as requested going to post pics of either the beans or the shots. Following my own post suggesting we all need to learn how better to express in words what we taste I will describe the coffee in question and what I taste.

The coffee tonight was Sulawesi Toraja Grade 1 from Sweet Marias roasted on Monday afternoon. It was roasted slowly in a Hottop to a Medium French Roast of 18.3% weight loss. All three shots were done with ca 7 gm (not weighed) in a standard Elektra single 49-mm basket. The first shot ran a bit too fast at ca. 19 sec. The dominant flavor was of a stony quality. There was little aroma from the cup. The finish was best of all with a clear but simple chocolate quality. The second shot ran also as fast although I had set the Mazzer finer. Obviously less tamp pressure. The color of the crema was actually darker as is usual with my Elektra. Either finer grind or heavier tamp make for darker crema. Flavor in the mouth was similar to the stones of the first with less chocolate in the finish. The third shot was again more finely ground and the tamp was a bit heavier. The aroma of this one was much better. Clear aromatics. The time of the shot was a much better 30 sec. I find that time of shot on an Elektra with its pre-set spring pressure is quite important. In this shot I was able to get more complexity of flavor. The stones were still there but now they were accompanied by a vegetable flavor close to potato but not quite that. I want to say rutabaga but I am not confident I know rutabaga well enough. These were all quite nice espressi. They did not reach the transparency of the best but they surely were heading in the direction of singular distinction. They tasted like coffee grown in some definite place more specifiable than "Indonesia." This one set invites me to work through several days of a Sulawesi. I do not have more of this batch but will return for more observation

KS

[KarlSchneider]

A different SO this evening. This one was a SM's Brazil Fazenda Santa Helena. This is a natural pulped coffee as recommended by malachi in his SO tasting notes. Mine was roasted on Monday as the Sulawesi above. This was reduced 17.8% by weight so not as "dark" as the Sulawesi.

First cup was pulled in a good time of 30 sec. The first sip was incredible. Immediately there was this wonderful chocolate essence. Not really in the aroma but in the beginning of the sip and through the end of the first sip and through the final two sips. So very different from the Sulawesi. This one is all chocolate. No stones, no root vegetable flavor. The Sualwesi had a thick somewhat muddled taste quite appropriate with vegetables. The Brazil had no such soft thickness. It was utterly clear and focused chocolate. This was by far the best Brazil SO I have ever tasted. The first Brazil to excite me. Finally I get a glimpse of why malachi praises them. It is now 20 + minutes after the third cup and there is still this delightful delicate chocolate taste in my mouth.

The second cup was a similar 30 sec pull. As almost always no match of quality. Everything was lightened. Nothing bad but overall lacking. I think the major issue was heat. As anyone who follows the Elektra story knows there is a lingering heat problem. I noticed that the coffee was hotter in the cup than the first one.

The third cup was a comparative disaster. As Steve has noted the Elektra is unforgiving with overdosing. I overdosed and was not forgiven. Realizing my mistake I tamped harder and got the pf locked in place. But then the pull was too slow. So as my recent habit, when I note a slow flow I do a second pull on the lever because it allows for faster flow. But the result was thin and too hot.

One exciting shot.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

Still another SO this evening. This was a SM's Yemen Mokha Sana'ani roasted a bit darker than my usual - to 19.6% weight loss. This one has rested over 4 days and is near the peak for Yemeni beans which seem to me to get to their peak more slowly.

First shot was my usual in a single basket and a target 25 sec from the time I release the lever until it reaches the top of its travel. I usually do a 10 - 12 sec pre-infusion. I prefer to see a few drips before I release the lever. No distinctive aroma before the first sip but there was pleasant aroma. The sip was pure Yemen and I must confess my favorite of all flavors for espresso. I think one has to separate weight of the coffee from concentration of flavor. This is a somewhat light-bodied feel in the mouth. But the intensity or concentration of flavor is superb. In wine one hears the phrase "iron fist in a silk glove." That is the Sana'ani I had tonight. Also Yemeni SO's have a complexity of flavor that far surpasses either the Sulawesi or the Brazil of the past two evenings. The Sulawesi had a clear but simple stone/root vegetable taste and the Brazil had pure chocolate which was in its simplicity closer to Herseys than to fine Belgian or Swiss chocolate. The Yemen has layers. It does not need anything added. All one want to do here is as I suggested elsewhere to let the character of the bean itself fully and clearly express itself. Richard Olney says the same kind of thing about roast beef. Good beef roasted properly needs no marinade, no flavorings. It is by itself as good as it can be. Other meats get better with marinades or herb flavorings. So do many coffees get better by blending. Not Yemeni beans in my experience.

For the second cup I concentrated on getting as close to the first as possible. I succeeded rather well. Another 25 sec. pull and another classic Yemeni SO espresso.

So for the third I decided to experiment. But wanting only a small change I decided to leave the grinder as is and to tamp harder. I got a slower pull to no surprise of 35 sec. The crema was indeed darker. And most different of all was the taste. There was more weight in the coffee itself. In addition there was a softer texture. I am wondering if this is part of the much reported mouth feel. Added to the heavier weight and softer taste profile was for me a decrease of clarity in taste. The complexity was less dramatic. Like a picture just a tad out of focus. I have to admit preferring the first two shots.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

Another thing I have noted is that my SO preferences do not extend to dry processed Brazil's. I have about 4 recent SM Brazils and I have yet to get an espresso shot from them I really like. They seem dull and lacking structured flavors as do the blends coming from the lever.

Although this was true when I wrote it I must now revise my comments. Last week I roasted a Brazil Fazenda Santa Helena. This week I am drinking Sul de Minas Yellow Bourbon. These are natural pulped Brazil coffees. The other two Brazil's I refer to are not natural pulped. These two latest batches were also roasted darker than hitherto. This is always a dilemma for me. I know i prefer darker roasts. But others often recommend lighter roasts. I give in (to the "experts") and roast less dark. And almost always am disappointed. These latest two Brazils have been roasted dark enough. And I have to admit that I love the taste. It is exciting. In both cases the taste is dominated by chocolate. They are quite different chocolates but emphatically chocolate even if also delicate. They still lack the full complexity of a Yemen but in their own place they are wonderful. And until two weeks ago I had missed this.

Was it malachi who said, "The problem is on the near side of the roaster."

KS

[espressoperson]

This is always a dilemma for me. I know i prefer darker roasts. But others often recommend lighter roasts. I give in (to the "experts") and roast less dark. And almost always am disappointed.

There was no dilemma when I first started roasting. Sweet Maria's Monkey from morning till after lunch, then Donkey afternoon and evening. Typically roasted 30 sec into 2nd, sometimes just to beginning of 2nd, and very occasionally to rolling 2nd for a Vienna plus or French roast.

Then I decided to explore varietals. Tom offers wonderful beans and wonderful sounding descriptions of coffees from around the world. They were too tempting to pass up. I started buying and using them but I decided to pursue the varietal taste, which to me meant a divergence from espresso. The best roast level (and even style of roasting) for maximizing varietal taste seems to be different than for espresso in many if not most SOs. Much as I love espresso and prefer it as my first choice of drink, I started to roast the SOs for brewing French press, vacuum, and Americanos. Of course I am still consuming my share of Monkey and Donkey as espresso.

I am just now on the verge of wanting to explore the SOs as espresso. I have been pulling SO shots from these varietals all along, but interestingly, because I am not trying to maximize them for espresso, I have no expectations. So the SO espresso experience has been more of an education in SO taste than than a pursuit of SO espresso excellence. Notable successes so far: Ethiopian Harar and Ghimbi, Yemen Ismaili, Sulawesi, Tanzania, Sumatra. Notable disappointments so far: Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, Costa Rica LM. Lots more varieties coming up soon but I am trying to use up these older first-in beans before moving on to the waiting Brazils, Panamas, and other later purchases.

I really appreciate your reports. My lack of response till now is more a reflection of lack of intelligent things to say rather than a lack of interest. I hope you will continue to share your experiences. One piece of information that I would find more useful than % weight loss would be the degree of roast relative to cracks. I think that would be more helpful information for me to relate to the degree of roast you are achieving.

Was it malachi who said, "The problem is on the near side of the roaster."

I'm afraid you'll have to take the credit for that quote.

[KarlSchneider]

espressoperson said ...

I really appreciate your reports. My lack of response till now is more a reflection of lack of intelligent things to say rather than a lack of interest. I hope you will continue to share your experiences. One piece of information that I would find more useful than % weight loss would be the degree of roast relative to cracks. I think that would be more helpful information for me to relate to the degree of roast you are achieving.

Thanks for the encouragement. Allow me to disagree with the suggestion that you "lack intelligent things to say." Since I read your post two days ago i have been having an on-going discussion with you. Here is one of the parts.


"Then I decided to explore varietals. Tom offers wonderful beans and wonderful sounding descriptions of coffees from around the world. They were too tempting to pass up. I started buying and using them but I decided to pursue the varietal taste, which to me meant a divergence from espresso. The best roast level (and even style of roasting) for maximizing varietal taste seems to be different than for espresso in many if not most SOs. Much as I love espresso and prefer it as my first choice of drink, I started to roast the SOs for brewing French press, vacuum, and Americanos.

I have been thinking a lot about this proposal. What intrigues me is the fact that my experience is just the opposite. I find that the highest way to express the unique quality of an SO is precisely in an espresso. I love the concentrated essence of flavor I get from each separate coffee in espresso form. I also think a lever machine allows this expression of pure flavor essence better than other kinds of espresso machines (specifically my Giotto). When I try the same coffees in french press or Americani I find less pure expression of taste. I do still like SO's in Americani because I get to follow the tastes as the coffee cools and there is a whole story to be observed in that progression. But in espresso I love those two or three perfect sips and the long finish and echoing of the original.

As I wondered about our different preferences last night I happened to be listening to Wilhelm Furtwangler conducting Wagner's Trauermarsch. It was an incomparable performance. But I was also thinking of how I also love Toscanini conducting the same piece and it is so wholly different. I must have a dozen different performances of this music and they each have a distinct quality. I suspect the same difference applies to espresso.

In a different thread I have mentioned how I prefer a single basket / single pull for the espressi I make on my Elektra. This preference is driven by my focus on the creation of maximum individual coffee flavor. I do not focus on crema. I do not focus on thickness of mouthfeel. These differences of emphasis seem like the difference between Furtwangler and Toscanini and Chally each conducting the same Wagner music. The same piece can come out very differently.

So, at least for me you give much to think about.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

espressopperson asked ...

One piece of information that I would find more useful than % weight loss would be the degree of roast relative to cracks. I think that would be more helpful information for me to relate to the degree of roast you are achieving.

when I first started roasting. Sweet Maria's Monkey from morning till after lunch, then Donkey afternoon and evening. Typically roasted 30 sec into 2nd, sometimes just to beginning of 2nd, and very occasionally to rolling 2nd for a Vienna plus or French roast.

I agree that % weight loss makes "sense" only if you also calculate the same number for your own. I also note the relative time in relation to second crack and can always report that. My roasts I am fairly sure are all darker than yours. I almost always go at least 1 min. into 2nd crack. I typically take roasts intended only for espressi fully into a rolling 2nd crack. When I stop just at 2nd I am almost always disappointed.

Notable successes so far: Ethiopian Harar and Ghimbi, Yemen Ismaili, Sulawesi, Tanzania, Sumatra. Notable disappointments so far: Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, Costa Rica LM.

On this list we are in much agreement. I have Yemeni at the zenith for me with Ethiopian Ghimbi and dry-processed Sidamo close seconds. Have never gotten Harar quite right but I continue to try. Right now I have an Aged Sumatra Lintong and a Sumatra Volkopi (both to rolling 2nd) which in this morning's Americani were very balanced with the original earthiness now surrounded by rich softness (that wasn't there earlier) at 5 / 7 days respectively. Will try them as espressi tonight.

Never succeeded in liking a Yirgacheffe or a Central American of any kind as an espresso.

KS

[espressoperson]

I have been thinking a lot about this proposal. What intrigues me is the fact that my experience is just the opposite. I find that the highest way to express the unique quality of an SO is precisely in an espresso. I love the concentrated essence of flavor I get from each separate coffee in espresso form. I also think a lever machine allows this expression of pure flavor essence better than other kinds of espresso machines (specifically my Giotto). When I try the same coffees in french press or Americani I find less pure expression of taste. I do still like SO's in Americani because I get to follow the tastes as the coffee cools and there is a whole story to be observed in that progression. But in espresso I love those two or three perfect sips and the long finish and echoing of the original.

While our experiences and approach to SOs are different, I don't think they are based on our differing appreciation of espresso. I agree with you that espresso is the ultimate coffee. When I sip a well made espresso I am content and don't want or need another shot for a while. However, when I have a cup of coffee, I immediately want another cup. Good as it is, it just doesn't satisfy in the same way.

Where we may differ is that I've been pursuing the SO profile first, the SO espresso second. First learn what the SO has to offer in the cup. What better way to try all SOs and not just those that are compatible with espresso. And what better way to learn what flavors to pursue in espresso by knowing all that an SO at its sweet spot has to offer.

Also, for me, there is a historical reason. It is partly a reaction to decades of drinking French Roast espresso. That was all there was, that was all that I knew. So I am now belatedly learning to enjoy what lighter roasts have to offer, for espresso and especially for these new SOs. I know this phase won't last forever because the occasional times I roast darker, or try SOs as espresso, I really enjoy the results. in the meantime I'll just have to be content with my Monkey blend with the occasional dabbling in SOs and vicarious enjoyment through you, and other pursuers of SO espresso.

In a different thread I have mentioned how I prefer a single basket / single pull for the espressi I make on my Elektra. This preference is driven by my focus on the creation of maximum individual coffee flavor. I do not focus on crema. I do not focus on thickness of mouthfeel. These differences of emphasis seem like the difference between Furtwangler and Toscanini and Chally each conducting the same Wagner music. The same piece can come out very differently.

Hmmm. I've never used my single basket in all the years I've been making espresso. Never heard a good reason to even consider using it ---- until now. Literally produce a taste of espresso!

I read your other post and expect the first time I tried it, my single results would be close to your double results.

So, at least for me you give much to think about.KS

Likewise.

[KarlSchneider]

vicarious enjoyment through you, and other pursuers of SO espresso.

I mentioned above that I have never quite made Ethiopian Harar quite right as espresso. I think I am abut to change that. Tonight I had 30 hours from the roaster Wthiopia FTO Harar Oromia Coop fro Sweet Maria's. My notes say 50 sec into 2nd crack = 17.8% weight reduction or a good rolling 2nd crack. It is hard to say when the cracks start on these coffees. Exquisite processing on coffees like La Minita makes the cracks uniform. I find Yemeni and Ethiopian coffees to start cracks very non-uniformly.

But, oh, he coffee! Tom (from SM's) says he gets "rustic chocolate" and I find this a fine way to start talking about the taste. I am not getting the standard African earthiness (but it may still come). But there is a depth and strength here already that is separate. It keeps up with your meditation to steal a phrase from George Saintsbury. Already as complex as a Ghimbi or a Sidamo. Not as elegant as a Yemen Sana'ani but what is. 45 min after i can still find traces in the corners of my mouth.

Do try it.

KS

[espressoperson]

I keep reading this forum and the few other serious coffee related sites because of the continuing opportunity to find ways to improve my espresso making. My latest improvement has been with decaf espresso. I have previously complained that roasted decaf beans start off OK but quickly deteriorate over 3 - 5 days to produce inferior espresso. Shots start off OK but in a few days produce dripping after just a few seconds of preinfusion, channeling, and premature blonding. I attributed this to the deterioration of the decaf coffee, and turned most of my pours into Americanos, or stayed away from the espresso machine completely in the evening and made press pot or vacuum coffee.

But, now, thanks to Malachi's attempts to open our eyes (and all other senses too) to the espresso experience, I had a breakthrough about the importance of dosing by volume. Once I started observing what my consistent dose of 15 g was doing in the basket it was so obvious that the decaf was way underdosed. I started increasing the dose and my shots improved dramatically. No more preinfusion drip, no more channeling. My decaf espresso has again started matching my reg espresso in quality and taste.

Because of the bullying (err... encouragement :-) I've been receiving in this thread I've been reviving my after dinner espresso habit. Tonight I had 4 day post roast Decaf Costa Rica La Lapa from Terroir Coffee. Stopped about 20 sec into 2nd crack, with 14.8% drop in weight. The beans were glistening, about 1/3 of them showing surface oil. This used to be a sign that the coffee was getting to an unpalatable state for espresso. Now it is a sign that I need to put more coffee in the basket.

First shot, 17 grams, ground at 5.9, stockflethed, tamped, and pulled a total of about 1.8 oz before removing cup about 3/4 of the way down on the 2nd lever pull. Overall the lever pull was just a touch too fast and unresistant. In golden rule terms maybe 4 secs off a perfect twentysomething sec ideal I aim for. Nice medium brown colored crema perhaps a quarter of the volume. Rich chocolate taste, some but not a lot of sweetness, Perhaps a bit on the muddy side, but overall pleasant and satisfying.

I was about to clean up and walk away, but uncharacteristically decided to pull another shot. A little less grinds, 16.5. A little finer grind, 5.85. This time the lever pull was a perfect combination of resistance and pull time. Same amount before blonding, with a little less crema, but surface of the drink still nicely crema covered. A little less chocolate, but more sweetness, with just a hint of not unpleasant bitterness. Less muddy but not quite clear. Overall, a very pleasing and more satisfying shot. The aftertaste is like having eaten a high quality piece of dark, bittersweet chocolate. Wonderful way to end a meal.

[KarlSchneider]

More notes on the Ethiopia FTO Harar Oromia Coop from SM's. Two evenings of university duties eliminated making espresso. So now I am 3 days 6 hrs after roasting. The first cup was again 7 g in single basket / single pull. The flow was too slow but I pulled the cup after 35 sec. I am not sure I have ever had a cup quite like this. The taste was the most tightly focused I can ever recall (or, truth be told, re-taste imaginatively). The flavors did not expand and spread out in the mouth but this pure essence just stood there. It was more rounded than Yemen and has a frame of that rustic chocolate Tom gets. But now the flavors are intense like a Vermeer.

2nd cup. I tried to tamp less to get a faster flow. Same flow that was too slow. Again pulled the cup away at 35 sec with lever still not at top of arc. Now the flavors were just a bit out of focus. Or, better, not so perfectly intensified. Same flavors but sloppy in comparison.

3rd cup. Set Mazzer to coarser grind. Still had flow too slow. Removed cup before handle had reached top. Now to my surprise I had another almost perfect taste. Not big but so refined in clarity. I say surprised because it is hard to get a top level shot on the third pull from an Elektra due to the well-know heating up of the group. This shot as a slim bit better than the first.

I thought about having a fourth. I wanted to get closer still to the pinnacle. I knew all three were off. But then I decided to stop. I don't recall any set of three shots collectively as good except when I had three different Yemeni at the same time. These were as good as the Yemeni but very different.

Hugh Johnson replied, on being asked if he preferred burgundy or bordeaux, "I cannot say and I love tasting both trying to decide." This Harar is as good if also wholly different from the best Yemeni I have had.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

Just a brief note tonight. Three more wonderful single shots. But they seem already a half step off the peak. All the same core flavors are still there but each is just a notch muted.

This is a crucial reason for home roasting if one can. At the fourth or fifth day a coffee peaks. If you roast a small batch you can move on to a new one each week. My roasts are generally 185 g / 6.5 oz for just this reason.

KS

[Mark08859]

I wanted to start a new thread to talk about enjoying Single Origin coffees on the lever machines. I am beginning to believe that a great lever and a SO is a decedent combination. Tony over at Caffe Fresco had send me some great Datera Reserve that he is working on.

Since you mention Tony at Caffe Fresco, I'd suggest trying his SO Papua New Guinea (PNG). It made for a very nice surprise with my lever.

[espressoperson]

Just a brief note tonight. Three more wonderful single shots. But they seem already a half step off the peak. All the same core flavors are still there but each is just a notch muted.

There's no doubt coffee rises to a peak and wanes afterward. Is there anything we can do with grind and dose (to name a couple of possible factors) to prolong the peak? As a coffee ages I need to grind finer and use more. I think this helps to prolong the peak period of enjoyment.

This is a crucial reason for home roasting if one can. At the fourth or fifth day a coffee peaks. If you roast a small batch you can move on to a new one each week. My roasts are generally 185 g / 6.5 oz for just this reason.

I've tried to plan for coffee always available at peak but my usage and choice of beans is just too variable. And to some extent, it's instructive and fun to experience the change over time. For example, I love to go through the wow of a shot on day 3 and the WOW of a shot on day 4. I'm convinced this experience helps me enjoy the shot even more than if I always drank it at peak. (Even to me this sound a little like that old marketing advice - if you can't fix it, feature it!)