Levers and SO coffee - Page 2

[KarlSchneider]

There's no doubt coffee rises to a peak and wanes afterward. Is there anything we can do with grind and dose (to name a couple of possible factors) to prolong the peak? As a coffee ages I need to grind finer and use more. I think this helps to prolong the peak period of enjoyment.

I've tried to plan for coffee always available at peak but my usage and choice of beans is just too variable. And to some extent, it's instructive and fun to experience the change over time. For example, I love to go through the wow of a shot on day 3 and the WOW of a shot on day 4. I'm convinced this experience helps me enjoy the shot even more than if I always drank it at peak. (Even to me this sound a little like that old marketing advice - if you can't fix it, feature it!)

Michael,

I have several thoughts following your questions. First, while it is abundantly clear that coffee peaks and declines it is also true that the decline is generally much more gradual that the climb to the peak. This is also true for wine. Today I had three more single shots from the Eth, Harar Ormonia. Like yesterday's these were also a step off the peak. But the change from yesterday to today was not the same significance as the step off the peak. Given the gradual decline I think one can indeed work on the variables you suggest.

I find that even without trying to slow the decline that I need to grind more finely as the beans age just to get the right tamp/flow. If one pushes these one will indeed get variables to work on. probably somewhat different for each coffee.

I will admit that I have become less willing to compromise on freshness. I "discovered" the centrality of freshness long before I had a decent espresso machine. It was my taste that drove me to ask whenever I bought from the local roaster, "What are the freshest beans today?" It was a long difficult struggle to get them trained to deal with this request. But now I take care of freshness myself by roasting.

My latest game is to roast side-by-side batches. This week it was two Ethiopians (Harar & Ghimbi). I have recently done two different Yemeni. Next week I anticipate two Brazils. In all of this I am done at 7 days and give the remainder away.

I can see your point about the instructiveness of a longer view of each batch. I think I am spoiled on following the peak.

I think the truth here is to pay attention to whatever you are doing and make it instructive. My watching only the peak and your watching the long view are both possible ways to learn.

KS

[espressoperson]

My latest game is to roast side-by-side batches. This week it was two Ethiopians (Harar & Ghimbi). I have recently done two different Yemeni. Next week I anticipate two Brazils. In all of this I am done at 7 days and give the remainder away.

You're really pushing the SO experience with related SO pairs. I think this idea has a lot going for it. Presumably smaller and more subtle differences between two Ethiopians than between an Ethiopian and a Brazilian.

A possible extension of this method might be to try the same SO at different roast levels. Not all over the range, but bracketing the usual roast level. Would there be one best peak roast level for espresso, or would each level have unique espresso potential?

[KarlSchneider]

You're really pushing the SO experience with related SO pairs. I think this idea has a lot going for it. Presumably smaller and more subtle differences between two Ethiopians than between an Ethiopian and a Brazilian.

A possible extension of this method might be to try the same SO at different roast levels. Not all over the range, but bracketing the usual roast level. Would there be one best peak roast level for espresso, or would each level have unique espresso potential?

Michael,

Yes I am intentionally pushing the SO experience. Because it re-pays the pushing. I had a great discussion with Walter about the philology of the word espressso. Using pressure to express the essence.

I had not thought of different roast levels. Next week. Just had three 6 hour after roast Brazil Faz. Santa Helena's from Sweet Maria's. Natural pulped. Pretty simple but wonderful flavors. What some have called the 'bloom of youth." Clearly blooming.

What made French wine so great was monks experimenting. And self-interest. We should do the same.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

You're really pushing the SO experience with related SO pairs.

Michael,

I thought I should try to put into words at least a general description of the differences I noted between the two Ethiopians of last week. Both were dry processed. One was Ghimbi and the other an FTO Harar from Oromia Coop. Both from Sweet Maria's.

I found these two coffees quite different. The Ghimbi was a classic dry-processed Ethiopian. It had the earthy, herbal flavors one expects. The Oromia Harar was also emphatically an Ethipoian but it was something more. The best way I can think to verbalize it is to say it had great individuality that the Ghimbi did not. The Ghimbi was a perfect example of the general type. If I wanted to show someone what Ethiopian coffees are like I would choose the Ghimbi. But if I wanted a unique statement within the Ethiopian taste landscape I would choose the Harar.

Since this is under the umbrella of Lever machines and SO's I will say that to me the lever brings out, or allows one to bring out precisely the individuality I am seeking and find so emphatically in the Harar. I find myself thinking about all those haystacks Monet painted, all the self-portraits Rembrandt did, all Cezanne's still life's or all his paintings of Mont Sainte-Victoire (especially the later ones). Cezanne knew what that mountain looked like, Monet knew what a haystack looked like. But they kept going back. Because each one is so different. It is that difference the Oromia Harar has. This is what I am looking for. I have had lots of espresso blends -- especially all three from Sweet Maria's. If I want a classic espresso they are perfect. But the lever and an SO (I want to start calling them esso /essi) I can get this utterly singular taste.

When I open an extraordinary bottle of wine I choose food that is simple and gives a platform to the wine. If I want a special dish I choose a simpler wine that lets the food stand out. The Ghimbi is pure unobtrusive classicism. The Oromia Harar stands by itself.

So too, for me, does the Yemen Sana'ani SM's currently has when made as an esso.

KS

[espressoperson]

Since this is under the umbrella of Lever machines and SO's I will say that to me the lever brings out, or allows one to bring out precisely the individuality I am seeking and find so emphatically in the Harar. I find myself thinking about all those haystacks Monet painted, all the self-portraits Rembrandt did, all Cezanne's still life's or all his paintings of Mont Sainte-Victoire (especially the later ones). Cezanne knew what that mountain looked like, Monet knew what a haystack looked like. But they kept going back. Because each one is so different. It is that difference the Oromia Harar has. This is what I am looking for. I have had lots of espresso blends -- especially all three from Sweet Maria's. If I want a classic espresso they are perfect. But the lever and an SO (I want to start calling them esso /essi) I can get this utterly singular taste.

Karl,

I think we have this backwards. An SO coffee should not need a special name; it's just coffee! The BLENDS need to be called what they are. This is yet another example of a retronym. Like acoustic guitar, analog watch, classic coke, we now have SO/esso coffee.

Still, if we must name it, how about nonblend (NB), varietal (V), single variety (SV). For me, the trouble with "esso" is I've been around long enough to remember it as a pre-exxon logo.

When I open an extraordinary bottle of wine I choose food that is simple and gives a platform to the wine. If I want a special dish I choose a simpler wine that lets the food stand out. The Ghimbi is pure unobtrusive classicism. The Oromia Harar stands by itself.

So too, for me, does the Yemen Sana'ani SM's currently has when made as an esso.

Here's an OT question for you. If wine blends become more prevalent and more popular, what will the true SO wines be called? (I'm betting you'll have a few choice names to call the blends too )

[KarlSchneider]

This is what I am looking for. I have had lots of espresso blends -- especially all three from Sweet Maria's. If I want a classic espresso they are perfect. But the lever and an SO (I want to start calling them esso /essi) I can get this utterly singular taste.

Karl,

I think we have this backwards. An SO coffee should not need a special name; it's just coffee! The BLENDS need to be called what they are. This is yet another example of a retronym. Like acoustic guitar, analog watch, classic coke, we now have SO/esso coffee.

Still, if we must name it, how about nonblend (NB), varietal (V), single variety (SV). For me, the trouble with "esso" is I've been around long enough to remember it as a pre-exxon logo.

espressoperson, I love your royal "we" but think you are right that I have it wrong here. Making up a name probably helps little if any. One of my least favorite retronyms is 'Brie cheese."

I confess I am also old enough to have bought "esso" for my car.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

Here's an OT question for you. If wine blends become more prevalent and more popular, what will the true SO wines be called? (I'm betting you'll have a few choice names to call the blends too )

Yes, I already have choice names for wine blends. But Dan or Steve will censor them were I to share them.

Actually in this instance wine is way ahead of espresso. Wine has a long history of experimentation. Some of the greatest wines are SO's (Barolo, Bourgogne, Hermitage) and some are blends (Bordeaux, Chinati, Rioja). But having learned where to blend and where to do SO's does not prevent bastardizations like adding cabernet to chianti to make "Super Tuscan."

"Ruining two perfectly good things in a single operation."

-- from a brochure of the Stilton producers in England on scooping out the top of stilton and pouring in port.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

You're really pushing the SO experience with related SO pairs. I think this idea has a lot going for it. Presumably smaller and more subtle differences between two Ethiopians than between an Ethiopian and a Brazilian.

A possible extension of this method might be to try the same SO at different roast levels. Not all over the range, but bracketing the usual roast level. Would there be one best peak roast level for espresso, or would each level have unique espresso potential?

Michael,

Well, now you've done it! Today I roasted two batches of one of my favorite SO coffees, a Yemen Mokha Sana'ani from Sweet Maria's. I did one batch in my normal way which means a full minute into the (full rolling) second crack. This resulted in a 19.6% reduction in weight. The second batch was stopped on the verge of second crack. I heard just a very few snaps - before what I usually consider the start of second crack, but just before. This one had a 16.5 reduction in weight. Here is a pic of the two at about 1/2 hour after the finish of the later lighter roast.

I know that Yemeni do not reach their full potential for 48+ hours but I couldnot wait. Actually I usually start tasting them the first day. So with ca 6 hours on the darker one and less on the lighter ...

The first cup was using the darker roast. My grind was just a bit too coarse and I had a slightly fast flow. There was some nice mottling in the crema which had some color but not a lot. Flavor was good but not anywhere near typical Yemen peak. I hit the second grind better and had better flow time. Similar color and mottling of crema. Flavor was a good step better. Still too generic but heading in the right direction. Time to switch to the light roast.

Used the same ginder setting although i thought the lighter roast would probably come out too coarse. Actually had good 25 sec. flow, normal few drops at end of 10 sec pre-infusion. No real change in color of crema. Smell was more angular. A hint. The taste was what I would call a textbook example of what I do not like about lighter roasts in espresso. Never have. The taste was bitter and tannic. It reminded me of a Kenya and I never have met a Kenya SO i liked. Mixed 50-50 with a La Minita Kenya is for me OK but never alone. Same with this "Full City" Yemen.

I realized that I have tried many times to use a ligher roast for espresso and never liked a single one. Tom at Sweet Maria's always warns about over-roasting because, I think, that is where his palate is. But I just do not like that acidity or bitterness.

On a fourth cup (which I knew was over-extending the Elektra) I tried tamping softer and grinding finer. Out of balance and not worth really discussing.

So far I am focused on realizing that I do not like light roast espressi.

A very good learning experience. I have gone down this same path numerous times. Perhaps eventually I will remember or stop forgetting.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

This morning I tried yesterday's roasts again. This time as Americani which for me means ca. 14 g coffee in double basket and a double pull. I grind these more finely to compesate for the larger diameter screen of the double -- aiming at a similar flow rate to an espresso in a single basket/single pull. I guessed correctly and had just the beginning of drops after 10 sec. pre-infusion and a very good flow rate. After pulling I add hot water to a volume of 6+ oz.

I admit thinking before I tasted, "I doubt if I will like this." I expected similar bitterness and acidity in the finish like last night's espressi. Once again wrong. The taste was quite balanced by which I mean the various components worked together. Nothing sttod out and over-whelmed the other elements. The taste of stony, earthy Yemen was there, and acid and body. Quite nice cup. I guess that in 12 hours the body already has grown so much that the same acid levels of yesterday are no longer so out of harmony.

What was most conspicuous was the closed nature of the Yemen taste. It was there but so tight. This is to be expected in a still undeveloped roast. Tightness here is diffrent from intensity. It is already intense. A tightly wound rose bud comes to mind. One guesses but cannot yet see what will be revealed but senses complexity as well as intensity. Part of this is, of course, based on previous experience.

Although planning to try a dark roast Americani on the assumption of disliking the light roast, I ended up making myself a second light roast because the first was so good.

I constantly am reminded to taste what is in my mouth and not what I think will be there.

KS

[espressoperson]

What was most conspicuous was the closed nature of the Yemen taste. It was there but so tight. This is to be expected in a still undeveloped roast. Tightness here is diffrent from intensity. It is already intense. A tightly wound rose bud comes to mind. One guesses but cannot yet see what will be revealed but senses complexity as well as intensity. Part of this is, of course, based on previous experience.

Karl,

That description fits. It clicked immediately with my memory of early shots.

Great set of posts. I'm looking forward to a few more days worth of development and tasting. As I read the first one I started thinking - I'm not taking the blame for subjecting you to lighter roasts. Now that I've read the second post, I guess to be fair I shouldn't claim the credit either.

I was surprised that you roasted San'ani that light (City? City+?) based on Tom's writeup. I might go this light with Ismaili but even that I usually take 20 or 30 seconds into 2nd. In any case, your experimentation seems to be paying off. This is really getting to the core of the varietal experience.

I've just realized how I've been dealing with my love for espresso and my exploration of varietals - I've separated the two. I always roast some Monkey and Donkey blend, both usually for 30 to 60 seconds into 2nd. That way I can always get my espresso fix and not be upset or deprived if the SOs don't make the grade for espresso. And I too have discovered that an Americano is a wonderful way to consume an SO even if it doesn't make an enjoyable espresso.

I constantly am reminded to taste what is in my mouth and not what I think will be there.

Amazing how often thinking gets in the way of our perceptions. That's probably why professional tasters do blind cupping.

[KarlSchneider]

espressoperson

Karl,

That description fits. It clicked immediately with my memory of early shots.

Great set of posts. I'm looking forward to a few more days worth of development and tasting. As I read the first one I started thinking - I'm not taking the blame for subjecting you to lighter roasts. Now that I've read the second post, I guess to be fair I shouldn't claim the credit either.

Michael,

I was only teasing. But you did indeed push me this way and i am not sure i would have done it without your ideas.

Today I am 3 days 6 hours past roast. I pulled two shots with the dark (regular for me) Yemen Sana'ani. The first was ground too coarsely. Every day is a guess and I missed. The second was ground finer and I hit it on the money. Still not quite developed enough. Beautiful flavor but lacking individuality. I could drink this all day but know it misses the true spot.

Switched to the light roast. Same grind setting. Decent flow time. But so completely different. Now no richness. Angularity dominates. And that bitter finish even if subdued. I think you are right that my Full City + is just not dark enough. Will go no less than 30 sec into second crack from now on.

Tried "grind finer, tamp softer" on #4 and missed everything. Not worth reporting.

Something else presents itself to me tonight. I virtually always know before i taste if a specific cup will be close to the Platonic Ideal. Flow time is so utterly indicative. A few drops at the end of 10 sec pre-infusion and then 25 sec until the lever gets back to the top and I am on the sweet spot. I remember that the same was true on my Giotto. I knew before tasting how close I was. On rare occasions I was wrong and a slower "pull" was centered -- but seldom.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

It is now about 4 days 6 h past roast. I had two shots of the darker Sana'ani and one of the lighter this evening. Truth be told I was not really thrilled with any of them.

The first, dark roast was not tuned in and ran too slowly. The first half of the taste lacked the clarity one hopes for. It was delightful but rather round. It lacked precision of flavors. Beginning to think this roast is just off a bit. The finish had an unpleasant bitter turn. Not much but still there. Tried in #2 to get closer to peak flow and still missed. Similar slowness.

The third shot was with the lighter roast. Using the same grind etc I got a very good 25 sec flow. Color of crema was reddish enough to be promising. The tastes were from the beginning Yemeni angularity but the sharpness was all the way through. I want hard lines and richness. I got hard lines and bitterness. This again reminds me of my consistent lack of enjoyment of lighter roasts for espressi. Obviously a personal preference.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

Yesterday I said that maybe this roast was off. Truth be told, of course, is that the problem was as usual on the user side of the lever.

Tonight I hit the first two shots spot on and got sublime Yemeni single shots. The third was the lighter roasted beans and still much too acidic for my palate.

Might try the "Fellini Pull" on this lighter roast since in my limited experience it seems to thicken the shot..

KS

[KarlSchneider]

Yesterday I roasted some Brazil FTO Poco Fundo from Sweet Maria's. I had not roasted any since June 05 which dates back to before I "traded" my Giotto for the Elektra. I remember that I was already trying SO espresso before I got the lever machine and found this Brazil very unpleasant as straight espresso because of the bitter, acidic finish.

This evening I had the first cups with the Elektra. The first reminded me very clearly of why I let this batch of green beans linger in my "stash" (which I am now trying to rid of older coffees in further attention to freshness). With my usual technique of single basket / single pull on rather dark (19.2% weight reduction) beans 30 hours after roast I had the harsh bitter finish I always dislike. Second pull I tried the "grind finer / tamp softer" method and had a somewhat better result with less bitterness in the finish. Thinking I was facing a week of bad espresso I decided to try a "Fellini Pull" (see "Fellini does espresso") on the third cup just for experimentation. I could tell that this was a third cup in an Elektra because the temp of the shot was "hot". However, the flavor was actually significantly better than the first two. Normally hotter brewing temp makes the coffee more bitter in the end so this was a surprise. The whole taste was much more rounded and soft. It did not have the sharp, bitterness in the end. It was a thicker full-bodied taste usually found in "classic Italian blends".

The thought arises. Could it be that on a lever machine one needs to play with different techniques in relation to different beans? My "standard" technique of single basket / single pull may be the right technique for the Yemeni that come out perfectly that way but maybe other beans benefit from different techniques. Is this a way to address difference in bean character that "corresponds" to adjusting brew temps in commercial machines that allow brew temp control? This is simply speculation at this point. And a path for experimentation.

KS

[KarlSchneider]

Tonight I had three more Brazil FTO Poco Fundo's. The first was a "normal" (for me) single basket single pull. While less bitter in the finish than two days ago was still bitter. For the second and third shots i tried once again the "Fellini Pull." I should add that by this I mean still a single basket with ca. 7 g ground coffee. The first was a pre-infusion of 10 sec. followed by about 6 sec. of lever rise/flow of coffee then pushing the lever back down to the bottom and then immediately letting it rise to the top. This produced more volume in the cup and some more color in the crema. The third cup had a similar sequence except after I pushed the lever back down in the "middle" i held it down for a good 10 sec before releasing.

There was enough difference in the two cups to notice. The final one was still darker in color and more mottled. The real difference was in flavor. I much preferred the second one with the short mid-stop in the middle. It was lighter in color but the complexity of flavor clearly surpassed the final denser one.

I am slowly realizing what I already knew very clearly. In espresso as in wine my palate goes out to elegance and complexity above all else. Density, thickness pale in comparison for me, And I completely prefer French wines to CA. I prefer Bordeaux to Cabernet, I prefer Medoc to St. Emilion or Pomerol, I prefer Margaux to St. Estephe and probably even Pauillac. And Graves over most Medocs. I prefer Volnay to Northern Bourgognes (usually).

KS

[Walter]

Karl, Michael & Steve,

I've been following this thread with great interest from its very beginning, only I didn't - and still don't - have much to contribute other than to say that I am enjoying pretty much every single post in this thread.

Good, freshly roasted coffee is hard to come by in our neck of the woods and the only SO I can get locally is an Ethiopian Bonga Forest. Whenever I got one that was roasted within some two weeks or so - there is no roasting date given on the package - I had to consider myself lucky. But still, I was intrigued by its peculiarity.

For quite a while I have come to understand that the freshness of the roasted beans is crucial for the quality in the cup - and it was the one remaining factor I had no control of. My curiosity and frustration waxed to the point I decided to start homeroasting, and since Monday I am the proud owner of a Gene Cafe roaster (and of several kilos of various SO coffees). The first attempts at roasting - a Monsooned Malabar - are already rather promising and as soon as I have learned the ropes I will join in here and share my own experiences.

Until then I will continue to enjoy your posts...

[KarlSchneider]

Karl, Michael & Steve,

I've been following this thread with great interest from its very beginning, only I didn't - and still don't - have much to contribute other than to say that I am enjoying pretty much every single post in this thread.

Good, freshly roasted coffee is hard to come by in our neck of the woods and the only SO I can get locally is an Ethiopian Bonga Forest. Whenever I got one that was roasted within some two weeks or so - there is no roasting date given on the package - I had to consider myself lucky. But still, I was intrigued by its peculiarity.

For quite a while I have come to understand that the freshness of the roasted beans is crucial for the quality in the cup - and it was the one remaining factor I had no control of. My curiosity and frustration waxed to the point I decided to start homeroasting, and since Monday I am the proud owner of a Gene Cafe roaster (and of several kilos of various SO coffees). The first attempts at roasting - a Monsooned Malabar - are already rather promising and as soon as I have learned the ropes I will join in here and share my own experiences.

Until then I will continue to enjoy your posts...

Hi Walter,

Great to hear from you again! Even more exciting is the news that you are now home-roasting. I can assure you that you will never regret the decision to do this. It will allow you to have the freshest coffee possible and to have different coffees to suit your mood or desires. Do not be afraid to ask roasting questions.

It is always strange how things happen in time. Your note arrives just when I am trying for the first time in a long time a professionally roasted coffee. A friend gave me some Aged Sumatra roasted by Peet's (originally in CA). This coffee takes me back almost exactly 30 years to probably May of 1976 when I bought my first Peet's in Menlo Park, CA. I still remember the coffee because I had never tasted anything quite like it. I loved the difference I tasted in it. I am guessing you have never had Peet's coffee so let me explain that then as now they seem to roast everything very, very dark. What I loved then was the rich flavor that had about 2/3 of the way through the taste a strong dose of clear vanilla-like intensity surrounded before and after by dark coffee.

This morning I had a Americano and it had the classic Peet's profile. But I have to say that I have long since moved beyond this style of coffee. The problem I have is this very dark roast removes almost all SO character and replaces it with what I now call the "Peet's taste." It is a fine taste and it was fun to get back to it. But this one also reminded me why I stopped buying it long ago. Too mono-"chromatic." This is something you will discover as a roaster. You will have a preferred roast level for you. What any of us say is merely a suggestion. You have to decide this based on your own tasting.

Tonight I did not start with Peet's coffee because I have not yet found any Sumatra I like as espresso. Actually this week my morming Americani are Aged Sumatra from Sweet Maria's and delightful in that form. But this week's evening espressi are Brazil FTO Poco Fundo. Did a standard pull first and while almost rounded enough and not very acidic it still had the lingering bitterness. The second was a Brazil using the "Fellini Pull" and was the best espresso of the week. Rich, round and chocolate.

Having hit a really satisfying shot [my real daily, evening goal] I felt free to experiment. So I did a normal pull on the Peet's Aged Sumatra. It was classic Peet's style in full clarity. Rich but lacking any distinctive origin taste or perhaps "Indonesian" as opposed to North Africa or Central American. Deep into the taste there is the tight center taste followed by good indistinguishable coffee. About as good a Peet's can go but missing that final individuality.

KS

[espressoperson]

Karl, Michael & Steve,

I've been following this thread with great interest from its very beginning, only I didn't - and still don't - have much to contribute other than to say that I am enjoying pretty much every single post in this thread.

Good, freshly roasted coffee is hard to come by in our neck of the woods and the only SO I can get locally is an Ethiopian Bonga Forest. Whenever I got one that was roasted within some two weeks or so - there is no roasting date given on the package - I had to consider myself lucky. But still, I was intrigued by its peculiarity.

For quite a while I have come to understand that the freshness of the roasted beans is crucial for the quality in the cup - and it was the one remaining factor I had no control of. My curiosity and frustration waxed to the point I decided to start homeroasting, and since Monday I am the proud owner of a Gene Cafe roaster (and of several kilos of various SO coffees). The first attempts at roasting - a Monsooned Malabar - are already rather promising and as soon as I have learned the ropes I will join in here and share my own experiences.

Until then I will continue to enjoy your posts...

Welcome Walter,

We leverheads are typically independent enough to keep going on our own, but it's great to get some acknowledgement every now and then. Thanks. Please don't wait till you have reached a peak but share your climb with us. We will all learn and improve from your experiences. Happy roasting!

Good fresh roast is hard to get anywhere. I've only seen a handful of roasters willing to date their roasts. The good side of this is that it has turned many of us into home roasters. First to ensure freshness, but then to explore our individual tastes and preferences. Once you've experienced that control it is so hard to give it up. The not so good side is that it is difficult to get good beans when we can't roast. Like Karl, after two years of homeroasting (my favorite Sweet Maria's Monkey Blend and many, many SOs) I too am having a renewed fling with commercially roasted coffee. I have recently started traveling again, so between the reduced time to roast and the logistics of roasting and rest time, I haven't found a rhythm for home roasting that works yet.

Working in the Boston area, I have been able to get freshly roasted and dated beans from Terroir Coffee Company. Daterra North Italian Espresso Roast as well as their superb-sounding Kenya, and a Costa Rica La Lapa decaf for evening shots. All roasted on 2/1/06.

Alas, the Costa Rica was their considerably lighter "full flavor roast" rather than their darker "espresso roast." I didn't realize that until I made a couple of shots last night. The first one was off in grind. One pull gave me a full espresso cup with just one pull in less than 20 seconds. Taste? Interesting chocolattey, nutty, but with an overlay of a fruity sour twang. With a half ounce of Kahlua (for emergency use only, of course) to cut the twang it was OK. Next shot was dialed in better but just a thin layer of crema and a light milk chocolate color, this shot had a too bitter burnt chocolate edge with even less crema. A half ounce of Grand Marnier cut the bitterness and allowed that shot to go down reasonably well. Hiccup! That's when I finally read the label and realized my mistake. I had bought this coffee before as green and done my own roasting to my ususal full city+ so did not think about roast level when buying. Live and learn. I'm guessing this won't even work well as an Americano but will try again tonight. I'll probably go with a french press or vac pot instead. Otherwise I may use up my emergency liqueur supplies

This morning I tried the Daterra. (Is that an SO or a blend of similar SOs? Or what?) It is perhaps not even at its peak yet. The first shot was a double as a cappa with 3-4 oz milk. Too fast extraction, two pulls, but less than 10 secs each. Still, very palatable as a cappa. A pleasant round, sweet taste. The espresso that followed was dialed in better but not perfect. Hints of richness, but with harshness (needs more rest?) and underextracted sourness (needs finer grind). A demitasse spoon of sugar (my daytime emergency solution) helped make it a little more palatable. Will try again tomorrow.

I'd rather be roasting my own but I look forward to the change of exploring these Terroir roasts. I think they may be roasting more delicately than I am capable of doing with my Hottop. They are able to nurse the roast more slowly through the final stages of pre second and into second crack. I need to grind considerably finer and use a few more grams of coffee with their roasts. It's too early to draw conclusions, this is just a hypotheis to be explored over the next few days.

[KarlSchneider]

A new pair of roasts this week. First a Yemen Ismaili Hirazi taken 1 min into 2nd crack for an 18.3% reduction in weight. The second is a Sumatra Mandheling DP roasted 45 sec into 2nd. Both are old batches from Sweet Maria's -- I am trying to get through my older green stash. After only 7 hours of rest I tried the Yemen as espresso. Had two pulls and both were pretty much as anticipated -- one could taste only the slightest Yemen character if that. More like "probably Yemen or Indonesian since it is earthy and clearly not fruity, rounded like Central or South American." Realizing it needed to sit I decided to try the Sumatra as an espresso -- something I had stopped doing because I never got results within the profile I am looking for. But my recent experiences with the "Fellini Pull" giving more balance to the single basket / single pull shot led me to try. I was quite surprised and pleased with the result. The one I pulled was actually rather similar to the preceding Yemeni. It was different but had a similar stone / earth quality. I am now quite focused on following this comparison despite my intention to use the Sumatra only for Americani. Once again a lesson in not letting expectations get in the way of actual taste.

This morning I had a Sumatran Americano and was pleased. On a whim I did a second Americano using the Yemen beans. What I got was at least the best Americano of recent memory and really one as good as I can remember ever.. This was completely unanticipated since the roast was still less than 24 hours and Yemen beans always are slow to mature. The first part of the taste actually was that of an underdeveloped roast. But then in the middle this delicate but glorious taste opened up and stayed there through the end of the sipping and for a very long time after all the coffee was gone. It ended like a violin closing a Mozart string quartet with the softest pure note. The flavor was amazingly complex and complete. It was what one would want in an espresso in terms of clarity but of course it was less concentrated as an Americano.

Lots to watch in the coming days.

KS

[espressoperson]

This coffee takes me back almost exactly 30 years to probably May of 1976 when I bought my first Peet's in Menlo Park, CA. I still remember the coffee because I had never tasted anything quite like it. I loved the difference I tasted in it. I am guessing you have never had Peet's coffee so let me explain that then as now they seem to roast everything very, very dark. What I loved then was the rich flavor that had about 2/3 of the way through the taste a strong dose of clear vanilla-like intensity surrounded before and after by dark coffee.

Wow! Does that bring back memories. I had my first cup of Peet's in September 1979. At the original Berkeley store. It was a slight detour on my daily walk from my California Street place to the University but was worth the trip. I always stopped there, rain or shine. It was always a pleasant shock. I have always liked strong coffee and always drank it black, but Peet's really tested your love of strong coffee and dark roasts. I still remember the sights. My memory evokes pictures of aproned employees standing on stools stirring big vats of coffee with big wooden paddles. (Was that really what they did or have I watched too many horror movies or MacBeth productions?) These days I think I appreciate my infrequent experiences with that dark, oily Peet's roast taste more for the nostalgia they evoke rather than for their actual coffee taste.

The Terroir Daterra experience is progressing very well. The grind and dose are still so different that going on 3 days of drinking I still don't have it perfectly dialed or dosed. But the results in the cup are good enough to appreciate this coffee. Clean, rich, honey, nutty, chocolatty. Present yesterday but even more intense today. It didn't stand out in my cappas as much as I am used to, but it was superb as 1.5 oz double shots with a wonderful, lingering aftertaste. I only roasted these beans once and just don't remember this intensity. I'm not saying it wasn't there, I just don't remember. What I remember most about it was thinking "It's not Monkey." But now, if I can continue to buy fresh supplies of this coffee I will continue to work on it. I still have some greens of this coffee in my stash, so I will be able to do a head to head comparison of my roast vs Terroir. But I will wait until I get more familiar with this coffee and can reliably grind and dose just right before attempting the comparison.