by PeterG on Sat May 27, 2006 10:22 pm
First of all, you hit the nail on the head. The defining characteristic of most Indonesian coffees is:
"Earthy".
Geosmine is a smell that certain bacteria and fungi emit that we identify with the smell of freshly dug earth, or the smell of earth after a rain. Because of the unique drying process that many Indonesians, particularly Sumatrans, undergo, they are infused with the smell of fresh earth.
Indonesians also have some of the following characteristics:
"Forest Floor".
Although this probably seems very close to earthy, it is in fact subtly different. The forest floor characteristic is reminiscent of decomposing cellulose (think wet leaves) and reminds us of the smell of a walk in the woods, mushrooms, and cedar.
"Spice"
Close to the cedar mentioned before, aromatic spices are often found in Indonesian coffees. Cloves are often grown and dried alongside coffee in many parts of Indonesia, and I have often tasted clove in various Indonesian coffees. Black pepper and cinnamon flavors are also common.
"Wood"
As mentioned before, foresty flavors are common in Indos. But cleaner flavors of cut wood are also common, especially with Timorese coffees, which frequently have a piney flavor.
"Butterscotch"
I find that many Sulawesi coffees have a distinct buttery flavor. I attribute this to their unique fermentation technique, which may trigger a malolactic fermentation not unlike that which causes buttery flavors in certain Chardonnays. (this is wild speculation on my part).
"Chocolate"
Here is a slightly strange anecdote for you: While traveling in Sumatra, I had to do some laundry in my hotel room sink. Unfortunately, I was not able to dry my socks completely before having to pack up and move to the next place. When I unpacked my bags, my damp socks smelled exactly like chocolate. I then speculated that certain moisture-loving bacteria in Sumatra might emit chocolate-like smells, and that is why some Indonesians might smell distinctly like chocolate. Gross story, I know. Perhaps I am crazy.
The fact is that it is tougher to dry coffee in Indonesia than almost anywhere else in the world. It rains almost constantly in that part of the South Pacific, and many of the characteristics that we identify with Indos are due to long, uncertain drying periods.
Typically, Indonesians also have a deep, heavy, oily body. I don't know exactly why this is.
As for Indo-heavy blends, the west coast roasters (particularly Peet's) are well known for their affinity for Indo-based espresso blends. I completely agree with you, that more roasters should list the components of their blends transparently. I suggest you call roasters and ask for specifics on blend components. If they won't tell you, pick another roaster. I mean it.
Peter G
counter culture coffee
