How to adjust Elektra Microcasa a Leva pressurestat?

[Bushrod]

This p-stat looks different from the ones I see online as a replacement part. Does anyone recognize it?

Which screw should I use to adjust it and which direction? Specifically, it's cutting out at about 1.5 bar and I'd like to adjust it down to 1.2 bar or so.

Thanks!

[augustusflavius]

Never saw one like that before, and I just worked on a recently purchased A Leva. My best guess is the left screw, counter-clockwise. Mark the original position first, just in case you have to back out the change. Let us know what works.

I'd like to know what its stability and life-span is? The low-profile is intriguing.

matt

[Bushrod]

Well, it's probably not the left screw. I turned it 3/4 turn and it still operates at 1.5 bar or so. The original position was all the way in.

Stability? According to the pressure gauge, it turns the heater on around 1.45 bar and turns it off around 1.55 bar. Is that what you mean?

I tried a Google search on "C1ZN3" and got nothing.

I'll try the right screw tonight and let you know how it goes.

[civ]

Hello:

I think this is just a single pole double throw 16A(5)250VAC switch.
The manufacturer is RGB, see the site here:

http://www.rgb.be/indexfr.html

Can't find this specific model number.

The two small flathead brass screws are there to hold it in a fixed position with respect to the brass hexagonal bolt with the concentric plunger you see in the photo.

So to change the switch's position or replace it, you have to remove the brass screws.
Be careful to mark where it was before you do that or you'll have to recalibrate.

The brass bolt's concentric plunger is what actually turns the switch on when the pressure increases and off as it decreases.

Turning it in one sense or the other will change the pressure (probably has a spring inside) at which the plunger moves out to turn the switch off.

The position (distance, actually) of the switch's button with respect to the plunger would then regulate the delta between the 'on' and 'off' pressures.

It's not even 0.02 worth, but I hope it helps.


Best regards,

CIV

[Bushrod]

WOW, thanks! I found it there. It's a C1ZN general purpose plunger switch. I think the 3 at the end is their code 3 for 45 degree angle quick connect electrical fittings.

Sounds like I need to leave the brass screws the same and to adjust the brass nut to the desired pressure?

[civ]

Hello:

You're welcome.

Yes, I see no need to touch the two brass screws.
Like I said, they seem to be for holding the switch firmly in place.

As for adjusting the pressure, the only possibility seems to be the brass hex head bolt with the axial plunger that works the switch.

Never seen or used one, so I've no idea but I'm quite confident it has a spring of some sort inside and the bolt regulates the tension.

Maybe turning the bolt 20° in one direction and then back to see the difference in pressure cut off values will give you an idea.

I'm sure there are more experienced members of the forum that can give you better advise.

Best regards,

CIV

[Bushrod]

Thank you, civ!

It turns out I needed to adjust it out about 4 full turns. She's now cycling between 1.0 and 1.1 bar when fully warm. It seems to drop a bit as it warms and settles there. The plunger probably needs to loosen up as it warms. It's working great!


The switch is rated for 10,000,000 switches at 1 Hz. Probably last nearly forever with my usage. The list price for the black part is less than 4 Euros.

[civ]

Hello:

You're welcome.
Glad I was able to be of help.

Best regards,

CIV

[narc]

It might be time for a new Pstat on the Elektra Micro Casa a Leva (MCaL). I unscrewed the one screw located under the drip tray. The lower plastic/rubber base did not release. Before I try using a little leverage to remove the bottom is there anything else that needs to be loosen/removed? From what I understand the pstat is connected to the boiler by a pressurestat pipe. If there is a gasket between the pstat & the pipe should it be replaced? This is a model manufactured around '00-'02. Rumors are that it does not have a manual resettable thermo safety fuse. True or False? If true, is there a resettable thermo safety fuse available?

[HB]

I merged your question with a thread on a similar subject to keep it together...

Before I try using a little leverage to remove the bottom is there anything else that needs to be loosen/removed?

The plastic bottom is held on by that one screw, period. You don't need to pry at it with a tool, though it will be stubborn.

From what I understand the pstat is connected to the boiler by a pressurestat pipe. If there is a gasket between the pstat & the pipe should it be replaced?

No, teflon tape is enough.

This is a model manufactured around '00-'02. Rumors are that it does not have a manual resettable thermo safety fuse. True or False? If true, is there a resettable thermo safety fuse available?

Mine was manufactured in 2003 and has a resettable safety switch. If yours doesn't, you may be able to retrofit one in. On mine it's located right next to the heating element.

This p-stat looks different from the ones I see online as a replacement part.

Indeed, you're right, mine has a MATER pressurestat.

[narc]

Dan, thanks for the info. Removed the base today & adjusted the pressurestat down to cycle between 0.85 and 1.15 bars. Plan to compare shots against the Ponte Vecchio Lusso 2 (PVL2) which is set at 1 bar. The pressurestat is a Mater XP110. Same as in the PVL2, but cycles over a bit wider range. Occasionally the Mater has not been cutting off. Pressure builds until the safety valve opens at ~1.6bars. Might have to replace it. The good news is a resettable thermo safety switch. Compared to my E61/HX pump machine there are very few parts inside this unit. Nice clean simple functional elegance. Another reason to like lever machines.

[mhoy]

Pressure builds until the safety valve opens at ~1.6bars.

Interesting, on the 20 yr old one I just picked up on Ebay, the safety valve didn't open when I noticed it was at 2 bar. I'll be adjusting the pstat, (or actually the metal bolt, since mine looks like the one in the first picture). Wonder what pressure the safety valve is suppose to open at?

mark

[orphanespresso]

Got here a bit late for anything but the post mortem.....I have the exact same pstat switch setup on a Zacconi club machine (horizontal boiler, group Identical to Riviera and SAMA Export) badged La Romana. The switch is stationary held by the two screws and the pressure adjusted by turning the collar nut in and out. There is a spring inside the brass housing so the tighter the spring the higher the pressure and vice versa...turn nut out, lower pressure cutout etc. Mine was not working as there is a diaphragm at the base of the unit which was defective and it can be repaired by replacing the plastic diaphragm with a hand cut Viton disc, and it not only works fine, but is VERY sensitive and cycles the boiler element within a 2 psi range on the pressure gauge, rather than having big drops in the pressure before the boiler kicks back on. The pressure safety valve on the La Romana is adjustable as well, so this Elektra may have the same setup for that too.
Doug

[stefano65]

If that pressurestat is clean and not scaled up
they work
better then any of the new style ones

[mhoy]

What ever is wrong needs some disassembly, I turned it out, and out, and out. It finally came loose. It never turned off the heater in any of the adjustments. Guess I need to take it apart and check for scale.

Mark