by another_jim on Wed May 16, 2007 3:24 pm
Good PNGs are not at all like Sumatras, but rather more like halfway between Colombian and Island coffees: they have soft medium fruit flavors that are best tasted at lighter roasts, and malt/molasses/chocolate flavors that come out in medium roasts. Processing is very uneven, and some lots can get a meatbroth taste which sometimes works, but mostly doesn't. PNGs from the highlands are suitable for very dark roasts, since they don't turn ashy and stay sweet; back when Starbucks had fresh coffee, the PNGs were by far their most successful dark roast.
As with all beans, I would make sure the beans are dried and yellowish under 300, but in this case, err on the side of too fast, not too slow -- a slow warm up will exacerbate problems with salty/savory flavors. Take the roast as quickly as until the end of the first crack; keep it fast (as with all beans) for a dark roast; but for the best balance I would suggest slowing down and stopping at the first pops of the second, or a little before that.
However, the roast level on a good PNG is really up to you, since both the fruit and the medium roast flavors are delish.