Elektra T1 - #771 built in 2000 is now mine - Page 4

[zin1953]

Zin1953:
You'll love this machine, it's a really well built system but I guess you know that. Feed it soft water! I'm so convinced that you need to feed an espresso machine softened water. (As I keep cleaning the scale off the inside of my tank).

Mark,

Had the electrician in last week (pre-arrival) to install a new, separate 20 amp circuit for the Elektra. The plumber installed a filtration/softener system I ordered from Chris' Coffee (along with the Elektra itself), and finished the installation with a hole through the granite counter

Yeah, I know -- I'm mechanically and electrically challenged. My hat's off to you to do a rebuild such as what you're doing. Me? I'd botch it up for sure! Besides, this is why God made electricians and plumbers -- so I can hire them to do things the right way the first time and thereby save me from making an a$$ out of myself!

Anyway, further explorations into the use of my Elektra will be in a new thread . . . keep up the good work, Mark -- I'm looking forward to reading of your continued efforts.

Cheers,
Jason

[mhoy]

Jason: Congratulations, on your Elektra install! I'll be following your results carefully since I hope to be able to compare our Elektras sometime in the future.

I'm grateful for all the help this forum has provided. The wealth of knowledge spread across the globe is pretty neat. It was fun helping out Paul in New Zealand, who needed a size of a gasket. He in turn pointed out a Teflon gasket which is a great idea.

I've some work ahead of me still. Luckily the guys at MoreFlavor! (formally Fermentation Frenzy) brought some more Citric Acid from their Concord store to Los Altos for me this morning. Nice guys!! The inside of the tank is almost clean of scale, just some really stuborn places left. Once the inside is clean, I'll get to work on replacing some of the indicator lights that seem a bit crispy from the heat.

Mark

[mhoy]

Fellow Elektra owners: You may want to occasionally remove the back badge and clean behind it. It felt like there was two way tape holding the badge in place when I pulled it off. Perhaps this was sitting beside a deep frier or something.




Mark

[shadowfax]

What are you going to do with that logo?

I think you should totally get it powdercoated in something totally flamboyant like, say, metallic hot pink.

I'm joking, but at the same time, totally serious. I would.

[mhoy]

Well, I was thinking of keeping it white or perhaps blue. The problem is I can't figure out how to properly clean it and repaint it. The CNC milling machine is that did it was kind of rough (IMNSHO). It isn't actually flat on the back either. The side (that you can't see) are a bit rough in places too.



A quick change with gimp.



Mark

[shadowfax]

I would take it to a powdercoating place and let them do it, personally. I believe that they usually treat the metal prior to powdercoating it as well. Is the logo milled aluminum? You could get it anodised if that's the case. That would be totally awesome. I think powdercoating ought to run you $40 or $50. A friend of mine got his bike frame custom powdercoated about a year ago, and it was about $65 with the clear coat after the powdercoating.

[stevendouglas]

Mark,

Thanks for putting the rebuild on HB. It's funny, I saw this on Craig's List and was so tempted to buy it (I'm in Sacramento). I already own an Elektra A3, but WOW what a deal. After, I couldn't get any of my friends to buy it, I emailed the guy to see if he still had it and you'd already bought it!

Thanks again. You're going to love this machine!

Steve

[mhoy]

Thanks for the encouragement Steven. I'm enjoying the rebuild, I finally got the boiler clean of scale, pity I couldn't get a before and after shot of the inside.

Pressure Release Valve this morning:



Pressure Release Valve as of now:




Now there are suppose to be copper washers under the boiler level probe, pressure release valve and vacuum breaker and yet I think there are only ones under the level probe and vacuum breaker. I noticed a fair bit of teflon tape on the release valve and I think they may have replaced it at one time without the washer. On the other two, the washer seems welded to the tank.

Q1: How do I remove the old washer safely without marring the seat?
Q2: The teflon tape was a pain in the butt to remove from the threads. Should I use pipe dope, or just go without and only use it on leaky spots?
Q3: I might put some of the steam valve silicon grease on the spring to keep it from rusting. Thoughts?

Mark

[Jeepin' Geo]

Q2: The teflon tape was a pain in the butt to remove from the threads. Should I use pipe dope, or just go without and only use it on leaky spots?

Mark,

Great job on the rebuild!

Don't fear the teflon tape. I too have spent many frustrating moments picking out the remains of old teflon tape, cursing all the while, prying with dental picks, pulling at the free threads with tweezers until ... I discovered the easy way! Cut down the bristles on an old tooth brush and go hard on those tape coated threads. If you go opposite the way the tape was wound, the old tape will be out in a flash and the threads will be nice and clean, too. Give it a try.

I also e-mailed the seller a few days after you bought the machine. At first I was thinking $850 was a bit high but your making it look very worthwhile. No doubt you'll end up with a great machine at a great price. Keep the pics coming. Looking forward to your first shot results.

George

[Paul]

I'm not a big fan of rebuilding safety valves. You lose any calibration they had when disassembling. I always pop in a new one for the sake of $20. FWIW, the washer is a single use compression fella. These neatly crush when you torque the safety valve down. It should come out with a little gentle force and a screwdriver.

In emergencies, I have been known to reuse a valve and copper gasket. In such short term cases, I'd just wrap a bunch of teflon tape around the threads and cross my fingers.

[mhoy]

Paul: Thanks for the input. I'm sure the 3/8" copper washer wasn't there as there is a nice little ledge that the new one perfectly sits on. I'll use a bit more persuasion on the old washers on the level sensor and vacuum valve holes.

The pressure valve didn't look like a high precision part so I wasn't too worried about it, but given all the other work I'm doing, I'll add it to the parts list that is still growing. I keep putting off ordering so that I can get 'all' the parts I need. I guess I won't really know that for a while...

So far on the second order of parts:
1. New neon lights, current ones are crispy, plastic shielding on leads that connect to the lights should also be replaced.
2. Teflon gasket for heater flange
3. Pressure Relief valve

[stefano65]

Pressure valves are calibrated ( AKA safety valve ). I would replace it, not only it can pop and blow if you are adjusting it incorrectly but it can stay open slowly letting out pressure ( just like a leak ...............well it is a leak) therefore making your pstat and heating element work more than they should.

[mhoy]

Ordered another bunch of stuff from Stefano this morning (and I got a shipping notice this afternoon, amazing service).

The new drain box doesn't have a hole pre-drilled for the water from the 3-way. Kind of odd. The old box had a hole that looked somewhat 'hand' drilled. Not exactly what I'd expect on a $$$ machine.

Tried a test fit of the plumbing, making sure thing still fit. It soaked in citric acid for so long it may have shrunk the copper.



Before I tighten things up, I'll first layout the electrical then the plumbing.

Then test for leaks, heat it up, cool down, re-tighten, repeat.

If you have any hints, ideas, etc. tell me now so I don't have to take things apart again.

Mark

BTW: Gregg Stuart, I'm still awaiting email from you.

[stefano65]

keep one of the heating element wires disconnected until you are sure there is plenty of water in the boiler

[mhoy]

Of course I had to polish up the stainless steel on the hottest weekend of the year...

I removed the name plate/serial number and I'll re-locate it to the electronics cover under the drip tray.

You may be able to see the fine scratches around the name plate.



After 30 minutes of light cleaning and then polishing I still have light scratches, but they are much harder to see. If you have tried taking pictures of scratches, it ain't easy.



The upper plate where the silk screened Elektra name used to be:



=-=-
Mark

[mhoy]

Now the hot water wand needed to be finished up before re-assembly could be done. It was relatively easy, but I used a wooden jawed vice to grip a number of the items. I purchased a backup steam wand (from Gregg Stuart) and figured out from it which way the various threads turn. Being new it wasn't seized up in any way. NOTE: The part that hold the wood-like handle in place is LEFT handed, along with the nut beside it. This may save some one some grief at some point.



The ball and socket are pretty crufty with hard water, but I suspect it all worked well because to the self cleaning on the ball joints.

[mhoy]

I was unsuccessful in getting the end with the bakelite handle off, it has a tiny flats for a wrench and no grip on the smooth handle. I gave up after a number of attempts. Back to the main part wand. Now inside the large chromed piece is the valve mechanism, this part is a bit trickier since one end (not shown) is a piece of stainless steel that is round and has a spring with it.


The end cap is copper and it's free to turn when you try and undo it. I used the wooden jaws on the vice to grip the steel end, pressed down and turned the screw at the same time. I bet the factory has a nice jig that does all this for them...




Into the ultrasonic cleaner with Cafiza, followed by a quick soak in a hot citric acid solution. Voila all clean. Open the pack from Stefano for rebuilding the steam arm, apply tiny bits of high temp silicon grease (don't buy the big tube like I did, this will last forever or until you lose it). Reassembly of the sprung inner valve with the copper end wasn't as simple as I would have liked. Turns out, if you assemble the end of the valve, you can depress the valve (as if drawing water) and then it's a bit easier to thread on the copper nut.

Decided to use the steam wand from Gregg and save one rebuild kit and the original steam arm for a rainy day project.

=-=-
Mark

[mhoy]

Swigert: 'Okay, Houston, we've had a problem here.'

I finally pryed out the old copper washers, just took a bit more force than I had originally thought. Unfortunately my replacement washers for the level probe and the vacuum vent don't seem to be the same size as the originals. These appear to be correct according to the parts schematics but are off by about one millimeter, one smaller the other larger.

The washers from top to bottom with a ruler placed on one side for comparison purposes:
1. replacement - vacuum vent washer
2. original vacuum vent washer
3. original level probe washer
4. replacement washer.

They increase in size by about a mm for each washer.





No luck at the local hardware store, or the automotive shop, they seemed to have the same washers as my new ones...

Ah well I needed a break for the day.
=-=-
mark

[Paul]

Swigert: 'Okay, Houston, we've had a problem here.'

I finally pryed out the old copper washers, just took a bit more force than I had originally thought. Unfortunately my replacement washers for the level probe and the vacuum vent don't seem to be the same size as the originals. These appear to be correct according to the parts schematics but are off by about one millimeter, one smaller the other larger.

The washers from top to bottom with a ruler placed on one side for comparison purposes:
1. replacement - vacuum vent washer
2. original vacuum vent washer
3. original level probe washer
4. replacement washer.

They increase in size by about a mm for each washer.


<image>


No luck at the local hardware store, or the automotive shop, they seemed to have the same washers as my new ones...

Ah well I needed a break for the day.
=-=-
mark

are the ID of the original and replacement washers the same? I've had this issue before and the replacements worked for me. Make sure there is no rubbish on the seats and I bet you'll be fine.

[shadowfax]

are the ID of the original and replacement washers the same? I've had this issue before and the replacements worked for me. Make sure there is no rubbish on the seats and I bet you'll be fine.

Near as I can tell in photoshop with a measure tool, the ID on the larger level probe washer is the same as the replacement, but it looks like the ID on the replacement vacuum breaker is somewhat smaller...