by PeterG on Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:02 am
Very interesting question.
Roasters have various tools at hand for quality assessment/control, only one of which is cupping.
But, as for your questions:
Green coffee: We pay a lot of attention when buying coffee to potential variation within a given lot; i.e. bag-to-bag variation. This is one reason good coffee buyers travel to inspect mills, and insure that coffees are sufficiently consistent at the milling/bagging stage. We make every possible effort to eliminate bag-to-bag variation. When coffee is from a good mill, you can count on the coffee being consistent throughout the lot.
Blend creation: usually, by the time we are actually roasting coffees, we are intimately familiar with a given coffee, and are starting to predict how it will behave in darker roasts, the espresso machine, etc. After a while, you begin to be able to predict how coffees will interact in a blend. Also, frequently, you wind up buying coffees with blends in mind (this happens often for espresso). In any case, just as Jim said, we usually come up with espresso blends based on basic information (cupping and single origin shots) followed by a number of experimental blends. Once a blend is hit upon, you tweak it frequently over the course of the year to maintain the integrity of the flavor profile. This is not done every roast, more like every few weeks or even more.
We maintain consistency by using a spectrophotometer to analyze roast color of both beans and ground coffee after each roast. Weight loss, roasting time and temperature can also give you valuable information. Using all of these things, we can accurately predict the flavor of the coffee and therefore how it will behave in a blend.
You actually need to be somewhat careful about how much you cup. Even the most accurate palate varies from day to day and over the course of the day, so if a roaster were to make adjustments based on individual cuppings of individual roasts you would be all over the place. In addition, cupping "right out of the roaster" is almost useless, and good roasters generally ship their coffee out before it is sufficiently degassed to give good cupping results. For this reason, data collection, followed by corresponding those data with cupping results is most valuable.
Peter G
counter culture coffee