The Disappearance of the Straight Shot - Page 2

[JimWright]

For a shop to do it right, and to what I estimate to be the level of satisfaction that HB-type folks are looking for, you really need to have a separate grinder and coffee for straight-shots... though that still guarantees nothing. However, the reality of shop operations is such that most shops don't do enough straight-shot business to warrant a dedicated grinder, much less be able to go through coffee quickly enough... and a blend is a blend, and when its primary usage is in milk drinks, "how it does in milk" is important. Espresso is generally a "one size fits all" proposition in 99% of shops.

I'm curious - how many shops do people know of where they use a separate blend and grinder for milk drinks? I go to a few artisan shops, but seldom order milk concoctions.

[Abe Carmeli]

I would so love to agree with this, but cannot. As (most likely) the majority buyers of $1,000 plus espresso machines and $500 plus grinders, the community has had input in this regard. As far as buying cups of espresso on the street, I fear we add up to a very, very tiny minority. At least for now, money talks.

There is not much buying of straight shots in coffee shops because they are not up to the espresso standard. It's not the chicken and the egg thing, there are tens of thousands of us who can appreciate it. Hence, the elevation of espresso has largely happened in people's kitchen, and sadly remains there. The shops elevated coffee in general, and milk drinks, but not espresso. The simple test? 98% of all the good espresso produced in the U.S. is served in people's kitchens. Not to mention the body of knowledge on the subject that was developed online.

There's no need to shortchange our contribution. Though I'm getting a little nauseated from my self congratulatory tone, but it is what it is.

[Nick]

Hence, the elevation of espresso has largely happened in people's kitchen, and sadly remains there. The shops elevated coffee in general, and milk drinks, but not espresso. The simple test? 98% of all the good espresso produced in the U.S. is served in people's kitchens. Not to mention the body of knowledge on the subject that was developed online.

There's no need to shortchange our contribution. Though I'm getting a little nauseated from my self congratulatory tone, but it is what it is.

OMFG, Abe. I don't know you to be one of such puffery.

Your "simple test" is b.s., my friend!

I was hoping I'll get your mojo going with that one Nick. To your credit, you are the first coffee shop owner who even cared to respond. There is no competition here, just throwing a challenge at you folks to get moving in that direction. As to patience, well, there is no time like the present.

The first coffee shop owner to respond? This is "Home-Barista.com." I don't own a home espresso machine. I lurk on occasion because there's interesting stuff here and there that adds to my breadth of knowledge, but your "to your credit" statement implies that you expect some engagement here.

Perhaps you expect too much... in more ways than one.

[JimWright]

Curious Nick - do you use separate grinders and/or blends for milk drinks than for straight espresso?

[Nick]

No, but I'm thinkin' about it.

[Abe Carmeli]

Your "simple test" is b.s., my friend!.

It's way too easy to rattle your cage dude. May I add that your well crafted argument got me totally convinced.

[PeterG]

As a roaster who does not run a cafe, but sells coffee to many artisan coffee shops, I have my own perspective on this issue.

I think Abe makes some assumptions here...

First of all, Abe has made an (apparently unchallenged) assertion that milk drinks are "better" than straight shots at these cafes. I don't find this to be true, myself. Lots of these artisan shops produce espresso to a very high standard, and I will say that I have really thoroughly enjoyed lots of the straight espresso I have had at these shops. I'm still trying to figure out what standard you are using, Abe. I understand that you like the espresso in your kitchen better than you have had in these shops. But isn't it possible that those shop owners and baristi would enjoy the coffee from their shops better than your kitchen espressos? Which is of higher quality, again? But maybe I misunderstand you, Abe, when you talk of the "artisan" shops, you are talking about the new movement of very quality-focused shops that have blossomed within the past few years, right? Not the starbucks-imitating big-milk drink places, right? I assume that is your reason for using "artisan".

It is only somewhat true that certain coffees do better (according to taste) than others in milk drinks. Our La Forza blend (relatively intense) is the best suited for milk drinks, in our opinion. Aficionado (delicate and layered) is a straight shot coffee, to me. Toscano (sweeet) is a straight shot coffee as well, but has better performance in milk than Aficiconado. However, there are baristas that prefer Forza straight, Toscano in milk, and so on. An awful lot depends on dosage, temperature, concentration, etc....

Most of the owners and baristi in these "artisan" shops are straight espresso drinkers. I know I am, and I was an integral part of the blend designs (along with baristas). These people drink their own shots all the time. Do you think they drink a shot, shudder, and say to themselves "that sucked, but I choked it down because it would've tasted great in a cappuccino"? I feel that these shop owners and baristi are serving espressos they feel are a great representation of espresso flavor. In my experience, baristas get really excited when they get a straight shot drinker (they are so rare, after all) and they try extra-hard to please them. I think your assumption that these shop owners are intentionally sacrificing straight-shot quality in order to make good milk drinks is off the mark.

Addressing your points specifically:

1) Shots are way too concentrated. In a cappuccino, such concentrated shot is transformed in milk and yields a wonderful cup. But using the same parameters to brew a straight shot is doomed to failure in many instances.

Many baristi have embraced overdosing/underextracting for a long time now, and not because it makes the cappuccinos taste better. I understand that you might not like super-thick shots yourself, but many do. This is changing, now people are going back and exploring what less-concentrated drinks can be.

2) Coffee is just not suitable for a straight shot. On a good day it will reach the high mark of a mediocre drink. On most other days, it is flat-out bitter, but man, it looks so good in the cup.

Could be, although as I said I think most owners of artisan shops try really hard on their espressos and drink them themselves. Do you really think these baristi intentionally serve flat-out-bitter shots, rationalizing that at least it looks good?

3) Coffee is suitable but coffee shops are not setup for efficiently changing grind/dosage parameters between an espresso & a milk drink.

This is true for sure.

4) Just lazy baristas

I gotta defend the baristas here; I have rarely met the barista at an artisan-third wave shop who was not enthusiastic, hardworking, and passionate about espresso.

Peter G

[Abe Carmeli]

Hi Peter. I was hoping you would join, though my gripe is really not with the roasters or the coffee, but you bring a great perspective.

Let's take your good points in order:

First of all, Abe has made an (apparently unchallenged) assertion that milk drinks are "better" than straight shots at these cafes. .

If you read the other posters on this thread you will see that my general opinion of the quality of the straight shots in the artisan shops is shared by almost everyone else who posted here. Though I am mainly talking about my experience, I am surely not alone. Nick, who does not agree with me on most things here actually conceded that most shops that tried to produce high quality espresso shots failed.

I have really thoroughly enjoyed lots of the straight espresso I have had at these shops. I'm still trying to figure out what standard you are using, Abe.

The same standard I use when judging at the USBC, only leaner. I don't look for crema or particularly at body, and pay extra attention to flavor and balance.

Most of the owners and baristi in these "artisan" shops are straight espresso drinkers. I know I am, and I was an integral part of the blend designs (along with baristas). These people drink their own shots all the time. Do you think they drink a shot, shudder, and say to themselves "that sucked, but I choked it down because it would've tasted great in a cappuccino"? I feel that these shop owners and baristi are serving espressos they feel are a great representation of espresso flavor. In my experience, baristas get really excited when they get a straight shot drinker (they are so rare, after all) and they try extra-hard to please them. I think your assumption that these shop owners are intentionally sacrificing straight-shot quality in order to make good milk drinks is off the mark.

I'm puzzled myself why they suck, but that has been my experience. As I mentioned earlier, some shops do a good job at it, I'm not condemning them all, but the majority don't. I don't mean to insult anyone here, definitely not the shop owners, and I take you for your word that they are trying. I know some of them myself, but as a consumer who tried it more than once I can only report on my experience, and it is uneven at best. You may have a totally different experience, and that's totally cool.

This post is nothing more than highlighting what I see as a place for improvement. It is not an attack on coffee shops, but rather a critique pointing out where I believe they can do better. You should not be taking it personally as an attack on any one's character. See it as an opportunity, which I hope you do.

Now your point on how I judge those shots actually brought up something I had in the back of my mind. I intend to be more specific about it, by perhaps writing up what I would call The Straight Shot Report. For what its worth, I will rate all the artisan shops in my area on their straight shots with detailed explanation of how those were rated. I intend to revisit those shops monthly, and give them a chance to improve their ratings in the meantime. Whether they care at all about my opinion only time will tell, but I think this will be a more fair way to publish it. It will include the name of the barista serving the shot and coffee used, and I hope to start it within a couple of weeks.

I'm happy you stopped by Peter, I still love you dude

[luca]

Hi Abe,

I think that Nick and Peter raise some good points. Personally, I'm glad to see that you have posted this. Having discriminating consumers out there definitely gives the good shops an incentive to stay on top of their game. Conversely, I can't help but think that as we get more and more discriminating consumers out there, the number of posers that simply claim to produce good coffee will diminish.

Cheers,

Luca

PS. What's the deal with changing grind settings for espresso and milk drinks? I and my co-workers have always dialled the grind in to create an espresso that tasted good, then used that setting for milk drinks. Did I miss the meeting? ;P

[Abe Carmeli]

Hi Abe,
PS. What's the deal with changing grind settings for espresso and milk drinks? I and my co-workers have always dialled the grind in to create an espresso that tasted good, then used that setting for milk drinks. Did I miss the meeting? ;P

Hi Luca,

You can surely get a shot to taste good on both without much change. I guess it depends on what flavor profile you are shooting for on the milk drink. A little more updosed shot for the milk to give it a stronger buzz?

The Straight Shot Report project is now official. It will start showing up on H/B on the front page sometime round the end of the month if I can get my act together. Judging by the heat I've been getting from the pros, I am on my way to become the scrooge of the coffee business...what I do for love man.

[JimWright]

Do you really think these baristi intentionally serve flat-out-bitter shots, rationalizing that at least it looks good?

A thought: I know this will be inconsistent with what Peter is saying about 3rd Wave Baristas taking their work seriously (and I don't necessarily disagree, although this is hardly uniform), but, I know from my own experience that the difference between a shot which came out great and one which did not is not always readily apparent by the appearance of the extraction, and requires careful attention during preparation.

Now, I obviously suck compared to the pros, but I'm sure the rush to get customers out the door while making a lot of milk drinks, clover and other brew-right-now coffee, etc. (each of which take much longer obviously) makes it hard to stay focused on making really good straight shots, and I think the prevalence of milk drinks makes it a lot easier to lose focus on your espresso without anyone calling you on it - imperfection in the espresso is covered by the milk in 90% of the drinks served. (Esp. given how much milk is used in many of the drinks.)

Maybe folks should start using comment cards at cafes? (I say this only half jokingly - if the baristas knew they were serving bitter shots, I have no doubt that a lot of them would be motivated to improve/focus.)

[AndyS]

The idea of elevating espresso starts with the straight shot. When you miss the mark on that basic, you'll never get very far.

Perhaps. But for many shops, the idea of elevating coffee starts with staying in business. Really, how much time do you think these places have to obsess about drinks that make up less than 2% of their orders and maybe than 0.5% of their sales?

Also, Abe, the idea of regularly reviewing straight shots at cafes might help out. But if you were really committed to making a difference, you'd be spearheading an educational campaign to get hundreds (and eventually thousands) of New York consumers to appreciate what good espresso is about. When these thousands went out and ordered straight shots, it would change the economics of the situation for the shop owners.

[Abe Carmeli]

Also, Abe, the idea of regularly reviewing straight shots at cafes might help out. But if you were really committed to making a difference, you'd be spearheading an educational campaign to get hundreds (and eventually thousands) of New York consumers to appreciate what good espresso is about. When these thousands went out and ordered straight shots, it would change the economics of the situation for the shop owners.

Andy,

Are there any other errands you would want me to do while I'm doing my educational campaign? How about feeding the hungry and curing the sick? Though it is nice to see you are thinking of me.

Seriously, this ain't my job. We are doing a lot online to educate people. I'm not in the coffee business, I'm the consumer in this relationship, and I exercise my constitutional right to kvetch. (It is the New York Amendment).

Doing the Straight Shot Report by the way is a lot of work on its own. Not to mention the wrath I'm going to endure thereafter. How about you dude? I hear you have a lot of free time on your hands.

[malachi]

Ummm...

How about the simple explanation?
You can hide a mediocre espresso in milk.
The vast majority of espresso in the US is between horrid and mediocre.
So people hide the espresso in milk (because it tastes better).
With customers demanding large milk drinks, the target flavour of the coffee changes - resulting in a need to come up with espressos that are "bigger" in flavour.

You can blame coffee companies if you want.
Me... I blame the market (ie consumers).

3) Coffee is suitable but coffee shops are not setup for efficiently changing grind/dosage parameters between an espresso & a milk drink.

Sorry... gotta challenge this one.
Why the h*ll would you change extraction for different drinks?

[malachi]

As to the consumer inclination to order a straight shot, it is mostly limited to people who frequent this coffee forum and other like it. A tiny percentage of the market.

The vast majority of people who ordered straight espresso when I was working in the biz fell into two categories.

1 - Europeans,
2 - Employees of coffee bars.

Folks like the people on this forum represent a truly tiny audience (sorry to say).

We as a community have contributed to the advancement of espresso more than all those artisan coffee shops put together.

Okay.

I have to call complete and total bullshit on this statement.
1 - You seriously think the people on this forum have contributed more to the advancement of espresso than Illy alone? Than Vivace alone? Than any of Zoka or Stumptown or CounterCulture or Intelligentsia alone? F*ck that... than Starbucks?!?! Whatever you're smoking... I want some.
2 - There are an enormous number of coffee professionals who spend a lot of time and contribute a ton of energy to forums like this. They also spend a lot of time biting their tongues when people say and post insensitive and insulting things. These are people who don't do this as a day job, who are sacrificing high-income jobs, who work endless hours on their feet... who live coffee... so that those of us who have our cushy jobs can get the benefits of their knowledge. When people crap on coffee bars and lump them in with a 16 year old with a summer job at Gloria Jean's - they bite their tongue. Posting crap like this is insulting and insensitive and ignorant. You should be ashamed.

[Abe Carmeli]

Ummm...

How about the simple explanation?
You can hide a mediocre espresso in milk.
The vast majority of espresso in the US is between horrid and mediocre.
So people hide the espresso in milk (because it tastes better).
With customers demanding large milk drinks, the target flavour of the coffee changes - resulting in a need to come up with espressos that are "bigger" in flavour.

You can blame coffee companies if you want.
Me... I blame the market (ie consumers).

What should a consumer to do then? We are also consumers, and there are tens of thousands of us online. I'd say it is enough of a market to tap into. If they serve it, we will come.

Sorry... gotta challenge this one.
Why the h*ll would you change extraction for different drinks?

Two different coffees, or even with the same coffee going for a different shot profile. Accenting chocolate for milk drink by adjusting dosage & extraction time.

[malachi]

98% of all the good espresso produced in the U.S. is served in people's kitchens.

Ha hah ha hah ha.

There are places in the US that turn out hundred of shots of good espresso every single day.
When I rank the best 25 shots of my life - none were at someone's home.

[malachi]

Two different coffees, or even with the same coffee going for a different shot profile. Accenting chocolate for milk drink by adjusting dosage & ecxtraction time.

Even at the busiest cafe you can adjust flavour profile on the fly since you don't need to change grind.
But you'll only do it if a customer ASKS for it.
Basically what most good baristas do is dial in the espresso as a straight shot. I mean... that's who your audience is. The average milk drink consumer doesn't really care about the taste of the espresso - so you work for a flavour profile that tastes good as a straight shot.

As an old boss used to say... "I pull 100 shots a day, 5 days a week, 4 weeks a month so that on the one day a month that someone else who works in the business comes in to get a shot - I can make them happy."

[Abe Carmeli]

Okay.

I have to call complete and total bullshit on this statement.
1 - You seriously think the people on this forum have contributed more to the advancement of espresso than Illy alone? Than Vivace alone? Than any of Zoka or Stumptown or CounterCulture or Intelligentsia alone? F*ck that... than Starbucks?!?! Whatever you're smoking... I want some.

I was talking about an online community, versus coffee shops as a business. The pros - baristas, roasters are part of that online community. No insult intended. As to my smoke, you'll have to try a little harder to charm me to get some...

2 - There are an enormous number of coffee professionals who spend a lot of time and contribute a ton of energy to forums like this. They also spend a lot of time biting their tongues when people say and post insensitive and insulting things. These are people who don't do this as a day job, who are sacrificing high-income jobs, who work endless hours on their feet... who live coffee... so that those of us who have our cushy jobs can get the benefits of their knowledge. When people crap on coffee bars and lump them in with a 16 year old with a summer job at Gloria Jean's - they bite their tongue. Posting crap like this is insulting and insensitive and ignorant. You should be ashamed.

They deserve all the credit, and I am not dissing them. They are part of this community as I see it. Again you are talking about individuals. As opposed to coffee shops as a business, it is a different story. You can't claim on one hand that most of the espresso in coffee shops is horrid to mediocre, and then claim that those shops elevated espresso. Milk drinks, yes, coffee sure. Espresso? It has a long way to go.

[Abe Carmeli]

Even at the busiest cafe you can adjust flavour profile on the fly since you don't need to change grind.
But you'll only do it if a customer ASKS for it.
Basically what most good baristas do is dial in the espresso as a straight shot. I mean... that's who your audience is. The average milk drink consumer doesn't really care about the taste of the espresso - so you work for a flavour profile that tastes good as a straight shot.

I don't know how they do it in other shops, but my experience, from tasting the result, is that it was not dialed for a straight shot. Most of the time it is strongly imbalanced.

As an old boss used to say... "I pull 100 shots a day, 5 days a week, 4 weeks a month so that on the one day a month that someone else who works in the business comes in to get a shot - I can make them happy."

Please tell him that New York is practically an untapped market.