Brewtus II controller failure

[Fullsack]

The LED controller failed on my Brewtus II. WLL provided a new controller at no charge. It took a week to arrive, but less than half an hour to change and I work slow.
One of the concerns about the internal installation of a PID in a Silvia is that the high temps will be too much for the controller. I left my BII on for long periods at a time, long enough that the water in the reservoir became warm, (I mentioned this in another H-B thread), causing the reservoir tubes to become slimy like a neglected fish tank.
I speculate that a BII, left on for long periods of time, generates enough heat to cook the controller. What are H-B's thoughts?

Doug
fullsack

[another_jim]

Panel controllers like the ubiquitous Fuji PXRs are rated to operate to 50C; which should be OK if a good location is chosen inside the case. There's more rugged controls spec'ed to 80C, even 95C, designed for the insides of hot equipment. All electronics are subject to infant mortality, and may fail in the first month or so of use.

50C can be exceeded inside an espresso machine if the controller is located too close to the boiler; I have no idea if this is the case with the Brewtus, or whether they are using a higher spec'ed controllers.

People installing panel mount controllers should always check the weather at their intended location.

[Fullsack]

Panel controllers like the ubiquitous Fuji PXRs are rated to operate to 50C; which should be OK if a good location is chosen inside the case. There's more rugged controls spec'ed to 80C, even 95C, designed for the insides of hot equipment. All electronics are subject to infant mortality, and may fail in the first month or so of use.

50C can be exceeded inside an espresso machine if the controller is located too close to the boiler; I have no idea if this is the case with the Brewtus, or whether they are using a higher spec'ed controllers.

People installing panel mount controllers should always check the weather at their intended location.

My Brewtus was used at least twice daily since I purchaed it in April 2006, so it probably wasn't an infant mortality issue. The WLL tech said they have had to replace enough controllers that he was sure it was the problem. The pressure was fine, so it wasn't a pressurestat. My first guess would have been that a thermostat or heating element was the cause of the temp loss. A controller is not the most inexpensive thing to replace.

[Fullsack]

Panel controllers like the ubiquitous Fuji PXRs are rated to operate to 50C; which should be OK if a good location is chosen inside the case. There's more rugged controls spec'ed to 80C, even 95C, designed for the insides of hot equipment. All electronics are subject to infant mortality, and may fail in the first month or so of use.

50C can be exceeded inside an espresso machine if the controller is located too close to the boiler; I have no idea if this is the case with the Brewtus, or whether they are using a higher spec'ed controllers.

People installing panel mount controllers should always check the weather at their intended location.

The Brewtus uses an AKO-13120 controller, ako.com. The sheet states "The controller must be installed in a place...where the ambient temperature does not surpass the value specified in the technical data." The working ambient temp range in the tech data is 5C to 40C. The boiler is insulated and a few inches from the controller. From what you said, it looks like the internal temp isn't the problem. Thanks for your help Jim.

Doug
fullsack

[another_jim]

The Brewtus uses an AKO-13120 controller, ako.com. The sheet states "The controller must be installed in a place...where the ambient temperature does not surpass the value specified in the technical data." The working ambient temp range in the tech data is 5C to 40C. The boiler is insulated and a few inches from the controller. From what you said, it looks like the internal temp isn't the problem.

???

Must be a heck of an insulation. Of course, these controllers will usually work at higher temperatures, but I expect they will be swapping out quite a few of them during the warranty period.

[Fullsack]

???

While I was writing this post I was looking at the temp range for the controller itself -50C to 99C, not the working ambient temp. I changed the temp specs to working ambient, but forgot to edit the "From what you said..." sentence.

BTW, what a great thread on the Elektra Semiautomatica!

Doug
fullsack

[JimG]

Panel controllers like the ubiquitous Fuji PXRs are rated to operate to 50C; which should be OK if a good location is chosen inside the case. There's more rugged controls spec'ed to 80C, even 95C, designed for the insides of hot equipment. [snip]

While most of the popular controllers used to "PID" a Silvia are rated for 50C environments, Watlow controllers are rated for use in 65C (149F) ambient environment. I have one installed in the boiler compartment of a Silvia where it has been happy for almost 9 months (so far so good). No special "Pepe style" insulation (but I did fit a small aluminum shield between the controller and the boiler, hoping to maybe cut down on radiant heating of the black plastic of the controller).

Periodically, I measure the ambient temp at the controller to see if it *should* be cooking. Generally, the temp runs between 135F and 145F after several hours. Steaming has caused temporary spikes to just above 150F. So, based strictly on those measurements and my experience, and casting all good judgment aside, you might conclude that a front panel mount on Silvia is OK with the Watlow controllers.

I should also mention that I haven't observed any problems with the controller's CJC circuitry (an infrequently mentioned problem with high ambient temp's). The controller display readings remain pretty consistent as compared to a decent digital thermometer, regardless of ambient temp.

I am not advocating that others start sawing holes in Silvia's like I did - but thought this thread might be a good place to share my data.

Jim G.