malachi wrote:You are entirely entitled to your opinion - but I am equally entitled to state that it is just that and nothing more... your opinion (with no basis in any facts).
Third-wave = nothing more than "reject dogma, learn through experimentation."
If what you're saying is that I should stop thinking, stop tasting, stop learning and merely ape the Italians than I would be proud to call myself "third wave."
As I mentioned in a discussion with Chris Bacca recently (upon his return from Milan), the coffee situation in Italy is the reverse of here in the US. In Italy - it's hard to get bad espresso (but impossible to get great coffee). In the US - it's hard to get drinkable espresso (but there are people doing truly great coffee).
I, for one, am uninterested in finding merely "drinkable" espresso.
I want great coffee.
There was a time when a lot of people thought that California chardonnay whose flavor had been replaced by oak represented an improvement over what came out of the grape.
The stated observations on Italian espresso are nothing new and have been repeated over and over again the last 10 or more years in online venues such as alt.coffee and this web forum. And, truly great coffee exists in quite a few places, not just in a small number of highly touted N. American cafes.
There is nothing magical about what is done in Italy. As you state, they have got the consistency part down, largely because they use the equipment with the sort of dose of coffee for which it is designed. The negative part of what they do in Italy is that they use uninteresting (if drinkable) coffees blended in a way to produce a consistent if boring and flat taste profile. The Italians have not been pioneers in single origin espresso and have basically concentrated on trying to make unexceptional but good, consistent, espresso from unimpressive and ordinary coffees.
I have considerable experience with updosing, having done it for the great majority of my own personal experience with espressomaking; it was, in fact, the only thing that I knew. When I reluctantly started experimenting with lower, "Italianish" type dosing, it became obvious that those who had (indirectly) taught me how to make this beverage didn't know beans about it themselves, and in fact had taken a perfectly good process developed by Italians and diminished it.
But we are not in Italy and we have access to some really fine single origins, the blending of which would be almost criminal as it would diminish them. These coffees, competently roasted, do not make good updosed shots. The only coffees, in fact, that make better updosed shots (than ~14g-ish shots) are blends designed for updosing. Those sorts of in-your-face blends taste dull when dosed at 14g or thereabouts.
When I compare blends designed for updosing, in shots dosed as they were designed for, to shots made from good single origins at 14g, the comparison is like a fine Chablis (the SO) vs. an over-oaked, overdone, California chardonnay of the 1980s. There are people who like this sort of stuff, and who am I to question it?
To each his own.
ken