by Genesis on Sat May 19, 2007 1:21 pm
Its very simple.
Remove the wires from the pressure stat and connect them to the power (contact) side of the SSR.
Determine which is the "hot" side (you can do this with a VOM or by tracing the wires in the unit) and connect that to one pressure stat terminal. The other goes to the "trigger" side of the SSR, and the other side of the SSR trigger connection goes back to neutral (white wire on the inlet cord.)
When the pressurestat closes it applies 110V to the "trigger" side of the SSR, which closes the connection on the power side and energizes the heater.
The exact connection points depend on the particular machine, but this is typically about a 15 minute deal. The biggest issue is figuring out where to stick the SSR where it can't get wet and won't short out, yet will dissipate the heat required (the frame of the machne makes a suitable heat sink, but you need to deal with finding a place where you can mount it and it won't get wet from spit off the vacuum breaker, etc)
This is one of the reasons I like the Quickmill machines - they did this right up front. This is the sort of thoughtfulness that's in the REST of the machine, and I like it a lot. If I had a machine that had direct connection from the pressurestat to the heater it would be the very first thing I'd do with it before I used it, because those heaters draw a LOT of current and there's no reason to run that through a set of mechanical contacts with SSRs being $20-25!
Use a 25A SSR so you have some margin (a 20A is technically ok for most machines but I like to upsize so as to gain more margin with thermal derating, especially in applications like this)