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What do you look for in a good tamper? - Page 4

Postby Woofy on Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:14 am

Adding to all I've seen, it's important to have an insert at the top of the handle where the logo is often located that allows gentle tapping without marring the finish of either portafilter or tamper. Delrin plastic or other softer, non-marring material can be fashioned into all sorts of logos and would be fine. I just don't want to knock my gorgeously finished exotic hardwood wood handle (damaging the handle's finish) or tamper base (damaging the finish on both portafilter and base's finish) against the portafilter when I'm in the mood to tap.
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Postby j7on on Fri Dec 30, 2005 6:32 am

I have been reading about tampers lately and the "trend" now seems to be "perfect fit" tampers, but when i asked around in shops everyone is trying to sell tampers that are just as bad a fit as the plastic one that came with my Pavoni :? "..yes, yes it should be like that"

Should i order a tamper that has like 0,5mm of play around the edges(snug) or go with the standard "bad fit" 2-3mm around the edges(coffee rises up on the sides) :?
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Postby HB on Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:49 am

For those who want minimal clearance, Reg Barber offers custom-fitted pistons to 0.1mm for a reasonable fee. On the other extreme is the 2-3mm of clearance you describe; I suppose if you do a Staub "four corner" tamp, such a gap is tolerable. However, I prefer a millimeter or less clearance.
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Postby barry on Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:19 am

HB wrote:For those who want minimal clearance, Reg Barber offers custom-fitted pistons to 0.1mm for a reasonable fee.


of course, you'll have to have a new tamper base made anytime you change baskets.... the stamping tolerances aren't that good.
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Postby cannonfodder on Sun Jan 01, 2006 2:39 am

Keep in mind that you may have a reducing slope to the basket. So a .7 mm gap at the top of the basket may be reduced to a sub .5mm gap at the proper tamp depth. If you get a custom turned base, you have to take your caliper measurements at the level your tamper bottom will be at, at the end of the tamp (that is a confusing sentence). Take it at the top of the basket and you may end up with a tamper base stuck in your basket. Like Barry points out, a perfect fit tamper for this basket may not fit another basket of the same size.

I just use the good old 'standard' size, 58mm for my E61 and 51mm for my lever.
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Postby zin1953 on Mon Jan 02, 2006 1:03 pm

Flat bottom or convex?
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Postby cannonfodder on Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:52 pm

zin1953 wrote:Flat bottom or convex?


That is another lengthy and controversial discussion. Personally, I use a convex on my Millennium because it has a convex shower screen, my Factory lever has a flat shower screen and I use a flat tamper. That way I have an even headspace across the puck.
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Postby FredtheWhale on Wed Apr 18, 2007 4:46 pm

I've been looking around and have found a wide range of material used for the tamper base:
Wood, Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass ....

Is there a difference for the shot or taste or sanitation (I don't know if there's a problem mixing coffee grounds with different materials or alloys)
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Postby espressme on Wed Apr 18, 2007 10:00 pm

FredtheWhale wrote:I've been looking around and have found a wide range of material used for the tamper base:
Wood, Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass ....

Is there a difference for the shot or taste or sanitation (I don't know if there's a problem mixing coffee grounds with different materials or alloys)

My 1¢
In my opinion, Each material has a special attribute, beauty, durability, and tactile pleasure. Each material may be used with a proper finish or in such a manner that less than perfect qualities are not important. In other words, a material which in hot water for extended periods of time could be perhaps a pollutant will in a basically dry application be fine. Toxic/noxious woods ( there are many) will not be a problem if finished with a food grade material. Most metals polish easily and woods can be washed and oiled ( Olive or walnut oils are common.) Some ceramic glazes are made from toxic materials but in dry usage there is no way for the metals to leach out. Some of the ""natural"" cleaners are more toxic than all but a few of the reactive metals. Of course stainless steel, (grade 316) being food grade for use under conditions of heat and moisture, would always be safe.?!?!

Life is a trade off and we make the best decisions we can for the usage we envision.

Image
sincerely
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Postby cyclones on Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:58 pm

What about comfort? Are some of these more comfortable to use/easier on the hand?
If given a choice between Starbucks and espresso, I'll choose espresso every time.
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