Used Fiorenzato Bricoletta loses pressure? - Page 3

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roccster (original poster)
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#21: Post by roccster (original poster) »

That is some great pics, Eric. Thanx a lot!!

At least now I got a view on what parts we are talking about, and what they do :)

Did a connect of the machine again today to see if the machine was filled with water at all, and now It didnt even heat up. I know water is present (removed the cable from the water level probe just to see if the pump kicked in). So water is present alright, but no heating going on.

"Luckily" I got a service company specialized in Bricoletta cause now I believe that I need some pros picking it apart. Gonna cost me though...

I thank you all for the time you have put in this project. No matter what happens it is really nice to know what they are talking about when they get back with a price proposal, and to check what the parts actually cost.

roccster (original poster)
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#22: Post by roccster (original poster) »

Which part is this:


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erics
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#23: Post by erics »

The solenoid coil that "powers" the boiler fill valve.
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E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

roccster (original poster)
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#24: Post by roccster (original poster) »

So if the boiler fills with water at least this one is ok, right?

Did you see my post about the machine not heating at all, does that still have to do with the pstat?

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erics
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#25: Post by erics »

With the machine off and unplugged, remove the vacuum breaker valve and check the level of water in the boiler using a small wooden dowel. A proper boiler water level is ABOUT 2/3 full. Syphon out about 8 ounces of water.

Plug the machine in and turn it on. After a couple of seconds, the pump should run and refill the boiler. Check the boiler water level now and it should be, maybe, 1/8"-1/4" above your initial check. Replace the vacuum breaker valve.

With the machine off and unplugged check all of your electrical connections as previously advised. The initial problem you had/have of wildly fluctuating boiler pressure is indicative of a sticky pstat or relay contacts not fully opening. When the boiler will not heat at all, that's usually the RL1 relay internal to the Gicar box (the part labeled RL30 . . . in your 5th pic).

But now, it gets a little confusing for me because of the pstat/Finder relay and the RL1 relay in the Gicar box. Couple this with the pic I showed you of the "missing lamp" and the fact that this pstat/relay looks pretty new and you should appreciate the fact that troubleshooting this over the "net" is difficult, at best.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

roccster (original poster)
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#26: Post by roccster (original poster) »

Im sorry Eric, really just shooting blanks and trying to understand as much as possible (over the internet) :)

I should have mentioned before i started rambling on about the heating that I did a thorough cable check before plugging it in (this time).

Why the lamp is missing is still a mystery. Haven't gotten an explanation about that yet.

Can you replace only the relay, or do you have to replace the entire box (if that is the case)?

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erics
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#27: Post by erics »

Haven't gotten an explanation about that yet.
Perhaps the previous owner could fill you in? The point being that this lamp typically gets a power signal from the pstat and that particular pstat configuration is, I believe, not the usual for Mr. Bric. The service facility would spot that in a heartbeat - assuming I am on the right track.

Any faulty relay can be replaced - not exactly plug and play - but rather desolder and resolder. That may not be your service facility's normal modus operandi because the final cost to the end user could be close.
Skål,

Eric S.
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E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

roccster (original poster)
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#28: Post by roccster (original poster) »

I really need to start writing what Im thinking :)

I meant that I haven't got an explanation on the lamp by the previous owner (not you) :D

Kinda suspected that on the relay. Looking at some seriously expensive repairs then... "sigh"

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erics
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#29: Post by erics »

Looking at some seriously expensive repairs then... "sigh"
Not necessarily. How close is this service facility? Can you take them the machine undressed? Are they willing to share an electrical diagram with you applicable to your particular serial number machine? Go to my crude FTP sight below my sig on these postings and look at some of the electrical diagrams there and, perhaps, email me at erics at erols dot com.
Skål,

Eric S.
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E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

roccster (original poster)
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#30: Post by roccster (original poster) »

Time for an update...

First visit to the service shop, result:

Change of electronics (not the entire p-stat). Everything worked fine until I arrived, and then it behaved the same again. They decided to change the entire p-stat, since they didn't have it in stock I brought it back with me. After plugging it in (at home), it started heating just fine. Pressure steady at 1, I can here the electronic switch (rather loud actually) as soon as it drops below 1, and the heater starts heating. When hitting +1 it clicks again and is stable at 1.

It behaved like this for about 30min, then it stoped. I could see the pressure slowly droping, and I couldnt here the click of (what I believe is the pstat). I turned it off and on, and it started heating again. When it reached 1 I heard the click and the pressure was stable for a while, but when it started to drop below 1 it did not click.

What is the clicking, p-stat?

I will replace the p-stat next week, and I really hope this will help.

Well just an update.