Steam boiler problem after descaling...Anita - Page 2
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- erics
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There may very well be another problem (or two) but take this a step at a time. A singular leak over a period of time can easily look like multiple faults. Certainly use two wrenches when disassembling the vacuum breaker - a 17 mm may fit . . . 11/16" definitely fits on both hexes.
Replacement boiler insulation is available but I would locate the production date of your machine and call Chris' Coffee to ensure that improvements to the insulation have been made when compared to what you have.
Why would you think that a new element is required?
BTW, if you separate your pics insertion with a "hard return" it will make viewing easier.
Replacement boiler insulation is available but I would locate the production date of your machine and call Chris' Coffee to ensure that improvements to the insulation have been made when compared to what you have.
Why would you think that a new element is required?
BTW, if you separate your pics insertion with a "hard return" it will make viewing easier.
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- Posts: 44
- Joined: 13 years ago
I replaced the vacuum valve after cleaning it in white vinegar for 30 minutes (is the white plastic thing in the vacuum breaker suppose to fit tight in the part that stay stuck to the boiler?)
No change at all. Machine does not get hotter than 170, no pressure in the boiler, no water or steam from the wands, red light always on.
There is a constant noise of heating water but the pump to refill the boiler never seems to start like it usually does after a couple of minute with the red light on.
When I pull a shot with a blind basket the grouphead pressure go up to 9.5 and stay there for the duration of the shot.
I don't see any leaking parts...
Can the vacuum breaker still be faulty even if clean?
Eric: I was thinking of the element because the machine never reach the usual temperature...
Whats next?
Thanks
No change at all. Machine does not get hotter than 170, no pressure in the boiler, no water or steam from the wands, red light always on.
There is a constant noise of heating water but the pump to refill the boiler never seems to start like it usually does after a couple of minute with the red light on.
When I pull a shot with a blind basket the grouphead pressure go up to 9.5 and stay there for the duration of the shot.
I don't see any leaking parts...
Can the vacuum breaker still be faulty even if clean?
Eric: I was thinking of the element because the machine never reach the usual temperature...
Whats next?
Thanks
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- Posts: 187
- Joined: 13 years ago
The visible corrosion on the heating element leads could be the problem. Higher resistance will reduce the heat output of the element.
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- Posts: 44
- Joined: 13 years ago
Is it possible to clean the leads? Or do I have to change everything?
Thanks
Thanks
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- Posts: 187
- Joined: 13 years ago
Test it first before you start replacing things.
Unplug the machine from the wall. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the element at the terminals. For a 1400 watt element it should be about 9.5 ohms. If that is correct, move back down the leads from the element until you find a clean connection and measure again. If the resistance increases, either the leads or the connections at the element are bad.
If you don't feel comfortable playing with the electrical parts, find a friend who is familiar with electricity to help, but make sure not to check anything with the machine plugged in.
Unplug the machine from the wall. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the element at the terminals. For a 1400 watt element it should be about 9.5 ohms. If that is correct, move back down the leads from the element until you find a clean connection and measure again. If the resistance increases, either the leads or the connections at the element are bad.
If you don't feel comfortable playing with the electrical parts, find a friend who is familiar with electricity to help, but make sure not to check anything with the machine plugged in.
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I'm in the middle of the slowest teardown/deep cleaning of an Andreja ever. I had the old nasty green insulation. The black & foiled stuff is the newest version that Chris Coffee has.
- erics
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You're almost correct . The latest is a white foam w/ a foil outer cover. I just bought some from them - ~$15 - to replace my antique (and hardened) green.The black & foiled stuff is the newest version that Chris Coffee has.
- erics
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Most definitely, unplug the machine before you start measuring. Put one probe of the ohmmeter at screw terminal 2/T1 of the SSR and the other in the wire terminal at the safety thermostat.
As regards the vacuum breaker, the "white plastic thing" is the seat for the valve. It should be a very light push fit into the fitting which remains in the boiler. You can always keep the hose removed from the barbed fitting - there should be no leakage from the valve after about 5-10 minutes of warmup.
I agree that the heating element is operating at reduced power because Anita will maintain boiler pressure with the steam valve fully open and that is a lot more than a leaky vacuum breaker. After you measure the resistance, we need to make sure that the boiler has proper water level - the autofill not kicking in is a little troubling - better safe than sorry. Give me a call at 301-587-5033 if you run into trouble - we finally have full facilities here on the east coast.
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Arrrgh! I spoke with Robb just a week ago to have that added to my order! Poo.erics wrote:You're almost correct . The latest is a white foam w/ a foil outer cover. I just bought some from them - ~$15 - to replace my antique (and hardened) green.
Edit: just went through the box. I have a greyish foiled covered insulation--I really need to look at my stuff when it arrives, not just check packing slips. My bad.