I don't like the black group cap on the Speedster, or the GS3 for that matter. While in NZ, I went to a local metal spinner and had him work up a stainless steel group cap (two actually, in case one didn't work out), then off to the welders and metal polishers and a day later it was all done. I didn't want it to cost a lot, so I had to go with the templates he already had, rather than commission a new one. I would have preferred a gentle curve on the top vs flat.

So here it is on the machine.







Versus the stock cap



I'm not sure if I like it or not. I think a curve would look better, although I am tempted to see what it would look like with the eagle of the MCaL on it, kinda like a hood ornament, but unfortunately left it in NZ. That might cross the line to garish though...

Thoughts/ideas/comments?

Cheers, Chris

WoW...
GORGEOUS machine..
for me it looks beautiful with both.. sorry because I'm sure that's not of any help for you..

is the machine as good as it look?
if it is I'm envy..!

gyro wrote: I am tempted to see what it would look like with the eagle of the MCaL on it, kinda like a hood ornament, but unfortunately left it in NZ. That might cross the line to garish though...

Thoughts/ideas/comments?

Get the Porsche 'Speedster' trunk/fender replica badge from one of the Porsche aftermarket parts guys, and a Porsche logo badge (they have them both in gold plate), and but the logo on the cap, and the fender badge on the front.

gyro wrote:I'm not sure if I like it or not. I think a curve would look better

I like the "curve" idea; also, something with a softer, more tactile feel -- perhaps made of silicone rubber instead of stainless?

AndyS wrote:I like the "curve" idea; also, something with a softer, more tactile feel -- perhaps made of silicone rubber instead of stainless

Ha! It sounds like you've already put some thought into this for your one Andy!

Working on a couple caps for a GS3 in wood. Turned a couple, working on getting the fitting correct but I have reservations as to the durability of a wood cap on the hot group.

You know what would look really cool, aside Andy's big nipple, black chrome. It would retain the contrast and give you the shine. Black chrome was popular on bikes a few years ago.

I think switching from the black to just more stainless, especially a very flat piece, takes away from the design. The black cap provided contrast which made it interesting. Still, plastic seems sort of inherently cheap-looking, with few exceptions, so I very much understand the desire to eliminate it. I like this, though IMO you would need to fix the plastic side panels on the GS3 before adding that. More walnut sounds like a good idea; glass is also cute. With wood, I imagine the worry is of course how it stands up to the constant flux of temperature. If I wanted to stick with the style of the Speedster but still keep the good looks, and I wasn't worried about having a top that got scalding hot, I'd go with (maybe stainless) steel turned to look identical in shape to the original cap and have it powder-coated in a mirror-gloss black, to match the stripes on the side. I really wonder why Kees didn't make the cap out of the same material the portafilter handles are made out of. It looks pretty nice.

[edit]Written before Dave's comments, which I've echoed in part and also love the idea of the black chrome.[/edit]

It's probably just the lawyer in me, but doesn't that stainless cap get awfully hot for the reach-over to the cups?

Marshall wrote:It's probably just the lawyer in me, but doesn't that stainless cap get awfully hot for the reach-over to the cups?

Yup, but less than an e61 and its quite low. I actually bough a silicone mat which I cut out and put underneath, but it didn't really seem to make much difference. There is an air gap anyway which I guess provides some insulation, the only part actually touching is the central bolt.

cannonfodder wrote:Working on a couple caps for a GS3 in wood. Turned a couple, working on getting the fitting correct but I have reservations as to the durability of a wood cap on the hot group.

You know what would look really cool, aside Andy's big nipple, black chrome. It would retain the contrast and give you the shine. Black chrome was popular on bikes a few years ago.

I'll be interested to see how the wooden ones turn out (and last). I like the black chrome idea alot actually. I have got to get a couple of parts on the MCaL rechromed next time I am in NZ, so I might get the second cap done in black chrome. I assume you can chrome on stainless? (these ones were just polished)

shadowfax wrote:I think switching from the black to just more stainless, especially a very flat piece, takes away from the design. The black cap provided contrast which made it interesting. Still, plastic seems sort of inherently cheap-looking, with few exceptions, so I very much understand the desire to eliminate it.

Yeah, I really don't like the black cap, but the actual design of it is quite cool. I like the e61 look, but I think due to the 'flatness' of the cap that its missed the mark on that one.

shadowfax wrote:I'd go with (maybe stainless) steel turned to look identical in shape to the original cap and have it powder-coated in a mirror-gloss black, to match the stripes on the side.

I had to use templates he had in stock as it was going to be too pricey otherwise. As he was a metal spinner (not using a lathe) it would also be impossible to get the 'undercut' on the original groupcap since the taper back inwards towards the base would prevent you removing it from the template.

Perhaps next time I am south, I might investigate a lathe approach if its not too cost prohibitive. Replicating the original in metal and black chrome does sound pretty cool.

Cheers, Chris

AndyS wrote:I like the "curve" idea; also, something with a softer, more tactile feel -- perhaps made of silicone rubber instead of stainless?

Andy, I say this as a friend: I think they may have support groups for recovering Photoshop abusers back on the East Coast.

Best,
David

Chris, if you find a metalworker with a lathe... I think you can black-chrome Aluminum with some to-do (intermediate process/coating), and Aluminum is dramatically cheaper and easier/faster to cut on a lathe than stainless steel. It'll get scalding hot about twice as fast or more compared to stainless, but I imagine they're ultimately about equally dangerous as regards that aspect, since you're generally only using the machine when it's fully heated.

gyro wrote:Yup, but less than an e61 and its quite low. I actually bough a silicone mat which I cut out and put underneath, but it didn't really seem to make much difference. There is an air gap anyway which I guess provides some insulation, the only part actually touching is the central bolt.

FWIW, don't think that a saturated grouphead is any less scalding than an E61. They both normalize around brew temp when you're actively using them, and either one is way over 150F... I think most everybody's nerves feel such incredible pain at such temperatures that there's not a lot of room left for perceiving a 10-20F degree temperature delta. Still, as you say, the single-bolt mounting ought to dramatically delay it heating up. It will still heat up way more than a plastic cap, and deliver that heat to skin much faster, but... seriously, folks. Ever seen the Synesso Cyncra?


The metal next to the brew switch is hot, but not scalding, even when the machine's been on for days.

Andy... sometimes you disturb me. I second the recommendation for photoshopaholics anonymous, and also would like to say that you clearly have a very different idea of "machine tweaking" than the rest of us.

Nick,

I have no experience with the temperature of the Speedster group cap, but the one on my Cyncra one group measures 115 degrees F at the hottest point, with the brew boiler presently set at 203.5. My steam boiler is insulated, but the brew boiler is the relevant one, of course, since the group is saturated. The external parts of the grouphead below the cap, of course, get much hotter.

Andy's silicone mod would work well on the Cyncra as well.

BTW, there is such thing as too much stainless steel. I had to get the black side panel additions for my Cyncra to avoid toxic stainless steel levels in my kitchen.

Perhaps Kees could develop a lucrative sideline market for alternative caps for the Speedster, although it is the most beautiful machine on the market, and needs no cosmetic improvements, IMHO.

-MIke