www.baratza.com: skilled in the art of grinding

Restoring Olympia Caffarex with boiler issues - need advice

Postby garth breaks on Sat Dec 04, 2010 7:32 pm

Hey everybody,
I've wanted to try my hand at restoring an HX machine for some time and today my chance arrived.
I was able to pick up a gorgeous Olympia Caffarex that looks to be nearly mint except for one fatal flaw...

Image
The thread running from the base of the boiler to the sight level has corroded and developed a hole in it.
Looks to me like I'll have to find a shop that can cut it out and weld in a new one, but before I do so, I wanted to hit up fellow HB'ers for advice regarding the best fix (if it can be fixed) as well as recommendations for companies that could do a proper job on it.
I paid next to nothing for the machine, so I'm not terribly stressed about it as I know if worst came to worst I could part it out, but I'd really like to get this back to its old glory. I've presently got a Cremina and a Club and I feel like my espresso machine hoarding may finally die down if I've got the holy trinity of Olympia machines...
Here are a few other pictures (I apologize for the lousy quality, I shot them with my phone).
All other parts appear to be there & intact (hopefully working too).
I welcome any advice regarding how best to fix my corroded connection.
Thanks!

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
garth breaks
 
Posts: 101
Joined: Jun 08, 2007
Location: Toronto

Postby erics on Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:12 am

Good find on a collectible machine!

I would measure the OD of the corroded fitting and, if it is 0.518", it is a 1/4" BSPP pipe nipple with a hex base. New fittings are available from a variety of sources - here is one: http://www.espressoparts.com/variousfittings - I would buy two just for insurance.

The boiler looks like it is nickel plated and this plating needs to be removed in the repair area. Rather than cut the fitting out, I would simply(?) try to melt the solder and remove the part. Naturally, all of this is done with the boiler removed from the machine.

An alternative would be to clean the existing fitting with a small steel "toothbrush" and white vinegar, carefully apply some epoxy compound to the corroded area and reform the threading. This MIGHT give you the opportunity to operate the machine and determine if there exists any "show stoppers" in other areas.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at erols dot com
User avatar
erics
 
Posts: 2986
Joined: Aug 09, 2005
Location: Silver Spring, MD

Postby Ozark_61 on Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:27 am

I assume it's a copper line that runs to the sight glass? Along Eric's thread - JB Weld?
User avatar
Ozark_61
 
Posts: 196
Joined: Aug 06, 2005
Location: Springfield, MO

Postby garth breaks on Sun Dec 05, 2010 12:00 pm

Thanks for the advice so far - much appreciated.
Ozark_61, what do you mean by "JB" weld? Sorry, this level of restoration is new to me.
Thanks,

-GB.
garth breaks
 
Posts: 101
Joined: Jun 08, 2007
Location: Toronto

Postby HB on Sun Dec 05, 2010 12:29 pm

J-B Weld is the brand name of an epoxy (marketing blurb: "J-B Weld is a remarkably easy, convenient and inexpensive alternative to welding, soldering and brazing.").
Dan Kehn
User avatar
HB
 
Posts: 13168
Joined: Apr 29, 2005
Location: Cary, NC

Postby erics on Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:21 pm

Yes, JB Weld was the first thought I had although there are probably dozens of equal epoxies. I'd treat this as a temporary repair just to get the entire machine operational. Corrosion usually isn't too selective as regards where it is found and this problem may be the "tip of the iceberg".

Fit a wooden dowel into the hole and apply the epoxy to the external surfaces sparingly. After you confirm the size of that fitting you might want to also buy some 1/4" BSPP nuts to use in reforming the threads in the affected area.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at erols dot com
User avatar
erics
 
Posts: 2986
Joined: Aug 09, 2005
Location: Silver Spring, MD
www.seattlecoffeegear.com: let us help you find the right gear
www.seattlecoffeegear.com: let us help you find the right gear

Postby cannonfodder on Mon Dec 06, 2010 12:08 am

It looks like the line beside the corroded one has been torqued/twisted and the boiler by the fitting bent in. Someone really man handled that fitting to do that. You are going to have to pull the boiler out, take it to a welding shop and have them braise in a new fitting. Hopefully, the rest of the boiler is not eaten up as well. You may have difficulty getting the fitting replaced. Since that is a pressure vessel, some shops will not touch it for liability reasons. Nice machine and a keeper if everything else is in good order but I would give the inside of the boiler and all the other fittings a good inspection to make sure there are no more hidden problems. You dont want a boiler to rupture.
Dave Stephens
User avatar
cannonfodder
Team HB
 
Posts: 6812
Joined: May 23, 2005
Location: Downingtown PA

Postby garth breaks on Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:30 pm

Thanks for the feedback so far folks.
I've got some good and bad news.
The good news, is that I had some time to noodle around with the machine last night and was able to determine that the element is still good.
The bad news is that I took a peek down the boiler fill tube and it looks like the HX is cracked (see photo).

Image

While definitely disappointing, I haven't yet given up hope. I remembered an old HB thread about a repaired HX unit on a Caffarex and was able to track it down here - Olympia Caffarex.
I took the liberty of lifting the following photo showing Youjest's repaired HX.

Image

In the thread, he refers to the fix as "John K's" handiwork. Anyone know John K?

Lastly, I was able to measure the cracked fitting:

Image

Does that look like 1/4" BSPP? I'm beginning to think I should have measured from the inside - if so, please forgive the noob mistake.
garth breaks
 
Posts: 101
Joined: Jun 08, 2007
Location: Toronto

Postby cannonfodder on Tue Dec 07, 2010 8:12 pm

That is not good. It was obviously stored with water in it. You could have some bad solenoids as well. It is all a matter of what had water in it when it froze. You will need to get to know you local welder. That fitting will need a new one welded on and the HX will need welded back together. Hopefully it is not split completely open on the back side or bulged to the point it cannot be pulled out of the boiler.
Dave Stephens
User avatar
cannonfodder
Team HB
 
Posts: 6812
Joined: May 23, 2005
Location: Downingtown PA

Postby erics on Tue Dec 07, 2010 8:19 pm

Does that look like 1/4" BSPP?

Absolutely
I'm beginning to think I should have measured from the inside

Delete that thought.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at erols dot com
User avatar
erics
 
Posts: 2986
Joined: Aug 09, 2005
Location: Silver Spring, MD

Next

Return to Espresso Machines