Time for a bit of a progress report. The machine did not come with the drip well that mounts under the main drip tray. I found the part online at a number of sites, but I could not bring myself to shell out $45 for a hunk of plastic. After a bit of searching around at Home Depot and Lowes, I assembled a simple collection of parts to build my own for $7. I used an end cap for 4" abs pipe, a right-angle barbed abs fitting, and a pvc adapter (alas, it did not come in abs, but it won't show under the machine). I already had the brass toilet tank bolt and washer. I had to trim the height of the cap to make it fit, but overall it was a simple project. Works like a charm.

Preview
Since I do woodworking as a hobby, I decided to incorporate some wood into my project. The metal control panel was in rough shape, and it seemed like a good place to make a substitution. I think it's going to look sharp.

Ross,

This reminds me why I love amateur restorations so much.

Thanks for letting us join you on your wonderful journey.

I hope that by amateur you mean "first time restorer" and not "Oh, no, he's using duct tape and bailing wire. This is going to be fun to watch."

Ross

Ha, absolutely not the latter. Your work looks pretty professional to me. The wood panel looks quite nice.

I also think you are doing a fine job! Perhaps some beautiful wooden portafilter handles to match.

Mark

Thanks, guys. The portafilter handles would be fun. I don't currently own a lathe, but recently I've been keeping my eyes peeled for craigslist deal for that very reason.

I haven't got to polishing the stainless, but I wanted to get the machine assembled to use during Christmas. The stainless bits are easy to remove, for the most part. The upper section with the steam wand handles requires a bit of extra work to remove, but shouldn't take too much effort.

Here's a shot with the wood panel in place. A couple more coats of poly and I'll be able to drop in the controls and indicator lamps.



Above the panel is my new bottomless portafilter from Great Infusions. It seems to fit correctly, but a little looser than the original. I may need to add a shim below the group gasket to help it lock-in a little tighter. I've only tried it once (prior to assembling all the exterior panels) and I got a generous spray everywhere, including around the gasket. Hopefully, my next attempt will be a little less explosive.


I had to replace the dual gauge because the boiler pressure half was damaged. Since installing the new gauge, I've reduced the pstat so the gauge reads about 1.2 bar at the top of the cycle. My initial attempt to check the group temp with the cup of water and candy thermometer reads pretty low (about 185), so either the thermometer is off, or the gauge is off, or the shot glass lost the heat very quickly. I need to buy a instant-read digital thermometer and check it again. I do get a few seconds of sputtering on the initial flush, so I know it's hotter than 185. Lots of tuning ahead.

Ross

While you are at it, ditch the stock knobs and portafilter handles and make yourself a matching set. If you are using polyurethane make sure to get the back of your panel. There is a lot of heat and moisture around that panel, you may get some warp or bow if it is not sealed up. I use WaterLox gloss Marine finish on wood that will see damp conditions.

Dave,
That's some nice work. Cocobolo? Now I have to get a lathe.

Yeah, I plan to apply at least as many coats on the back side as the front. I used a piece of lauan on the back as a substrate for the plank of bocote that is visible. The lauan will soak-up the poly, so I hope that will be enough to protect it. I also thought about attaching a thin piece of rigid sheet insulation to the back side for extra protection.

Ross

Nope, although I had a set of Cocobolo on a lever machine. That is tight grained stabilized Bocote. Lathes are fun, been spinning my machine most of the day working on a couple of projects.

Dave - interesting that I chose the same wood for my panel. It does look nice.

Ross

I've got the panel installed with new indicator lamps. One of them had been burnt-out, so I replaced them both so the bezels would be identical. It's not so easy finding 220v lamps!

I also determined that one of the flowmeters was bad, because I could program the auto dosing on whichever control pad was attached to one of the flowmeters but not the other. Got one on order from espressoparts.

Both steam wand valves probably should be rebuilt because I really have to crank on them to get them to close fully. That's probably not good. And, I may be heading for a pump replacement (I posted in a new thread). We'll see.

Here's the current state:

I'm not usually a wood fan, but that bezel really looks great! Can't wait to see more.

Looking really nice there. With a bit of care you could use a drill press as a make shift lathe. So you can match up your handles. See http://www.instructables.com/id/Drill-Press-Lathe/

BTW: Stefano at http://www.espressocare.com also has the 220v indicator lamps. I almost accidentally ordered them for my Elektra rebuild. Luckily he phone me and I switched to the 110v ones.

Mark

I've been working on a couple odds-and-ends on my project. I bought a bottomless PF recently, and while it fit the machine, the bayonets were not as thick as those on the existing PF, so I couldn't tighten it up enough to keep it from leaking when in use. I made a thin gasket to go underneath the rubber group gasket. I used a roll of material from the auto parts store. With it in place, I get a nice, tight seal with the new PF.



I also needed to replace one of the flowmeters. I've had some problems finding replacement parts that are shown on the Bezzera exploded diagrams, so I've improvised with homemade substitutes. On the flowmeter, the brass fitting is supposed to tighten against a ptfe tube. This was missing on the original flowmeter (the last person to service the machine used tons of teflon tape to achieve a watertight fit - almost). I punched some disks from a silicone potholder that seem to be working as a substitute.




I still need to do something about the motor. I've looked into having the existing one repaired, but just to have someone look at it will cost me $75. I'm planning to just order a new one.

That's the progress so far.

Ross