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Restoration: Using Wood in a Rebuild

Postby HansaCoffee on Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:16 pm

I have searched this topic and I have not seen anyone post on this so if this has been covered already, my sincerest apologies. I am restoring an Astoria Divina. I am going to build a custom housing out of wood as I am not impressed with the with the plastic paneling. Question is, has anyone here experimented with this? Any warping issues?
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Postby Chert on Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:36 pm

I, too, am working some with wood. No warping in two weeks :? using wood to support the side panels of a temporary surround. But I have been pretty meticulous to allow no boiler fitting leaks.

Here is an inspiring custom rebuild using wood to excellent effect (EPNW custom LM GS2 in Walnut): http://www.flickr.com/photos/espressoparts/sets/72157623258167834/show/.

I have also resorted to wood to support a driptray that does not fit my machine. This is not a longterm solution since water does drip through a hole in the wood. Surely over time there will be issues.
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Postby HansaCoffee on Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:10 pm

The Intelli machine was actually my initial inspiration. I have been talking with a boat-building friend of mine, and he suggested that a marine grade epoxy would protect the wood from warping. The portafilter hand and steam wand knobs look like a fun project as well.
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Postby Randy G. on Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:15 pm

There are plenty of boats made from wood out there. You have lots of choices for wood sealers which will protect wood. You could even use fiberglass resin on the inside which would also add some strength and seal the wood up quite well.
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Postby mhoy on Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:18 pm

I think nice wood will look great. The marine grade epoxy works on boats so on a dry (or mostly dry) system you should be good to go. I soaked some exposed outside 4"x12" wood beams in a LOT of marine penetrating epoxy. I think you could float my beams in water and they wouldn't get damaged.

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Postby cannonfodder on Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:51 am

It will not work. I have been asked more than a few times about making a wood case for an espresso machine. The issue is not the humidity. You could seal it with a marine finish, I use one on my custom shaving brushes. The issue is the heat. It will blister most finishes and the excessive heat will dry/warp/crack the wood over time. The Intelli LM uses walnut in trim locations such as paddle levers, trim panels, etc and not the primary machine case beside the boilers if I remember correctly.
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Postby Chert on Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:58 am

cannonfodder wrote:The Intelli LM uses walnut in trim locations such as paddle levers, trim panels, etc and not the primary machine case beside the boilers if I remember correctly.


You are correct, but there is a substantial wood piece surrounding the cupholding top surface. If the boiler area is robustly insulated, would the heat still exact it's toll on a piece of accent wood around the bottom, as part of a stylized surround? Do you know if that Intelli piece is a workhorse or more of a trophy?
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Postby cannonfodder on Tue Feb 22, 2011 1:06 am

Do not know. I would assume that is a working machine. I can tell you a marine finish on a portafilter will blister from the heat. A GS3 group cap in wood will last about a week then crack from the heat and a catalysed urethane will take the heat but will not do much for warping.
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Postby mhoy on Tue Feb 22, 2011 3:37 am

Trust in what Dave says. Ignore my earlier thoughts. He knows what he is talking about. (He also supplied my lovely portafilter, tamper and steam/water handles).

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Postby flopshot1016 on Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:46 pm

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