No, There is a green light on the SSR that slowly blinks when it is energized and the machine is on. I will check the lights on the fuji

cafeIKE wrote:By Green Light you mean the LED on the SSR or the C1 / C2 LEDs on the PXR3?

As its heating the C1 light is on, the C2 light is off.

With DC A1+ disconnected and both Lines connected, does the LED on the SSR blink?

Does C1 start to blink as the CV approaches SV?

With DC A1+ disconnected and both Lines connected, does the LED on the SSR blink?

Does C1 start to blink as the CV approaches SV?

With the DC A1+ disconnected, The green light on the SSR is off and the C1 light on the Fuji does not blink as the current value reached the set value. The current value just passes the set value (195F). The boiler also doen't stop at the high value.

Disconnect both DC leads A1+ and A2- from the SSR.
Connect both A/C leads L1 & T1.

Check for any stray bits of wire.

If the boiler heats, looks like the SSR is bad.

Yup, It still heats, I will order a new ssr in the morning. Thank you so much for your help! If you ever find yourself in Harpers Ferry, the coffee is on me!

Having driven a thousand miles through that espresso wasteland last summer, I just may darken your door.

While you are waiting for the part, TREBLE check all the wiring and that all the PXR3 settings are at factory.

If you have a VOM, check both A/C & DC voltages across the DISCONNECTED A1 & A2 terminals with the L1 & T1 connected and the power on. There should be no reading. If there is a high A/C reading, the output of the Fuji could be toast.

To check the output of the Fuji, AFTER the params are reset to the factory, connect a DC voltmeter across PID pins 4&5. DO NOT CONNECT THE PID TO THE SSR. The voltage should be ~12vdc until the boiler get close to the SV, when it should start to pulse on and off, then completely off [< 0.5vdc]when the boiler passes the SV. If this does not occur, the PID could be toast as well.

Good luck!