There's a 15amp fuse that is labeled F2. When it blows the entire machine shuts down. It blew the other night, so I replaced it. Then it blew again tonight. And then again just minutes later. I can see the lug on the pc board is burned, so I know something is drawing too much current.

Does anyone know what I should be looking for here?

Thanks


I just pulled the board, and that fuse goes to the relay that runs F5,6,7. These go to the steam boiler and to the triac. I'm pretty sure.

My tech manual says to check the two varistors on the main board. But I would start by checking the two heaters. Unplug the machine, disconnect the two connectors to the steam boiler heater, and check it. Then do the same with the brew boiler. Don't forget to measure the resistance between the heater and the brass boiler plate.

- hv

I called Boyd, and they said to check connections first. And I can see the steam boiler connector was brittle and discolored from heat. I have forgotten my electronics, but would a loose connection cause over current?

I'll try your suggestion next. Thanks.

I see no mention of veristors in my manual. Can you help me out here? Any info would be appreciated.

After checking and tightening all connections, the machine does not run at all, and yet the fuse F2 is not blown. Now I'm into another situation that I don't understand.

I want to post this while checking the elements.

A loose or corroded electrical connection, particularly one carrying that much current, can get hot and draw more current. A bad heating element can cause the same thing.

But the advice further up is good -
1 - disconnect machine
2 - remove and tape leads to heating elements
3 - check for resistance through elements to be in spec.
4 - check for no continuity between heating element and element's metal flange.

A shorted or blown heating element is the most likely cause of blown fuses, but there are other causes.

The resident Reneka expert is DavidMLewis - try doing a search on his user name and send him a PM.

More than likely, one of your heating elements (in one of your boilers) has a short to ground.

Thanks for the replies you guys.

I just checked resistance of elements.

No shorts to ground.
Steam is 8.3 ohms
Coffee is 10.3 ohms
That seems reasonable to me. I don't have values in my manual. But 1300 Watts at 120 volts sounds like the right resistance. I get 1400 Watts using 10.3 ohms. Close enough.


Then I noticed discolored and hardened connectors on the main power switch. I ohmed it, and it appears to be problematic. I reinstalled it, and the machine took off running again.

So right now I'm a bit perplexed. But it appears to be something in the main power circuit. Maybe.

The saga continues, but at least I can have a belated Black Cat.

Also, now that I think of it, I could have been getting 120 through a bad main power switch, and then when drawing current it was failing. Argh.

Greg,

I would search for all questionable or discolored/corroded/oxidized contacts and remove the wires from them. A small, fine-bristle stainless steel brush and Scotchbrite pads or equivalent work well. When clean and shiny, apply some silicone dielectric grease and reinstall. Be sure all connections are tight. Any wires showing brittle or cracked insulation should be replaced.

Randy, that's the plan. I have to say this hasn't been my experience with connectors. To be so burnt from heat. After all, it's similar spade connectors to the heater I have that is twice the wattage. Nevertheless, this is the case. And it's time to dig in and fix it.

Having just completed a timing belt replacement in my 928, I can safely say the espresso machine is actually easier to work on. Here's a picture of that nightmare all completed.

Hi Gregg,

Good to hear the machine is working ok-ish now. Re. the heaters - the values seem about right. No problem there, fortunately.
Still, the problem isn't really solved yet, I'd go with Randy's advice for now, and see what you find.

BTW, PM me your email addie, and I'll send you the service manual - I think I've a later version (September 2004, includes info on the V2M).

- hv