Well, this is not a restoring job, as the machine is kind of new. This unit went to the certification lab, and I really don't know what they did. Boiler, group, valves etc are ok. But they burned (literally) the electronic components and the frame is not in good shape:











I've disassembled the machine (it's not so hard as many parts of the steam boiler don't need to be removed, the machine is kind of modular) and I have to fix the frame parts. There are a lot of good areas (is it zinc plated steel?), but I think a full coating should be done. But... Last powder coat I've done (Gaggia Tell frame) was not so great - the paint is not so resistant as I think it should be. I wonder if should I try:

• To zinc plate again, I don't know the cost;
• To powder coat and take extra care when I assemble the machine;
• To use a silver Hammerite I have here.

I used this Hammerite at the Elektra Semiauto base at some rusted points and I have to say the stuff is very good.

Nickel plate is a option too, but I think more expensive than a zinc plate.

The steam boiler is slightly magnetic. I wonder if it's some kind of stainless steel (I thought the magnetic ones were more prone to rust, hence I would imagine a SS boiler should be 304 or 316).

My plans are to rebuild the machine and make a new eletronic control board for it. I think it'll be a long way...

Sounds like they did destructive electrical/surge and mechanical testing on it, not uncommon for product safety certification. You should be able to look up the safety standards from the certifications listed on the product data sheet.

Well, I'm doing it for my friend who owns the company that's importing Dalla Corte here, so I don't have any reports from the tests. But I'll investigate. Anyway, as far as I know, as the (new) standard here is very similar to Europe, the contract was not including destructive tests Nevertheless, I think the machine is worth recovering considering its state.

BTW, he has good technicians over there but they were decided on using the machine as a spare part donor. So I suggested new electronic as most of the machine is new (but need to bring a new water tank and fix the frame).

Thanks, Chris.

Long time on this not so interesting project...

I decided to powder coat the frame. I can be careful when assembling it and I could always use something to protect any blemish. I've took a look at the NS Oscar I've restored almost 2 years ago, to fix a leak, and the frame is in order. The cost is low, around USD 35 (BRL 80). For sure some plating would cost at least three times.

The heat element originally seems to have black oxide coating. But, probably because some high charge at the ground (my bet of the biggest problem during the tests) the oxide was removed and it was all over the remaining water inside the boiler. As far as I know this kind of protection for copper is very resistant even at citric acid, but it couldn't resist a reverse galvanic process:





The darker parts are not the black oxide, but some other oxide formed after I cleaned it. Considering my bad experience with Velox (I'm getting a bad smell and I wonder if it's from the copper from probe and element), I'll try to nickel plate it. As I plan to make new electronics for the machine, another options would be replacing this element for a more powerful one.

Frame is powder coated!



I've cut a little square where the drip tray fits the 3-way collector. I plan to add to the base of the drip tray at that point a niple to be used like a drain.



And planning pump placement:



In fact this pump is small. The problem will be the 24VDC source, but maybe a notebook generic one (~90W) will be sufficient and it could fit below the water tank or where it was the control box. If not below the tank, I'll need to find a place for the Arduino...

Apologies for this off-topic question but what would be the easiest way to empty the boiler before shipping a DC Mini?

Thanks,
-Malte

Hi, Malte.

To empty the group boiler, you can use the screw placed behind the dispersion disc. But l think you'll have to remove the inlet pipe (just open it) so the water can flow.

To remove the water from the steam boiler I think you should remove one of the pipes, for instance, the steam one. The threaded connections are glued to the boiler, but this pipe system is very easy to deal with.

Remember the destination owner that the coffee boiler has no system for water level. I don't know the procedure to fill it as, if I remember it right, the control box don't let you turn on the pump before the coffee boiler is hot.

Hi.
I'm in planning to modify my DC mini (2007) with new Arduino controller and a few new measuring like brew pressure. i will keep the original look, the only thing that will be different is the 4 line display. I think I will put it under drip tray in a slider some way.

the display is for setpoint temp, Process temp, brew pressure, shot volume, shot timer.

So right now Im searching for all information regarding internal components.

such as:
flowmeter: is it 2 or 3 wire? how much is 1 pulse?

and ofcourse any ideas is very welcome

BR
Kasper.


Btw.
what kind of pump are you using? it looks nice!

Looks like a good machine to modify with full temperature and flow profiling.

Hi, Kasper!

I don't know much of the flowmeter... I should discover it too.

The pump is a MGFR from Fluid-o-Tech, you can find some stuff here searching for this model. I'm still deciding if I use it or not... The project is on hold for a while.

Márcio.