cyclones wrote:Mike,
I was wrong; it turns out there is another in the assembly that is part of the inlet valve. Right next to the pump. I had to take it out today because water was not flowing through it. Weird because it had been flowing OK before descaling. Well I took the entire assembly apart and found black gunk in there. I think it is some kind of sealer. It probably turned into this gunk in response to the citric acid. Well now that it is all apart, the citric acid is taking it off. I just expect it to take several hours; maybe overnight.
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Chris,

Thanks for the additional info. This is probably where my extra gicleur should go.

cyclones wrote:I was able able to find a cap for the boiler's milk frother outlet. It's now installed, so I don't have to put the milk frother and its valve back on at this point. It's good, because if I don't get this working soon, I'm going to lose my motivation! I am going out to get a couple of washers for screws that I'm replacing. A couple of valves back together and put the computer in, put the pump in, hook up a couple of wires, and it'll be ready to test. Here's how it's looking:
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Oh yes, almost forgot to say the heating element is back in with its new gasket. You can't see it in that picture.

Chris,

Looking good. Can't wait to hear about the test.

I'm having only partial success getting the gunk out of the gicleur and related assembly. Not sure what to do at this point. Need to call about a screen tomorrow as well. I think I can get the gunk out of the rest of the assembly, but the gicleur might not happen. I can scrape the inside of the other parts with a toothpick and it comes out with the black gunk on it. Guess maybe I should just order a new 481-361-000 and 491-173-006.

I'm looking at diagrams right now and I can't figure out if I even need this assembly and valve if I'm using the tank. Looking at diagrams R22-4 and R24-1, it appears the answer is no, and that this valve and assembly is for the incoming water from the water line. If that is truly, the case, I can start up the machine to test it after all, and worry about the gummed-up parts and screen next month when I start working on plumbing it up to the water lines in the house. Hopefully so!

I'm wondering what to do about the hot water tap. Still got crud in it. How can you get one of these apart? The diagrams say they come apart, but I don't have any tools in my arsenal that could get it apart without severely marking up the outside. Suggestions?

cyclones wrote: Guess maybe I should just order a new 481-361-000 and 491-173-006.

I'm looking at diagrams right now and I can't figure out if I even need this assembly and valve if I'm using the tank. Looking at diagrams R22-4 and R24-1, it appears the answer is no, and that this valve and assembly is for the incoming water from the water line. If that is truly, the case, I can start up the machine to test it after all, and worry about the gummed-up parts and screen next month when I start working on plumbing it up to the water lines in the house. Hopefully so!

Chris,

I agree and think that you should order new screens. I'm not sure what the 491-173-006 part is. Also, could you take a picture of the water tap part you are referring to? I disassembled just about everything on the M30 and used citric acid bath for most everything including most of the stainless pieces. So I'm thinking a citric soak for the tap would work. The slight coloration of the stainless buffs out easily (did for me on the steam wands and hot water exterior fitting).

Mike,
Thanks for the suggestion; I actually have been soaking the hot water tap (not sure if that's the correct term) in citric acid and it's done little to clean it up. I'm wondering if it has that black gunk -- thread sealer or whatever -- in it as well. The thing I'm talking about is shown in this video of a 2-group M31 -- between the two group head; it outputs hot water:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhJVRntZNis
The guy tests it at 28 seconds on the video, right after he tries both steam wands.

movnmik wrote:Chris,
I'm not sure what the 491-173-006 part is.

It is the piece that holds the screen if I'm reading the diagrams correctly. i can't even get the screen to come out of it at this point.

People who think "more is always better" really irritate me. It's obvious that someone worked on this machine who thought that and used tons of this thread sealer. Grrrr!!!!

Good news: I got the machine to a point tonight where I could test it. I put the pour-over tank in, hooked up the tank's water sensing mechanism, put in the control board, water in tank.
Bad news: Not much happened. When I turned it on, the board beeped. A few seconds later I heard a relay (I think one of the relays on the control board) click. I waited a minute but nothing happened.

One thing I have been thinking about.... this machine was plumbed in before. How does it know that I am using the tank and not a water line? There is a jumper J1 on the control board; could that be its function?

I got to thinking more about this... the guy from whom I purchased it said that "it fills but does not heat". I suspect that he had it hooked up to a water line, which as Cecil pointed out, could fill the boiler as long as the valves worked, and probably experienced what I am seeing now. According to him, it had just come out of storage, and was working before it was put into storage.

Get in there with the mechanic's stethoscope (or in this case a thin wooden dowel will work well, and it is not likely to get you shocked) and find out if a relay is clicking or one of the valves. If it is a valve figure out where it sits in the hydraulic system. That jumper is either a test jumper (not likely) or usually it is the programming lock out for the flow dosing system.

-Cecil