Hi All,
Been a while since I posted so I hope everyone is well. I was thinking yesterday if there are any diagrams or suggestions on how to hook up the drain of my Elektra T1 to the drain of the house. Currently I have a hose running from the drain outlet of the T1. Its then run to the inside of a larger washer hose which then is attached to a barb at my drain. All of the connections are above the Ptrap. It works OK but I have to say the flow is a little slow. Trouble is there is about 8' from my machine to the drain.

Is there a better mousetrap than what I have?

Thanks!
Joe

Does it go straight down to the drain? Any droop in the hose will fill up and drain out but slow down the flow. Is there a hose clamp where the two different hoses connect, and could it be pinching the smaller hose? Does anything else drain into this standpipe and is there a vent or way for air to get on top of the drain?
KDM

I second the foregoing, especially the mention of venting. When I used to run my drain hose into a bucket, I found that even submerging the end of the hose in the waste liquid could cause the drip tray collector to overflow during a prolonged boiler flush. Simply raising the hose end to create an air gap stopped that. Now my drain hose (0.8"OD) goes into a rigid PVC (1.5"ID) standpipe, again with an air gap and a loose (=vented) fit between the two tubes. The volume of the standpipe, combined with the throughput of the trap, must be adequate to handle any reasonable surge.

I have seen the air gap in restaurants and coffee shops handled with a drain basin sunk into the floor that looks like a 8" x 8" x 6" deep "bathtub" with the drain pipe about three inches above floor level pointing down into the floor basin.

Hmm, not sure on the plumbing fundamentals but the hose essentially runs out of the machine and into the drain. The hose does undulate a bit so that may be contributing to the slow drain.

I'm wondering if I should replace the majority of the hose with PVC. Just have the armor hose come out of the machine into the PVC then into the drain. Maybe that will be better.........

cruzmisl wrote:I'm wondering if I should replace the majority of the hose with PVC.

That's what I would do. If the pipe diameter is too small, the water will not flow readily because a vacuum will form (think of pouring out a jug of water; if there isn't sufficient air flow to fill the void left by the exiting fluid, it will drain slowly "glug glug glug").

With the caveat that I'm not a plumber, I believe minimum drain pipe size for a bar sink would be 1-1/2" and it would need a reasonable slope to drain properly. Searching "plumbing drain slope codes" located various sources indicating the minimum slope is 1/4" per foot and maximum 3".

All of the connections are above the Ptrap.

What P-trap? Do you mean the trap for the sink? Pics are worth a couple of hundred words.

If you simply flushed this machine with an empty portafilter, the flow is in the order of 500-600 ml/minute - maybe a little above 600 with an Elektra. That should easily flow out of the machine's drip tray - but you know that.

Yes, there exists installation diagrams for machines ( LM, Synesso) but not to the detail you require.

Did you say "armor" hose?

cruzmisl wrote:I'm wondering if I should replace the majority of the hose with PVC. Just have the armor hose

. Could you be using the wrong type of drain hose? An amored hose for supply would have too small a lumen for drain work.
KDM

Ok, here are some pics.

Here you can see the top hose is the drain hose. I call it armored because it has some spiral wire in it but it isn't the braided supply hose.



This is where it ties into the drain,



And here you can see the span I'm dealing with from the machine to the sink,



Whatever the perfect solution is it needs to be small in order to fit behind all the cabinets, oven etc.

Thanks!

Your first picture shows the dip I suspected. Try to arrange the hose to get rid of that, it should at least help a bit.
KDM