Newbie here, just want to share my experience.
I had owned the pro 300 for 10 days, based on positive reviews on this page. Unfortunately, I got a lemon unit. It has leaks from steam boiler anti pressure valve to the drip tray. Dealer advised to reduce pressure to 1.1 bar, same problem, but the steam was very weak. While adjusting the steam boiler pressure, I uncovered another issue, the brew boiler leaks while powering up, thru the heating electrode. This is bad, it can cause electric shock.
The machine went back.
Brewing wise, it was a fine machine, if you are experienced. Here are my observations: Need to wait between shots to get brewing temperature stabilized. And the brew group is not an E61, so the heat transfer from brew boiler to the ring, though direct, it does not have enough thermal mass as in E61 group head to maintain the heat. I noticed after 25s shot, the PID display drops about 5-6 degrees from the set temp of 200F, and it will take another 3-5 minutes to recover. My unit was 15A, 1600W. For those of you who have the 20A version, it could be faster. Initial ramp up was fast, about 3 mins to get to 190F (with steam boiler off), but it will take another 10 - 12 mins to stabilize at 200 F. Dealer said this is perfectly normal. This is fine, given the portafilter also needs time to warm up.
Noted that the PID, though useful, but only controls the temperature at the boiler, but not at the group head, so some waiting in between shots is unavoidable.

At this price point and being a DB, Profitec had to cut corners somewhere. The overall design is neat and compact.
This machine can be ideal for small volume production, but you need to be patient. I did not mind the wait, but initial quality really scared me. Hope you all have better luck than I was.

My Pro300 comes with a 4-hole steam tip, while the steam boiler is 0.75L.
Heard about some advice that such a small steam boiler cannot be good to drive a 4-hole tip. Steam release too fast and the pressure will drop too fast.
My experience is once turn on the steam valve, the pressure drops below 1.0 bar in a couple of seconds.
I'm looking for a 2-hole tip or 1-hole tip anyway.

The two hole tip from Chris Coffee fits well and works for me: https://www.chriscoffee.com/No-Burn-2-H ... 0980sv.htm

The guys at Clive I spoke with said the 300 is killing it on 20A power....for what it's worth. I think the 300 has a lot going for it and I applaud the German's for stepping into this class. The issue I have with it are its looks; it's very industrial feeling and lacks soul.

"The guys at Clive I spoke with said the 300 is killing it on 20A power....for what it's worth. I think the 300 has a lot going for it and I applaud the German's for stepping into this class. The issue I have with it are its looks; it's very industrial feeling and lacks soul."
Yes, Clive is now out of stock for the 300 20A version, noted that the price dropped to be on par with the 15A version offered at the other seller in upstate NY. I would pick the 20A for the same price any day, assuning that the 20A circuit/outlet is available from your kitchen wiring.
At the time was looking into the 20A 300, it was $150 more, even more expensive than the 500.

Happy brewing

How many grams you guys would use for a double filter on the Pro300?
I use 18g with a bottomless portafilter and it spouts around the edges.

Without a Scace I would not get hung up on PID display values. I made that mistake when I got my M58. Without measuring with a scace, you really don't have any actual brew temp data to draw a conclusion from.

jayyau wrote:How many grams you guys would use for a double filter on the Pro300?
I use 18g with a bottomless portafilter and it spouts around the edges.

I often use between 17.5 and 19 grams, although I use a 21 gram VST (I like headspace). After I got my 58.4mm tamper the donut extractions pretty much went away.

May I know your VST basket is the type Standard Ridged or Ridgeless?

20 gram ridgeless