gor wrote:Thanks for the reply.
gor wrote:You're right when you say that the bearing is critical ...
Indeed. I'd say that for anything that turns at that speed and on bearings.
gor wrote: It is also a very cheap part and easily obtained.
... might be possile to replace the cheap one used with a higher quality one that might last a little longer than the original.
Yes, I have seen that to be possible.
Some bearing manufacturer catalogs are quite populated: for the same size shaft and bearing well you have many different models and qualities.
But bearing removal is a tricky and delicate biz.
For many bearing assemblies, it's just a matter of patience, a vise, a block of wood and a wooden mallet but for others (been there, done that) there are special tools without which the end result is most probably a damaged shaft and/or bearing housing that has been rendered useless during the extraction process.
I take it that the parts labelled 'front' and 'rear' bearings are not regular 'roller bearings'?
gor wrote:The vanes are held in place with a set of pins, and not springs.
Quite so, my bad.
Sorry for that.
gor wrote:... wear on the vanes would not be an issue.
I'm not too sure about that.
My idea is that when they wear past a certain limit, the pump won't work or have enough pressure.
What I recall having read somewhere is that factory rebuild (usually?) implies new vanes, liner, seals and bearings.
gor wrote:The only issue I can see is calcium build up ...
I think that calcium deposits and bearing wear are the two main problems with these pumps.
gor wrote:If you could decalcify at an early stage in a pumps life ...
I guess that like with any other artifact subject to water calcification, yes.
gor wrote: .. insanely strong acid solution (hydrochloric/ or muriatic as you guys call it?).
Yes. Muriatic is the street name it goes by here.
The problem these days is that it is used (just like acetone and other similar chemicals) by the usual suspects to make powder that some people like to snort, so it hard to impossible to get it full strength here in AR.
Beware the fumes the full strength stuff gives off as even metal parts in close vicinity can be affected by them, not to mention your OEM breathing equipment. (again, been there and done that).
gor wrote:The liner survived!!
... possible to dunk the whole brass housing (complete with rear plate and liner ...
I guess that would be possible.
gor wrote:... liner is hard to remove wthout the right tools, so one less step ...
One less step but more than anything
, a part with no available spare that won't get damaged in the process. =-)
gor wrote:... a totally seized pump on hand, shaft doesn't rotate, bearing rusted out, solid calcium deposits ...
Will let you know about the results.
I have an Italian made pump from a factory that went south years ago (Vibropompe) which I am not using but it is quite old and has had it's share of usage. It's almost identical to a Procon and probably needs an overhaul.
gor wrote:... cost to actually do it is minimal compared to US$180 for a new one ...
I'd say you have to compare it to the cost of a factory overhaul + SH to and from.
And add to the equation the warranty you'll probably get on parts and labour from the factory.
But, like you, I enjoy the challenge and have never liked the idea of 'it can't be done' just because no one else has. The 'mechanical DIY geek' factor is important to people like us two, but bear in mind that not everyone has the time, tools, manual ability and most important, curiosity
, to undertake this type of thing.
Thank you for posting the data and the photos.
Please keep us posted on the results, I am most interested.