What is the procedure for setting up and testing a commercial espresso machine? The machine that I am playing with is an older CMA single group with an external Procon pump. I have briefly tried filling it and there were many leaks going on, especially from the Procon. Water shot straight up from the top of the machine, so I bet that the bleed valve on the top of the boiler was open.

There are many experienced technical gurus out there and I appreciate reading the great posts. Maybe a sticky on machine set up would be a valuable addition.

Ciao

xtophr wrote:Water shot straight up from the top of the machine, so I bet that the bleed valve on the top of the boiler was open.

Unless the machine is manual fill, water should not shoot out the vacuum breaker or safety relief valve at the top of the boiler. You may have other leaks or the autofill did not function properly and hence overfilled?

Well, the first thing I would do, maybe, is head to their website:

http://www.cmaspa.com/

I would try to buy an owner's manual AND installation manual for your specific machine.

What is the pedigree of your specific machine? Pictures (dressed and undressed)

Skol,

Eric S.

erics wrote:Well, the first thing I would do, maybe, is head to their website:

http://www.cmaspa.com/

I would try to buy an owner's manual AND installation manual for your specific machine.

What is the pedigree of your specific machine? Pictures (dressed and undressed)

Skol,

Eric S.

I have already contacted CMA as you suggested, and a gentleman by the name of Umberto Terreni, Managing Director of General Espresso Equipment Corp. in the US has sent me the manual. A comprehensive exploded parts diagram was also included. I haven't had much time to play much with it lately, and an unexpected (is there any other kind?) transmission failure has just set me back $2,100. Ouch! All of this when I am trying to get outfitted for a September ride from Alaska to Florida. So I may not tackle this machine until after I return from that ride.

I was wrestling with whether or not I wanted to post my trials and tribulations of rebuilding this machine on this forum or not, but since you asked... Besides, those are the postings that I enjoy the most, so why not?

First a little history on the machine. I received an email newsletter from a local small playhouse about the upcoming productions that they are having and there was mention of an espresso machine & grinder that they were selling. I promptly emailed back and came to look at it. It's an Astoria Argenta 1-group SAE with an Astoria grinder that I immediately recognized as a Mazzer Major. The machine was manufactured in 1993 according to it's build plate and was originally purchased and subsequently serviced by a reputable local distributor / roaster. Plus, the machine was 110 volts, so I was interested. I offered her $250 for them and she accepted. My friend, who I owe even more money than that to, objected. So I rescinded my offer but agreed to help her sell it.

I basically disassembled the grinder and cleaned all of the years of coffee oils and grinds out of it and tested its operation. Done. Then I turned to the machine and began by soaking the portafilters in Joe Glo overnight. Then I disassembled all of the panels and thoroughly cleaned them. I removed the driptray and cleaned it. I also removed the small catch tray that the driptray drips into for the drain and cleaned that. The short tube that comes down from the 3 way valve was removed and soaked in the Joe Glo, but it needs something more like CLR or LimeAway. I glanced around the internals without disturbing anything, but I did clean any major signs of rust on the frame that probably resulted from placing wet cups on the top tray. Besides, I wasn't really worried that it didn't work because it was simply removed from operation and stored for about a year and a half. I reassembled it, photographed it and listed it on craigslist.com for $1,200 as a machine & grinder combo. No bites. Then I reduced it to $1,000 or best offer. Two bites. One person wanted to trade it for a 2-group Faema because they "didn't need a 2-group machine". The other person ended up being my next-door neighbor from 20 years ago, so we made a deal for $500. He took it away and later that night I received a voice mail saying that nothing worked. The grinder didn't work, the machine didn't work, the Procon pump didn't work, no lights... nothing. I was disturbed by this, to say the least. But it was plausible since I never actually tested the machine. But I did test the grinder, so I was suspicious. He got his money back and I took the machine, et al back to the warehouse where I work.

I began with the grinder. There were beans in the top level with the adjustment collar, so I dumped them out, plugged it in and found the 0 point. I backed it off 3 and ground the beans. Worked fine. Plus, there were ground beans in the output chute, so I knew that it worked for him, too. Hmmm. I found a 20 amp outlet and plugged in the machine. I switched it on and there was the indicator light, glowing in all of its glory. I heard a faint electrical hum inside and switched it off, not wanting to burn out any un-quenched boiler coils. Hmmm.

I guess that the guy just didn't want it. I can understand buyer's remorse, but jeez! Weird! Anyhow, that's how I ended up with it. So now I want to cut my teeth on trying a rebuild project.

Later I went to Lowe's and got some plumbing hoses so that I could hook it up to a spigot. There are already a filter and a softener inline, so I am continuing to use them during testing. I also changed the plug to a 20 amp version because there was a normal 15 amp one on it. It was probably okay in its former location because they must have had 20 amp service, but the wiring was shoddy inside the plug. The holes in the 15 amp plug did not support the wire gauge and consequently some of the wire strands were not inserted and clamped. Yikes! My new 20 amp plug is a-ok in that respect.

Here are some of the dressed pictures that I already have of it. Undressed to come soon.

Ciao

This particular site has an installation document for LaCimbali machines available in their downloads section:

http://new.americanspecialtycoffee.com/index.htm

A problem, as I see it, is that these types of documents are all geared towards a new machine whether it be brand A, B, or C. Maybe some of the info will be helpful to you later on.

One of the first things I would do is get a new spiral notebook and keep a running log of the machine's rejuvenation. This way, all the info you need and/or accumulate is in one place.

Take plenty of pictures before you disassemble anything or draw diagrams in the notebook.

I think you took a good first step in fixing what could have been a safety issue with the electrical plug and now tis time to attack the leaks. While you're fixing leaks, I would disconnect the heating element at the boiler and tape over the connections. There's no sense in having really hot water burn you when the alternative is to simply get a little wet.

From your initial description, and as Jeff said, it seems as though the water level probe is not doing its job which is to close the boiler fill solenoid and stop the pump. So the first step is to fix that situation. Unplug machine and then:

a. drain or syphon off the water in the boiler.
b. check the continuity of the wire from the level probe to the machine's control unit.

If OK, then

c. temporarily ground the connection to the water level probe at a known good ground.
d. turn machine on - pump should not run and you should hear no other sounds.

If pump runs and/or you hear fill solenoid open, shut machine down. This is not a good sign.

Let us know how this test worked out.

Skol,

Eric S.

erics wrote:This particular site has an installation document for LaCimbali machines available in their downloads section:

http://new.americanspecialtycoffee.com/index.htm

Thanks, Eric. That's just the kind of document that I was looking for. I have emailed CMA and requested their installation manual as well, so we'll see on that.

erics wrote:From your initial description, and as Jeff said, it seems as though the water level probe is not doing its job which is to close the boiler fill solenoid and stop the pump. So the first step is to fix that situation.

I really don't know if the machine is a manual fill or automatic. There is a manual valve on the bottom right side of the drip tray. When I first connected the water, I did not have the power switched on, so I used the valve to allow water flow. I also did not have any of the covers removed, so I could not see what was going on. When water shot out of the top, I stopped using the manual valve and no more water shooting out. That was when I switched it on. I could not see the sight glass because I was in tight quarters and the machine was on the floor. I tried the dosing buttons, and apparrently only one was programmed. But the Procon came on, confirming my connection was correct. Water came around the gasket in the grouphead, so it's shot. The large switch to the left of the dosing panel also controls the Procon. At this point, I knew I was in for some work, so I disconnected without draining and wheeled it back to the storage spot. Since I'm doing this at work, I don't really have a bench to keep it on during progress. So I really have to button up between sessions.

The notebook and pictures is not only a very good idea, it's essential. The thought of trying to remember where things go is like a nightmare. The book will help immensely to that end.

I'll review the manual, look inside, take pictures and try your suggested test.

Well, if the machine has a manual fill valve and, from your description of the events, it appears to be a true manual valve, it likely does not have a level probe but that should be pretty easy to discern. Typical operation should be with the sight glass half-full or whatever the operators manual says.

It might have a level probe that acts as a safety shut-off for the heating element but not to control the boiler water level. So, scratch the tests, they are useless for this machine.

I hope Umberto is sending you an electrical wiring diagram. The nearest "factory" parts outlet appears to be Espresso Parts Northwest:

http://www.espressoparts.com/

They are probably the closest distributor for these machines to you.

Skol,

Eric S.

That's what I was figuring. I did not go in today to look at the machine, but I have the manual nearby to peruse at my leisure. It's after 4:00pm now, and I haven't really done much today, so there's always later this week. That's when I'll post internal pics.

Thanks for the great suggestions!

Okay, here are the naked pictures as promised:


Top of the boiler:



Manual fill valve:



All sides:




Sirai pressurestat?:


Solenoid valve?:

Well, obviously from the pics, the machine has a level sensor. It will be interesting, I suppose, to learn its exact roll, i.e. is it solely a safety device?

The vacuum breaker valve looks a little tired and the Sirai pressurestat housing was a nice rest spot for someone's palm. Other than that, it could be a fun project. One of the things that comes to mind (not the least because of your location) is the possibility of a cracked heat exchanger due to freezing. Dave Stephens (Cannonfodder) experienced this in his Faema restoration project:

http://www.home-barista.com/forum...ht=faema%20rebuild

Pressurize the hx by pulling a blank shot and, with the vacuum valve removed, hope that the water level in the boiler does not continue to rise.

I would think seriously about installing a boiler and/or hx drain system to make things easier during the restore process.

Skol,

Eric S.