This overly long post is in reference to the comments having to do with temperature management of heat exchanger espresso machines that have worked their way into this thread. If you are only interested in the K10 WBC grinder, per se, you can stop reading this post at the end of this sentence!
As some here know, from my prior interminable posts, I have PID'd two different Cimbali Juniors of different vintages and I use the PIDs to maintain the boiler temperatures at relatively low boiler temps. With this approach, and using a low volume flush (~50ml) I have been able to achieve very reliable and repeatable shot temperature profiles on my machines by varying the boiler temperatures by a few degrees. Realizing that my shot curves are not flat (due to the Cimbali design, which for all I know is intentional, with no evidence existing that "flat" is "better") I've been able to control the obtained shot temperatures well within a range of about 198F to 203F,
during the 9 months of the year when the interior temperature of my kitchen is a constant 70 degrees F.Living in the mountains in an area with few hot days, few people here have air conditioning and my house is no exception. As a result, I rely on "natural air conditioning," e.g. opening the windows overnight to cool the house down (as cold as possible during the hottest days), with the windows then being closed early in the morning. This results in my kitchen having a rather low temperature in the morning (as low as 60F) which then steadily rises perhaps as high as 80 or rarely 84F late in the afternoon. As a result, my espresso machine(s) are exposed to a wide temperature variation during the time I use them, which at its extremes can be up to 24 degrees F. The other 9 months of the year are of no concern as the indoor temperature remains around 70F due to both a furnace and solar radiation.
My own testing has shown that during the periods where the temperatures vary the most, I've been unable to attain consistent shot temperatures with my "usual" approach. In the hope of improving the temperature stability of my machines, I purchased one of Eric's adapters for each machine, and with a little effort installed them and have used a digital thermometer to read the "T-type" probes installed. My hypothesis was that by using Eric's adapter that I could obtain an additional "data point" that would improve my shot temperature stability under arguably very difficult conditions.
During the summer I datalogged many hundreds of Scace shots on the two machines, using both channels of an Omega datalogger. I was monitoring both the real time temperatures on the GH adapter PLUS the Scace device temperatures, and they could be compared at each second of each shot to show how each varied. This included the time before starting to make the shot (e.g. "static GH temperature"), during the flush, and during the following shot. I tried most every possible variation numerous times, such things as flushing to a temperature, waiting for the GH adapter to go back up to a given temperature, standard flush volumes, etc. etc. etc. I still have some data that I have not yet plotted out since it became very tedious and unrewarding after awhile, and I had a lot of other things to do
I tried any number of possible approaches, both with my standard approach as a baseline augmented with knowledge of the baseline (pre-shot) temps on the Grouphead Adapter (hereinafter referred to at the "GH adapter"), to flushing to a specific temperature then starting the simulated shot, to many others. These other approaches included pushing the boiler temperature up much higher than I usually do and flushing to a specific temp, to the best of my ability realizing that I live at almost 6000 feet and flushing to a specific temperature with all the resultant "flashing" of boiling off the grouphead is extremely unpleasant when one lives somewhere that the boiling point is around 201.5F (~94C). I took the boiler temperature as high as 242F, which equals about 0.9 bar on the front panel gauge on my machines. Higher than that just creates so much flashing and superheated water spray that it is intolerable at altitude.
As I stated earlier, I have already found a solution to shot temperature management with my equipment, which works very well under "steady state conditions" of ambient temperature. In a steady state ambient temperature environment, it is possible that the GH adapter would enable me to do a little bit of fine tuning, e.g. to reduce the number of occasional "outlier" shots that don't come out as expected. I have not studied that yet. As to the use of the GH adapter to help with shot temperatures under varying ambient temperatures, I've found that it doesn't really help.
The explanation for this, I think, is pretty obvious. Both the boiler temperature and the GH temperature (
not GH adapter temperature) will be primary determining factors in the ultimate shot temperature obtained in an HX machine. The GH adapter measures the temperature deep inside the GH itself, by design near the intersection of the water channel with the stream coming into the GH to make the shot. The GH adapter
does not really measure the overall temperature of the large mass of the GH itself where the water shower "rains down" onto the puck in the PF. This is especially true of a situation like the one I was trying to deal with, where the exposed GH itself is exposed to highly variable temperatures in the surrounding air, that the deep channel of the adapter is not seeing (or only "seeing" part of) and hence can't measure. And, once you start running the water in from the HX to make the actual shot, you are most assuredly NOT measuring the temperature of the GH which is exposed to the ambient room temperature which will nonetheless definitely be impacted by the room temperature.
For those few who have read this post down to this point, what is the point that I am trying to make? My point is that IF your inside ambient temperature where the espresso machine is located, varies by more than a few degrees over the course of the year, you may need to check to see if what you measured at one ambient room temperature is what you will get in the cup at varying room temperatures.
My guess is that you will find that you are not getting the temperature stability you (may) have assumed you are getting if external factors such as temperatures change. It is human nature to want to believe that you can calibrate your machine(s) once and then forget about it later, since you already have done the work and of course you did a good job of it

I wish that that were the case!
For those of you who "enjoy" constant indoor ambient conditions year round, you will have one less thing to worry about, however there are other things that might get in the way of your (presumed) constant steady-state temperature management (such as, maybe, variations in the temperature of your input water) so things are probably never going to look as "easy" or as "perfect" if you come back at a later point and do a retest. It never ceases to amaze me how the sorts of measurements we take in espresso making, that we assume will remain constant, seldom do.
ken