Polishing stainless steel panels - Page 3

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phillip canuck
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#21: Post by phillip canuck »

Is this what you're thinking of:

1 1/2 HP Baldor Motor
1725 RPM, 115v/230v, reversible, overload protected. 3/4" shaft. Runs great. $100 cash.



Whenever I look at the surface area of the buffing wheels for something like the Baldor, and then look at the surface area of my Elektra SS panels, I can't help but think there must be a better way. Are handheld pneumatic and electric buffers not worth the time of day for SS?

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cannonfodder
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#22: Post by cannonfodder »

That is a good price. The double wheel versions are around $1200 new. You just need a place to bolt it down. You can check to see how thick the threaded section of the shaft is. For large pieces, you can stack wheels on the arbour. If you are using soft cotton wheels for the final polish the wheel will flair out. The hard sown sisal wheels that you would use with an abrasive compound do not do that but you can stack two wheels for more buffing surface, if the arbour will take two. Also keep in mind, wheels are a one compound item. If you use 1200 grit compound on a wheel, it can not be used with any other compound. I use 8 different compounds so I have 8 different wheels and a couple different diameters of a few of them. Like I said, you may end up spending more on wheels and compound than the you do the actual buffer. There are also two different sized arbours, 1/2 and 5/8 inch so you need to get the correct sized wheel for the shaft on the buffer.

You also need eye protection and at least a dust mask, I use a sealed respirator. You do not want to be breathing 0.5 micron chromium oxide. This stuff will turn your lungs into putty. Also remember that it takes practice. Buffing is not overly difficult but it is also easy to ruin something. You can burn the steel if you dwell in one spot too long. Also keep in mind, that buffer motor does not care if it a piece of steel or hunk of flesh. They will break fingers and rip off flesh so caution is advised. I have burnt the skin off of a knuckle or two when my concentration lapsed. You think a rug burn hurts, try abrasive compound on a hard felt wheel spinning at 2600 RPM. About the time you think oops there is no skin left.
Dave Stephens

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mhoy
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#23: Post by mhoy »

Dave really knows his stuff on how to polish. You have to consider if it's worth your time to make it perfect (and that any mistake along the way could put you back at square one).

Leaving it at the light scratches will look pretty good.
Elektra T1 - Front panel

The back panel on the T1 gets really heavy after a while holding it to a buffing wheel.
Back panel

Mind you, if I was to do this over again, I wish I would have picked up a larger bench grinder (turned into a polisher) like you are considering.

Mark

phillip canuck
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#24: Post by phillip canuck »

cannonfodder wrote:That is a good price. The double wheel versions are around $1200 new. You just need a place to bolt it down. You can check to see how thick the threaded section of the shaft is. For large pieces, you can stack wheels on the arbour. If you are using soft cotton wheels for the final polish the wheel will flair out. The hard sown sisal wheels that you would use with an abrasive compound do not do that but you can stack two wheels for more buffing surface, if the arbour will take two. Also keep in mind, wheels are a one compound item. If you use 1200 grit compound on a wheel, it can not be used with any other compound. I use 8 different compounds so I have 8 different wheels and a couple different diameters of a few of them. Like I said, you may end up spending more on wheels and compound than the you do the actual buffer. There are also two different sized arbours, 1/2 and 5/8 inch so you need to get the correct sized wheel for the shaft on the buffer.

You also need eye protection and at least a dust mask, I use a sealed respirator. You do not want to be breathing 0.5 micron chromium oxide. This stuff will turn your lungs into putty. Also remember that it takes practice. Buffing is not overly difficult but it is also easy to ruin something. You can burn the steel if you dwell in one spot too long. Also keep in mind, that buffer motor does not care if it a piece of steel or hunk of flesh. They will break fingers and rip off flesh so caution is advised. I have burnt the skin off of a knuckle or two when my concentration lapsed. You think a rug burn hurts, try abrasive compound on a hard felt wheel spinning at 2600 RPM. About the time you think oops there is no skin left.
Dave, thank you very much for this, in particular, detailed response; I've been looking for a response just like this to know what I'd be getting into. The sealed respirator and chromium oxide and enough to scare me away, for now. I've had quite a bit of experience with two-part epoxy paints as used on sailboats, and I know what that nasty stuff can do. However, the real killer is that I don't have the space for dealing with noxious fumes and particulates that could very well end up in my son's lungs; I just don't have a safe space for it.

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cannonfodder
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#25: Post by cannonfodder »

It is not the fumes, but the particulate. The super fine abrasive dust that you will inhale is the problem. Once the dust settles you can just vacuum it up, but then you also have to have a dust collector with a 0.3 micron filter. I have a wood shop so I already have a lot of this stuff. Like I said, it is not particularly difficult to do but it does take time to learn. With some practice you can put a flawless mirror finish on a block of high carbon steel.
Dave Stephens

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