Polishing stainless steel panels - Page 2

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phillip canuck
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#11: Post by phillip canuck »

Rather than start a new thread, I'm hoping to add to this one. I've seen a number of threads about cleaning and polishing stainless steel, but not about the tools used. I'm looking at bringing back my Elektra T1 to a mirror finish, but I don't know what tools to buy, or even if the benefit gained from machinery is cost-beneficial to elbow grease. I've searched out the a Craftsman orbital buffer, but that's about it. I've never had a need for a orbital buffer, or a bench wheel. I do have a deWalt orbital sander - can that be retrofitted??

And.. Dave S,
Great way to turn that negative nick, above, into a positive (straight razor user)! Clever.

-phillip

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cannonfodder
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#12: Post by cannonfodder »

If it is not scratched up, just dulled over time try some MAAS and a bit of elbow geese. That should polish it back up. When I moved into my new home I took the case off the machine and hit it with some white rouge to buff it up but I have all the equipment. MAAS would have worked just as good. When I restore razors they get several compounds but finish with MAAS. Now if you have scratches that need removed, it is an entirely different process.
Dave Stephens

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Rostik_KIEV
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#13: Post by Rostik_KIEV »

phillip canuck wrote: but I don't know what tools to buy,
http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... d_Bar.html

phillip canuck
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#14: Post by phillip canuck »

Thanks for the replies. There are scratches, most likely from a too abrasive cleaner or scrub pad, and there is also some white paint that I had forgotten about (been a while since I looked at the panel). With that said, looks like an orbital buffer for me - recommendations?

-phillip

edit: how about this: 7" Craftsman orbital buffer? (there is also a 10" version)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ockType=G3

3800 random orbits per minute matched to precision-tuned counterweight system simulates handpolishing motion for a swirl-free shine. Counterweight system reduces vibration.

* Permanent magnet motor provides power for quality waxing, buffing, polishing
* 7 in. diameter foam pad follows surface contours for a better finish
* Contains terrycloth bonnet and wax applicator bonnet

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Chert
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#15: Post by Chert »

Can the compounds be used with a clean cloth and elbow grease for a person with no orbital sander or bench wheel? If so which is better circular motion like waxing a car or back and forth?

Thanks for any input.
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cannonfodder
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#16: Post by cannonfodder »

Depends on the compound. If you get into something like a car buffing or polishing compound yes you could. However, you may end up with a lot of uneven scratch patterns for the variation on pressure you will use when rubbing by hand. You would have a bigger mess then you did when you started. If you are using a greased based compound like the bar form rouge's then no. The compound needs a fast moving wheel to heat and melt the matrix that the compound is in. I suppose you could grade it or scrape off shavings with a knife then hand rub with that but again, not really optimal. Personally, I would start with a simple polish like Mothers or MAAS and hand polish it. Then decide if you want to put a weeks worth of work and cash into getting a low speed buffer and machine polishing it.
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Chert
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#17: Post by Chert »

Thanks for the input cannonfodder, I think those comments sound spot on. "How badly do I want that mirror effect? (which I've seen to great effect on the Slayer) is the question.
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PictureThyme
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#18: Post by PictureThyme »

I had the same questions/issues with polishing my Linea. After buying the grinder, wheels, polishing compounds and polishing most of the brass and copper parts, I decided the work of polishing stainless steel was best left to experts. In the end, I had the skeleton and supporting body parts polished to a mirror finish by a local shop in Salt Lake. The remainder of the exterior panels will wait until I have extra money. I can put the machine back together with the pieces I have had polished. On the flip side, those who've chosen to hand polish their machine's panels themselves have no regrets after completing the work. To each his own.

phillip canuck
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#19: Post by phillip canuck »

cannonfodder wrote:Depends on the compound. If you get into something like a car buffing or polishing compound yes you could. However, you may end up with a lot of uneven scratch patterns for the variation on pressure you will use when rubbing by hand. You would have a bigger mess then you did when you started. If you are using a greased based compound like the bar form rouge's then no. The compound needs a fast moving wheel to heat and melt the matrix that the compound is in. I suppose you could grade it or scrape off shavings with a knife then hand rub with that but again, not really optimal. Personally, I would start with a simple polish like Mothers or MAAS and hand polish it. Then decide if you want to put a weeks worth of work and cash into getting a low speed buffer and machine polishing it.
I tried a Ryobi orbital car buffer with Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish - great shine, but did nothing for the tiny scratches. As long as one doesn't take a close look, it seems great, but I want a mirror. I've got a lot of SS on this Elektra, and on my Rancilio, so I want to learn how to do this properly. What kind of low speed buffer do you recommend?

Thank you,
phillip

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cannonfodder
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#20: Post by cannonfodder »

If you are going to do a lot of buffing, it is hard to beat a Baldor buffer but they are over $1K. Any slow speed buffer (1800 ish RPM) would work. The big thing is making sure you have enough clearance between the wheel and motor to work. You can get them at harbor freight relatively inexpensive. You may end up spending more on the wheels and compound than you do the buffer. Ebay is good place to look as well. I have a big commercial Foley knife grinder.
Dave Stephens