Plumb-in questions... Expobar Brewtus IV-R

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markk100
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#1: Post by markk100 »

Good afternoon all,

After spending the better part of yesterday evening and early this morning reviewing the 'Plumb-in' posts here on the site, I never was able to quite able to suss out what it is I was looking for, so I apologize if I missed the answers:

I'll be getting a Brewtus IV-R in the coming days and I had planned to un-box, and test the machine for a couple of days by dropping the water line in a gallon of water, prior to committing to the plumbing work I will eventually do in the very near future thereafter. Presuming you all think that's a prudent move, my questions are as follows:

1. Considering I'll be tapping into the cold water source (probably via a splitter of sorts, think max adapter), do I need a pressure regulator gauge? I have read an awful lot about about folks concerned about 'not enough pressure', and I understand that rotary pumps do fine under no pressure, but I'm wondering if typical residential set pressure is too much for the Brewtus IV? I seem to recall reading or hearing someone say that you can plumb it with pressure from 5-65 psi, but I might be making that up. Thoughts?

2. Considering my boiler will be full, prior to plumbing in my machine (from having been tested with water out of a jug), I'm wondering how I will know if it's actually working, i.e. getting water to the boiler? Do I need to empty the boiler after my test phase, and prior to plumbing to be able to test it? That seems like a hassle, but I'd surely do it to be certain my plumbing work is sound. Thoughts?

As always I appreciate the feedback and opinions.

Cheers,

Mark

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Compass Coffee
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#2: Post by Compass Coffee »

Yes you should always install an inline water pressure regulator with gauge. I use this one from Graingers.
Mike McGinness

markk100 (original poster)
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#3: Post by markk100 (original poster) »

Thank you Mike...I appreciate the input.

Cheers,

Mark

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HB
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#4: Post by HB »

To elaborate on Mike's answer...
markk100 wrote:I seem to recall reading or hearing someone say that you can plumb it with pressure from 5-65 psi, but I might be making that up. Thoughts?
Rotary pumps with a bypass valve increase incoming pressure. Obviously, the inlet pressure must be below the desired brew pressure. It's prudent to reduce the water pressure at the inlet to the espresso machine so the incoming pressure is consistent, i.e., if the mains pressure is 55 PSI, reducing it to 25 PSI at your espresso machine assures inlet pressure won't drop precipitously when water flows (or someone turns on a faucet, flushes a toilet, etc.).
Dan Kehn

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Compass Coffee
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#5: Post by Compass Coffee »

Using a pressure regulator is for more than controlling consistent brew pressure. And actually a pressure regulator won't completely mitigate brief drastic inlet pressure drops caused by flushing toilets etc., requires combining with accumulator.

Espresso machines have check valves that stop water flowing in at rest. Too high of inlet pressure and water can slowly seep past an inlet check valve over filling steam boiler to completely full triggering internal flooding...
Mike McGinness

markk100 (original poster)
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#6: Post by markk100 (original poster) »

Hello Dan,

That makes sense. I was operating under the impression that the pressure would be regulated from the pump upstream to the boiler (via some solenoid valve or something), apparently I'm wrong! :? That's been known to happen from time to time though...

Thanks for the note,

Mark

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HB
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#7: Post by HB »

Compass Coffee wrote:Espresso machines have check valves that stop water flowing in at rest. Too high of inlet pressure and water can slowly seep past an inlet check valve over filling steam boiler to completely full triggering internal flooding...
I've read that observation before, but I would be more concerned about household pressure high enough to force past the espresso machine's check valve. In our area, the water pressure at the street is > 100 PSI; a whole-house pressure regulator should reduce it to around 55 PSI. Presumably the lower water pressure reduces consumption and lowers the risk of bursting flexible connections to toilets, clothes washer, ice makers, etc. It should also reduce the risk of an espresso machine's solenoid valve being bypassed during a refill cycle.
Dan Kehn

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cannonfodder
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#8: Post by cannonfodder »

When you plumb it in, put a pressure regulator in as the last item in the chain before the machine. Any filters should go in before it. Put in a shutoff valve so you can kill the water supply for maintenance and vacation time. Tap off the supply line to sink if you are close but do not use a vampire tap. Cut the line and put in a T with a supply to feed the machine. Use a supply line adequate for the machine, something like a 3/8 OD supply line (1/4 ID). Do not try to use an ice maker hookup from the local hardware store (1/4 OD). While the machine does not require much flow, a rotary pump (if that is what you have) will cavitate if the supply line is not large enough and make all kinds of noise.

There are also 2 types of rotary pumps, balanced bypass and not. The straight pumps pressure will fluctuate with supply line pressure making pulling consistent shots difficult, the pressure regulator flattens that out. A balanced bypass will take changes in inlet pressure and keep a steady output pressure. Also, most machines have a max input pressure, my Elektra is 2-4 bars.
Dave Stephens

markk100 (original poster)
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#9: Post by markk100 (original poster) »

Super, thanks Dave!

I was going to venture out over the next couple days and start to put together my plumbing supplies needed. I hope to get it plumbed in over the next couple of weeks...

One of the things I was pondering was order of items placed, and you answered it, so thanks!

Happy Holidays,

Mark