The machine sounds like it needs a new switch, power cord and control box.

If there is any marking on the copper tube at the short point, that tube needs replacing.

If you are not qualified to QC the machine, suggest you SEND IT BACK FOR REPLACEMENT.

I think you are right, it at least needs a new switch. The boiler filled fine, and came up to temp, but the darn pump would not shut off, which makes me think that the switch is blown. Hopefully they will send a new switch with the mount. I might just have to send it back. This is a big factory QC fault--sending it out with a short. They must have not tested it at all before it left the factory.

re: pf handles. They are solid steel, but isolated with a bushing so that the handles get warm, but not hot. They are super heavy, but super nice. It came with both a single and a double portafilter.

And 1st-line has been great to work with so far...

John

That switch controls the brew pump. If it is fused in the closed position, the pump will run non stop. Or until it burns up. Disconnect the spades from the switch, make note of which one goes where, make sure they are not laying on anything metal, and turn on the power. If the pump does not run, your switch is bad. If it does not run, leave it turned on and make sure the boiler fills and it heats up. If so, all you need is a new switch.

cannonfodder wrote:That switch controls the brew pump. If it is fused in the closed position, the pump will run non stop. Or until it burns up. Disconnect the spades from the switch, make note of which one goes where, make sure they are not laying on anything metal, and turn on the power. If the pump does not run, your switch is bad. If it does not run, leave it turned on and make sure the boiler fills and it heats up. If so, all you need is a new switch.

It's unlikley the switch is fused in the closed position as the short was in the open position. It is possible that the switch is misconnected from the factory.

Regardless, for ~$1600 the machine should be flawless and not up to the user to troubleshoot. Either replace the machine or give a significant rebate, say 30%.

It seems that the switch was totally blown--they sent me a new one, and I installed it today. Now I'm up and running. Below are a couple of pics of the "surgery". Thanks to all who offered advice.

BTW, notice the photo of the sheet metal holes that didn't line up (misdrilled?). They simply put the non-functional bolts on with nuts attached to the other side. Serious QC problems here, but the machine is working splendidly (for now...)


The new microswitch.


All the guts hanging out.


Nice alignment of the holes in the sheet metal...NOT!


At least it is pulling decent shots (quite nice actually).

John

That looks exactly like the Millennium and Tea on the inside.

I wouldn't be surprised if the guts were identical.

I do like the unique steam/hot water joysticks.

The Elektra A3 uses the same valves. I really like them. You can ease on the steam when you doing a small amount, or open it up for a larger pitcher.

I had an Isomac for 3 years, it was a very dependable machine, never had an issue other than a blown thermal fuse.