The photo was a clue - Page 6

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phillip canuck (original poster)
Posts: 456
Joined: 15 years ago

#51: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

Wow. I didn't know it's been so long since I updated this thread. Not that there's been much to update. I have the time now to rebuild this T1 and my Z9, so both are being put back together.

The photo, below, that I took during the tearing down phase shows my record of how to put this particular piece back together. I don't know which male goes on which female, or even if it matters. I checked every schematic I could find, but no luck. I also tried to find out what it is - also no luck, but my guess is a capacitor.

-philip


jpboyt
Posts: 220
Joined: 14 years ago

#52: Post by jpboyt »

Motor run capacitor. Non-polarised. Should be marked in uF (microFarad). Hook it up either way. Good item to test as they get tired with age and make pump starting draw more than normal current. Capacitor and a secondary set of windings set rotation of motor. This is different than a motor start capacitor that disengages when the motor gets up to speed.
jpboyt

phillip canuck (original poster)
Posts: 456
Joined: 15 years ago

#53: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

This cable for programming doses detached. I would like to solder it together, but I don't know to which colour the wires connect. One is red, one is white, but which one attaches to which prong? Any help? I could take an educated guess based on how the wire is twisted, but I don't want to make things worse, especially with dosing control.

Thanks,
phillip




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mhoy
Posts: 1138
Joined: 16 years ago

#54: Post by mhoy »

Doesn't matter which way you wire it since it's just an on/off connection. The switch just enables the programming mode.

Mark

phillip canuck (original poster)
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#55: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

Fantastic, thanks Mark - time to solder.

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mhoy
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Joined: 16 years ago

#56: Post by mhoy »

BTW: IF you don't have the key that fits, you could just short the wire, do the programming and then un-short the wire.

Mark

phillip canuck (original poster)
Posts: 456
Joined: 15 years ago

#57: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

Well, my Gaggia Achille is awaiting parts, and that means I've dusted off my Pavoni, which means that a lot of work has been completed on the T1.

A word of warning: the pipe below (lower HX to flow meters) must be inserted before the boiler is mounted. I learnt this lesson the long way - it was not fun to disassemble all those pipes, and then assemble all those pipes, again.

Questions: Do I have labelled properly the pipes below? The drain pipe sticking up toward the boiler is a flexible hose coming from the group solenoid and the part of the pipe opening facing the motor just goes to the sink. Is this correct? Thanks for any help.

-phillip




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mhoy
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#58: Post by mhoy »

Took a look inside my T1 and you have them labeled correctly.

Mark

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cannonfodder
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#59: Post by cannonfodder »

The little stand pipe on the drain line goes to the 3-way exhaust. Your water supply line, you may want to remove that plastic line and compression fitting and just put a braided 3/8 inch hose on it.
Dave Stephens

phillip canuck (original poster)
Posts: 456
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#60: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

Thank you Mark, and Dave. Do either of you have a suggestion for piping from the 3-way solenoid and the drain pipe? There was just a flimsy and grimy rubber hose from the 3-way when I bought her - it looked like surgical tubing.

Secondly, I was given this assembly and I'm wondering if it can be used to properly reduce line pressure on my T1 (as recommended in the A3 HB Review)? It reads SHURflo Water Pressure Reducing Valve, 65psi.