Also, make sure your water tank has sufficient water.
IF the water sensor is functioning ( i.e. you have not moved or removed) the orange light will go off, Strega stop functioning if you have insufficient water.
Happened to me when I first got my Strega a year ago. I let the water level get too low.
To avoid stale water I do not fill the tank up completely unless I know I will pull many drinks in an evening..
Now I always check, the tank (I presume you are not plumbed in() and add water. before turning on my Strega

Thank you very much radudanutco for the photos and info. Hadn't realized that the tank can just be pulled out with a bit of force . Makes cleaning it a lot easier. To me it looked like it was screwed in. Well, under these circumstances taking off the top cover is no big deal. Had a look at the wiring. Looks like it should be possible to install the PID without taking off the side panels. There is good access to the mains switch and the grouphead thermostat. I'm going to combine the PID and 5A SSR in a medium box stuck to the bottom of the machine, so will just have to get the wires through the little holes at the bottom in the chassis. There is good info on the actual wiring here on HB. Thanks for that! Not quite sure, what typ of wire to use. Erics recommended 16 gauge wire, but I was hoping to be able to use finer wire (about the thickness of the grouphead-heater wire). The PID has a power consumption of less the 2 Watt. Silicon-coated wire is hopefully heat-resistant enough (200 C).

Billys79 wrote:Sometimes when i pull the lever down the orange lamp turns off

The "tank-is-empty" sensor is going off wrongly. There are two screws, one on each side of the tank, that seat into two tabs, like a battery in a small device. These are very prone to poor connections; and if there is no continuity through the screws and the water, the machine goes off.

Usually just lifting the lid and jiggling the tank works. If it gets to be a regular thing, you can defeat the sensor by running a wire across the tabs.

Personally, I think this is a very bad balance of safety versus reliability. Safety devices should be ultra-reliable; otherwise they are ignored or removed.

Thank you all for your answers.I hope i will fix this easilly.

Jim i checked what you said and it was right.Its the water tank.If i put bigger screws can i fix it?

I never tried that; sounds like a good idea.

ravco wrote:...so will just have to get the wires through the little holes at the bottom in the chassis. There is good info on the actual wiring here on HB. Thanks for that!

the corner (actually, a tab provided) of the baseplate beneath, can be bent leaving quite a hole:
The Super Strega: Modifying preinfusion pressures and other functional improvements

anyway, I could not use that hole, as the shortest path for pressure gauge capilary was in the opposite corner;

Do you guys have any suggestions where I can look for a vacuum relief valve with threads?
Shipping from the USA is too expensive since I am in Moscow, not to mention that there are only few valves I have actually found online (ebay, aliexpress, 1st line or chris coffee).
I checked at the local sanitary engineering market, unfortunately what they have is too long (about 10-11 cm) and does not fit inside. By they way this thing is called aqua stop here and it is constructed from different parts (fittings and the valve itself).

For flaky contacts, could try a contact enhancer commonly used for electronic connections:
Stabilant 22 (Tweek):
http://www.amazon.com/Stabilant-5ml-Kit ... B001E50GQS
The stuff is a block copolymer that only conducts electricity in the presence of a local electrical field. It's pricey, but a little bit goes a long way and the stuff really works. Haven't needed to treat my Strega with it yet.....

radudanutco wrote:the corner (actually, a tab provided) of the baseplate beneath, can be bent leaving quite a hole

Good tip. Will see if it works. Thanks!