I have a Vetrano plumbed in with a pressure regulator inline. The regulator is set at 25 psi. My line pressure reading with the machine off and the lever in the off position is around 5.5 bar, and a deadhead pressure of 1.5 bar. Now I understand the deadhead reading but not the 5.5 bar reading. When the machine is running, the 9 bar brew pressure I have set is rock solid so I suspect the regulator is doing it's job. Also these readings are taken from the Vetrano's gauge. Can someone explain to me the difference between these two readings.

Thanks,

Nick

To be sure I am clear, you read 1.5 bar when you open the lever halfway..... is that correct? Or at the initiation of a shot?

5.5 bar may be caused by pressure build up from the overheated water in the heat exchanger at idle. I need to learn this E-61 stuff though, I don't have one.

The machine is off, no power. The 1.5 bar reading is with a blind filter in place and the lever in the brew position (deadhead). The lever is then closed the blind filter removed and after a few seconds the pressure will rise to 5.5 bar, the machine still off, no power.

Nick

For Nick:

Certainly the 1.5 Bar corresponds to where your pressure regulator is set, i.e. 1.5 bar = 21.8 psi which is within the range of gage error/reading error of 25 psi.

The 5.5 Bar pressure corresponds to the pressure in your "house water system" upstream of the pressure regulator. Unlike air pressure regulators, which have a bleed system to maintain downstream pressure, water pressure regulators have NOWHERE to dump excess pressure when the system downstream of the regulator is completely closed off. Therefore the pressure will rise to that of the unregulated side but, of course, almost instantly head down to the regulated value once flow is established.

Your 5.5 bar "house system" pressure is certainly normal but a little on the high side, i.e. 5.5 bar = 79.8 psi. Most plumbing firms will recommend 50 psi and, BTW, this would substantially lower your water bill, extend the life of all plumbing fixtures in your home, and make the job of that 25 psi regulator that much easier.

Eric S.

And, er, Jeff, I think its time

Thank you for the response and answer to my question. I had thought that was the case but wanted to be sure. So to lower my mains pressure, a whole house pressure reguator at the supply line would be needed. Any ideas on what type, brand and size that would be appropriate?

With mains pressure that high, I am afraid it will overwhelm the seals and seats of the E-61 and solenoid valve. A water leak would really ruin my day.

Thanks again for you response.

Nick

Having reread your post, I would assume that even a pressure regulator at the main line of the house would operate the same way. That is to say, when there is no water running in the house, the water pressure would rise to the pressure existing before the regulator.

If this assumption is correct, then the plumbing is always exposed to the original water pressure until water is turned on in the house.

Nick

Hi Nick -

Certainly a whole house pressure regulator is a good idea and, while everybody's skill/pocketbook levels are different, it should really be installed by a registered plumber. Here is a good source.

In addition (and I'm not good at this) there is plenty of info on this site (HB) re water pressure regulation. Watts is a very reputable mfg.

As far as a whole house pressure regulator behaving differently than the 25 psi regulator, your question is a good one and I believe it is answered by the control capabilities of the regulating valve and the conditions under which the regulating valve is set on the production line. I believe they are adjusted with a nominal flow (midway) to maintain 50 psi. Anything less than this flow, the pressure will rise a few psi and any flow higher than this will lower the pressure a few psi. This is to maintain stability within the pressure regulation mechanism and is called "droop".

Inexpensive regulators do not have this capability but DO perform their intended function when any flow is present.

Eric S.