La Cimbali m20 Classic / C3 - rebuild

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
nickvonb
Posts: 3
Joined: 9 years ago

#1: Post by nickvonb »

Hi Guys,

After having tinkered around with automatic coffee machines (bean to cup) for the office and finally having "moved up" in the espresso world by finding myself a La Pavoni Europiccola for home a couple of years ago...I managed to score a La Cimbali M20 Classic -3 group head from a client (who didn't have all the funds to pay us and traded this in return..)

I will be uploading pics soon (tomorrow) of its current state, however after having browsed the amazing amount of information available on Home-Barista.com it is evident that before I do any work on this machine, I need to plug it in and give it a test run !

Forgive my silly questions here and there...and thank you for any advice you can offer!

Ok - so here's the current state of affairs:

1. Machine was unplugged from restaurant in which it was operating - in working condition - stood in storage for 1 year (no frost issues here in South Africa)
2. I received machine - and at first glance everything is where it needs to be and functional.
3. Machine is filthy - covered in oily residue and grit (especially on inside)
4. Wires to boiler have cracks etc - but not touching and i guess could be operational...not safe.
5. We have 220V supply here - machine can be wired up either 220 or 380V (we have both at our offices where ultimately i would like to install it.)
6. The machine has brass/copper (?) panels which are quite badly tarnished..
7. I received a huge brass dome with a big eagle on it - steam wands and gauges - but this seems to be all "ornamental"

Judging by its current state - the machine needs a rebuild both cosmetically and hygienically - I plan to test it - strip it - clean and de-scale - replace all perishables and wiring - spit & polish and voila (sounds so easy...)

So far I have connected the water (hosepipe in garage situation) - used the manual lever to fill the boiler - Site glass is 3/4 full - then plugged in and turned it on.

Questions I have so far:

1. Machine is currently wired for single phase / 220V - tried running of extension cord (cord got to hot and I switched off) - ran of wall socket and trip the mains breaker after about 10 mins ? Is this an amps problem in a home setup or something not healthy in the wiring ?

2. The power on knob/switch on the machine has 3 positions - Off / "something else" / On - Only on the third setting does the light come on and boiler start heating - is this correct and what is the second stop for?

3. When switching on the individual group heads - I hear a buzzing sound (which I think is correct) and water comes out of the grouphead - however (forgive my silly question here..) the "large" pump at the back does not come on? What is this pump for? I have a suspicion this is to fill the boiler - but as I manually have filled it it wont switch on? Or is this a pressure related item, whereby the pump only comes on once the boiler is pressurized?

4. Apart from the heating / above pump / etc what other tests should I conduct in order to compile its "health report" prior to stripping?

5. Last question for today - Where do you recommend getting manuals (operators) as well as wiring diagrams & exploded views etc from ? I can find for M30 etc but not for the M20 classic?

Thanks guys and pics tomorrow!

Ciao!

nickvonb (original poster)
Posts: 3
Joined: 9 years ago

#2: Post by nickvonb (original poster) »

Below some pics during testing and strip down...
More to follow...

on a good note - Tested and all is/was working prior to stripdown.. :o

Couple of things I already noticed:

1. HX on first group is smaller then the two on group 2 & 3 ? Is this an issue / is this standard?
2. Sightglass - the white backpanel is badly tarnished and rusted - however the brass fittings seem to be attached with a blind rivit of some sorts - how is this removed ?
3. The rotary pump gets quite hot - is this normal ?
4. All the nuts on the boiler side came off like they were never tightened - additionally the element had no gasket but didnt leak ? (weird..)
5. Boiler is baaaaad on the inside!









nickvonb (original poster)
Posts: 3
Joined: 9 years ago

#3: Post by nickvonb (original poster) »

Hi Guys,

Update 3 - completed the stripping except for the groupheads & some smaller parts...
Order all perishables & others -through a combination of : espressoparts - Cafeparts - and ferrari espresso UK...
quite a list...expensive too but it does include everything including accessories for the office set-up

Below some more pics during the stripping and initial cleaning.
Frame has been pressure washed and ready for sandblast and paint/powder coat
(* on that topic - everyone recommends powder coating for obvious reasons - however I was thinking of getting my excellent car guy to spray rather with a high gloss automotive primer and 2K paint with heavy clear coat to get that "Chinese lacquer" finish? what you think - can it take the heat? I mean it is baked in an oven as well kind off?)

Boiler & Parts soaking in Citric Acid (not so easy to find in South Africa - Special order through chemist) - Solution 20g/Litre (was hot - now cold 24h later)

Lastly - the last pic of the side panels - how would one suggest I start on polishing these up ? In anyone's experience is there a clear-coat?
I somehow doubt it judging by the tarnish spots all over the panels ?

Look forward to anyone who can assist with any of my questions :D