Hoping someone out there knows some ways around these:

Issue #1: Powered on the machine for the first time yesterday, went smoothly. Brew boiler filled with the switch in the fill position, but the Steam Boiler did nothing... Am I crazy? Shouldn't the fill position energize the solenoid to fill the steam boiler also? (Manual button worked, and I filled it that way) Why no autofill??

Issue #2: Leaking Sight Glass. When I purchased the machine the glass was smashed, I replaced it and the gasket. I also ordered the o-ring, but the o-ring seems to be an 1/8" too large, it doesn't sit where I would expect it to sit. Has anyone replaced theirs, that could point steer me in the right direction as to where that o-ring sits. Because it's obviously not sealing without it.

Issue #3: (THIS IS VERY SAD AND POSSIBLY THE END OF THE REBUILD) There was a faint leak coming from the left group to boiler junction, as it was heating up. So I got in there and tightened up the nuts, connecting the group head to the boiler. Got to #3 (clockwise starting with upper left hand corner) and snapped the bolt off.
Short of replacing the entire boiler, is there anything I can do to fix it? or anything I can do to stop the leak, such as a sealant on the silicone gasket?

So close.... yet so f*cking far....

(on the plus side, everything else works perfectly, PID started right up and heated the boiler, all the other controls work great, all small leaks are cleaned up, that is satisfaction in its own, just not enough)

issue 1: the brew boiler should be filling anytime there is incoming mains pressure. for the steam auto-fill do you hear the solenoid click? can you measure the voltage going to it to make sure it kicks on? Also I believe that solenoid has a specific orientation and is "1-way"

issue 2: I'm not sure, but I would contact the part supplier - maybe it's the wrong part?

issue 3: this is bad, maybe there is a way to just weld the whole group to the boiler?

godlyone wrote:issue 1: the brew boiler should be filling anytime there is incoming mains pressure. for the steam auto-fill do you hear the solenoid click? can you measure the voltage going to it to make sure it kicks on? Also I believe that solenoid has a specific orientation and is "1-way"

issue 2: I'm not sure, but I would contact the part supplier - maybe it's the wrong part?

issue 3: this is bad, maybe there is a way to just weld the whole group to the boiler?

1: No click when the on\off button is in the fill position, though I did realize the valve was reversed, but even after fixing that, nothing happened. The manual fill button on the machine works fine though, so I'm assuming it has something to do with the Brain. I think at one point I remember reading you can "jump" some pins to turn autofill on or off or something like that, but I gotta dig more.

2: I send an email to EP. The O-ring is large enough to go over the entire Chrome ring, when it should nestle in behind the Glass, and in front of the Brass fitting. (I think)

3: I THINK the bolts are silver soldered on... But I'm not 100% sure. I have a really good welder friend, just hoping someone has had a similar issue and may be able to help with other ideas. I'm at a loss, I'm 100% running, and appearing to run well, but these issues are killing me.

I thought I was a patient guy, but this machine may have proven me wrong, haha. "Live and Learn"

Regarding the snapped stud; just to confirm; is your boiler the one with studs welded to the boiler and nuts tightening down, or the earlier design with bolts that go through the group and the boiler to tighten onto nuts inside the boiler? If the first you may, as you say be able to get your welder friend to repair the stud. If the second, replace the bolt and nut.

I looked into the possibility of silver soldering the group to the boiler. It would have to be silver soldering or something like that rather than welding because you will be joining brass to stainless steel. I spoke to a welder who thought it would be possible, but it is quite a ticklish job.

NickA wrote:Regarding the snapped stud; just to confirm; is your boiler the one with studs welded to the boiler and nuts tightening down, or the earlier design with bolts that go through the group and the boiler to tighten onto nuts inside the boiler? If the first you may, as you say be able to get your welder friend to repair the stud. If the second, replace the bolt and nut.

It's the first, if it was the 2nd I'd probably be happy. I can't tell whether the stud is spot welded, or silver brazed. Does anyone know? Luckily the stud snapped off at the "weld" and not along the threading, so I think I can re-use it. I'm bringing it to the shop this week, and having him look at it, but if I can tell him one way or another, before hand I would prefer too.

Quick response.

Autofill may not be getting power off the board, check there first, then check the coil, and as mentioned earlier, check that the flow direction is proper.

LM site glass bodies are notorious for ovaling out. Best to replace the body as a complete unit. I have chased leaks from those for years..... Gray hair as proof.

The stud, is a common problem. TIG welding is the cure, as that is how they were attached at the factory, but with a stud tool. Just have your welder, TIG around the post, a little bit at a time. If your machine was ever in a hard water or chlorinated water situation, be careful with the heat, as stress fractures WILL occur. Again, if the welder applies heat sparingly, with five or six small tacks instead of a big blast, you will be ok. Also make sure that they understand that the group need to fit against this area.

Good luck, isn't this stuff fun

terryz wrote:Quick response.

Autofill may not be getting power off the board, check there first, then check the coil, and as mentioned earlier, check that the flow direction is proper.

LM site glass bodies are notorious for ovaling out. Best to replace the body as a complete unit. I have chased leaks from those for years..... Gray hair as proof.

The stud, is a common problem. TIG welding is the cure, as that is how they were attached at the factory, but with a stud tool. Just have your welder, TIG around the post, a little bit at a time. If your machine was ever in a hard water or chlorinated water situation, be careful with the heat, as stress fractures WILL occur. Again, if the welder applies heat sparingly, with five or six small tacks instead of a big blast, you will be ok. Also make sure that they understand that the group need to fit against this area.

Good luck, isn't this stuff fun

Terry,

I appreciate your response.

Flow direction is good, as it works when I push the Manual Fill. I would assume the coil is good if the manual fill works, so I'm guessing it's the board. I just had the board refurbished so I'll call up Pat and see if he has any thoughts.

I have to wrestle around with the o-ring a bit more, it just seems oddly too large, but maybe I'm just crazy. If all else fails, I'll just have to bite the bullet and buy a new assembly...

The info on the stud is GREATLY appreciated!! Now I have the info to go back to my welder and see what he can come up with. Unfortunately, I know little of this machines history, so I have no idea what kind of water was used in it. It was only in service 2-3 years tops, and then sat in a basement for 10 years.

I'm so not looking forward to taking the group head back off, but at least there may be a light at the end of the tunnel...

Thanks everyone!

I was wondering if it would be possible to weld the whole group to the boiler... not just the stud?

I think you can. If I remember correctly Barry once told me you could weld those old groups to the boiler to solve the annoying gasket problems. You have to use the correct gasket and tighten the bolts in the proper sequence then pressure test the boiler with an air compressor and gauge before you put the boiler back in the machine. Same way we use to test home plumbing. You put a gauge on one fitting, a compressor fitting on another then pressurise the entire system. Check the gauge in a day and see if it has leaked pressure.