If you do re-weld a stud back to the boiler please re-read Terry Z's post above and tell your welder to use 308L filler rod (the boiler material is 304L). Also if the stud is damaged beyond repair you can use a cut off bolt. Try to find one made from 304 or 316 Stainless steel. You usually find something like "Type 18-8" but spend a bit more for the other. The threads are M8 X 1.25

The Auto fill valve can go in either direction. The proper way is water in at port 1 and water out at port 2. The flow is opposite to the direction of the arrow on the bottom of the valve.

I do not recommend brazing the group to the boiler. Not sure if it could withstand the stress of the operating boiler. Additionally the amount of energy need to heat the group and boiler shell to a temperature to braze the 2 would probably cause some distortion or discoloration to the chrome on the group.

BillC

Randy G. wrote::shock:

I wrote a blues song and the last verse is:
There's a light at the end of the tunnel, but there's one thing I gotta say.
You better hang on to me, Baby, 'cuz it's a truck, and it's headed our way.

Haha, doesn't seem to optimistic if I'm reading that correctly... though I guess Blues aren't usually more optimistic.

cannonfodder wrote:I think you can. If I remember correctly Barry once told me you could weld those old groups to the boiler to solve the annoying gasket problems. You have to use the correct gasket and tighten the bolts in the proper sequence then pressure test the boiler with an air compressor and gauge before you put the boiler back in the machine. Same way we use to test home plumbing. You put a gauge on one fitting, a compressor fitting on another then pressurise the entire system. Check the gauge in a day and see if it has leaked pressure.

godlyone wrote:I was wondering if it would be possible to weld the whole group to the boiler... not just the stud?

I could be wrong because I'm no expert in welding or metal, but isn't the group brass, and the boiler SS. I think this would be brazed at best?

Billc wrote:If you do re-weld a stud back to the boiler please re-read Terry Z's post above and tell your welder to use 308L filler rod (the boiler material is 304L). Also if the stud is damaged beyond repair you can use a cut off bolt. Try to find one made from 304 or 316 Stainless steel. You usually find something like "Type 18-8" but spend a bit more for the other. The threads are M8 X 1.25

The Auto fill valve can go in either direction. The proper way is water in at port 1 and water out at port 2. The flow is opposite to the direction of the arrow on the bottom of the valve.

I do not recommend brazing the group to the boiler. Not sure if it could withstand the stress of the operating boiler. Additionally the amount of energy need to heat the group and boiler shell to a temperature to braze the 2 would probably cause some distortion or discoloration to the chrome on the group.

BillC

Thank you for the added info, I sent that along with Terry's comments to my welder, just waiting to hear back. Luckily the stud is in tact, and it broke the "weld" so it should be easy fix so to speak.

Why in god's name would they put an arrow in reverse direction?? haha. I actually had the arrow pointing away from the boiler, against the flow originally, and I saw it, and ended up swapping it. Guess I'll have to change that again... Is there a reason the arrow is against?

Most 2 way valves are connected to flow from port 1 to port 2. In the case of La Marzocco the fill valve is the same 3 way valve as the brew valves with port "0" capped off. So it is used as a 2 way valve and connected from port 1 to port 2 with flow in the opposite direction to the arrow.
In the case of the brew valve the inlet is connected to port 2 with flow in the direction of the arrow when the valve is energized.

BillC

Billc wrote:Most 2 way valves are connected to flow from port 1 to port 2. In the case of La Marzocco the fill valve is the same 3 way valve as the brew valves with port "0" capped off. So it is used as a 2 way valve and connected from port 1 to port 2 with flow in the opposite direction to the arrow.
In the case of the brew valve the inlet is connected to port 2 with flow in the direction of the arrow when the valve is energized.

BillC

Thank you Bill for explanation, now it makes sense.

Quick update:

Had the stud welded yesterday, the guys did a nice job as usual, I will take a quick photo tonight and post it. I've yet to see a post about welding these studs back on, so hopefully this will help someone in the future if they see this. They made the weld as small as possible, but I may have to file it down a bit as to not obstruct the head, I'll find out tonight.

While taking it apart to have it welded, I of course busted a 1/4" BSP Hex nipple that attaches the flowmeter to the group. 1/4" M BSP X 1/4" M BSP Does anyone know the dimensions of this, and if this McMaster part# 4860K603 can replace? Also does anyone know that the one from EP is Parallel threads and not tapered? I hate to assume BSP is "British Standard Parallel" instead of just "British Standard Pipe" on EP's description. Most places I've seen that call this out differentiate with BSPP (parallel) and BSPT (tapered).

I flipped the solenoid valve to have the arrow facing against the flow, and "made" the O-ring for the sight glass fit. So with any hopes, once I get the parts I'll finally be up and running.